adam-__-

This is what it looks like taken out. This is what your motor looks like once keepers and holder are removed. That's the spring you see. Remove spring, don't forget which one's the bottom end. Both sides removed and you can see the old and dirty valve stem seals. Make sure all your shims, buckets, springs etc are all arranged neatly. They must go back where they came from. Using long nose pliars or valve stem seal pliars, take out your old seals. I had a bit of trouble because it was in so tight and I kept slipping. Old and new valve stem seals side by side (from left to right, old, new). Put a light coat of oil over new seal and place it over the valve stem. Using a deep 10mm socket, push the seal down evenly until a 'click' or 'pop' is heard. Either that or push down till it stops. You don't have to put much force into it. Left side is new seal done, right is still old seal.

Finally.. The valve stem seals have been changed. Was all smooth going until it was time to take out the old seals with the long nose pliars I had. Anyway here are some pictures. I followed the guide I posted above, but hopefully these images I took below will help you understand a little bit more. Alright, pull everything off, timing belt, cam gears, valve covers and everything holding it on (follow 4AGE book for detailed instructions). Pull cam shafts out. Remove a cylinder's shim and buckets (I did it on piston 4). Get your piece of rope which will be put down the cylinder. Using some sort of stick/wire, shove the rope into your spark plug hole. Make sure piston is on bottom dead centre (or near it) before you put rope in. Once it's in, turn crank clock wise until it stops. Get your valve keeper removal tool. Valve keeper installer side. Remover side. Use this to push down onto the valve 'holder' thing. You'll get it out and it'll look like this. Keepers will be sucked in by the tool (magnetised).

Thanks for the comments guys. It's crazy how tight my U-turns are now. It doesn't feel right having the car turn so much. :P Valve stem seals won't be done today, I killed my back last night and can barely move without these sharp pains. :y: I'll take a few photos though, was thinking of doing a set by step guide, but there's really no need. Look below. http://www.aeu86.org/index/engine-diy-4age...4156/post=75407 Currently bidding on a Nardi Classic steering wheel and waiting on bank details of a guy who I hopefully will be getting a fixed back driver seat off.

Cheers mate. Alright, power steering arms are now in. Wasn't as straight forward as I'd hope it would be. Had a little trouble taking the old steering arms off the tie rods. Here's a gif to show you the differences in lock. I purchased the power steering arms for the quicker steering and you can tell there's a difference already. Steering's gone a bit heavier but no big deal. Smallest lock is standard, second is with the lock spacers (URAS slip on items) and the final and most lock is from the power steering arms as well as the lock spacer. The most lock was achieved from the power steering arms, but they set me back $150 compared to the slip ons, $20. You get what you pay for. I've got the valve stem removal tool on Thursday, will be replacing the seals tomorrow hopefully.

This thing's tough as! Looks much better lowered. :D Definitely one of the best looking vans around.

:hmm: If only I had read your comment before watching it!

Quite a few people had issues with the rollers I was talking about. It works for awhile then it would snap. Reweld it then it's good as new and shouldn't break again. :)

It's the 3 rid block as far as I know. And the dyno today, I got... there late. So didn't get a chance for a run. Maybe next time. My new rear shocks have also been installed and so far with normal street driving, I've noticed a little less wheel rubbage. I'm thinking the Sierra's were holding the springs down lower or something. Not too sure. Edit: I've also got droop in my rear suspension now! It's got similar/same amount front and rear (about 80mm). Springs are no longer captive, but it shouldn't be a problem as long as my car's not airborne for 5sec+. :) My power steering arms are expected to arrive on Monday, so hopefully those will be in by Monday night. My gasket set arrived on Thursday also, but I can't start changing the valve stem seals just yet. I need to get my hands on a valve keeper removal/installer tool which I'll be borrowing off a member on Toymods.

Nice write up mate. The guard rollers can be purchased from Bursons. Some states might not have the store, but it's similar to Super Cheap, just more professional. I think they were going for about $150.

Nah, personally not a fan of them at all. Maybe some Hoshino Impul G5s? They look similar to the ones you've chosen.

The conversion from 'drift' setup to 'street' setup has begun. I've just purchased a new pair of shocks for the rears. I ended up getting the Commodore wagon shocks. After quite a bit of research, these were the best option for my rear's ride height and budget. 86 power steering arms have also been purchased, these can be used for the extra lock it provides over the standard arms, but I got them for their quicker steering. And something not related, I also got a gasket set to suit the 4AGE. Time to replace the valve stem seals once and for all. This means I've got a pair of Sierra shocks up for sale and a pair of standard 86 steering arms if anyone's in need of it. My front 8kg 210mm free height springs could also be up for grabs. I'll be attending a dyno day down here in Melbourne and will try and see how much power my car's putting out. ;) Hoping for at least 70 killer wasps or more under the rears wheels. Will keep everyone updated.

SSR (or any other) Mesh wheels. Mesh wheels look good on anything as long as they're the right sizes. The tough look will depend on your offsets. Any car can look good with wide offset wheels (obviously too much and people will think you're a Mexican).

For those prices, they're only the shocks, no struts will be included. These are only standard AE86 replacement shocks as well so they'll will most likely not hold your new lowered springs captive. It'll work better than what you've currently got (except for the front shocks because those are made for the thicker 86 struts) because they're newer, but might as well spend that money towards 'right' shocks. You might've been aware of all this already, but thought I'd let you know to make sure. :yak:

Yeah, pretty much. Probably best to do some research on a particular shock and get part numbers though.

This really depends on the suspension setup in the car. Lowering our cars doesn't do much to camber (if anything at all), but lowering a S13 for example, you'll be changing the camber and I think castor (might've been toe).

I bought my 86 struts with all the hubs, brakes, etc for $260. Only other thing I really needed to make them work in my car were 86 steering arms to suit the strut, $30. It's only the fronts. KE70 rears are the same as AE86s, what shocks/springs they use, you can too. AE86 (as well as AE71 panovan, same thing) struts have many different types of 'short stroke' shocks available. Here's a list of shocks for the 86 strut and *E7*/86 rears: AE86 Body length: 402mm Extended length: 604mm Extended minus Body: 202mm Outside Diameter: 43.5mm AE92: Body length: 336mm Extended length: 500mm Extended minus Body: 164mm Outside Diameter: 43.5mm Celica T/RA63 Body length: 405mm Extended length: 605mm (3dr hatch maybe shorter then this) Extended minus Body: 200mm Outside Diameter: 43.5mm Shaft diameter: 22mm Corolla KE35: Body length: 414mm Extended length: 613mm Extended minus Body: 199mm Outside Diameter: 38mm Corona TT132 Body length: 403mm Extended length: 600mm Extended minus Body: 197mm Outside Diameter: 43.5mm Tokico HTS Body length: 332mm Extended length: 476mm Extended minus Body: 144mm Outside Diameter: 43.5mm Rear Shocks Dimensions: AE86 Extended Length: 560mm Closed Length: 335mm AW11 S/C Body length: 345mm Outside Diameter: 43.5mm Peugeot 505 Extended length: 420mm Extended minus Body: 270mm Twin Tube Rating (344004): 1900/600 Toyota Cressida/Mark II GX70 Station Wagon Dimensions unknown but good for AE86 rear shock, sim to Peugeot above, maybe stiffer Hilux (front shock) Extended length: 420mm KYB Heavy Duty Gas Rating (KG5437): 3100/1000 Mazda RX-7 Gen 1 Extended Length: 540mm Closed Length: 323mm Celica T/RA63 Extended Length: 620mm Closed Length: 320mm '82 Camaro (16" wheels) Extended Length: 486mm Closed Length: 309mm Tokico HTS Extended Length: 455mm Closed Length: 307.5mm Shocks from heavier cars are used because they have higher rebound and damper rates, it's sometimes enough to control the 6kg or higher springs we run. Edit: That list of shocks are shocks which fit into our cars and are short stroke. Up to you which shock you want to run really, it all depends on your springs.

'Keeping KE70 struts and just throwing in some new shocks.' With that idea, I don't see anything wrong with it as long as you find some that fit into the standard strut and are short enough as well as stiff enough for your new lowered springs. This is a bit difficult that's why most upgrade to the 86 struts, more shock absorber availability. 'Cut springs with new shocks.' I personally don't see a problem with cut springs as long as they're captive. Many people will say that the heat created while cutting the spring will weaken the material (which is true to some extent) and might be of some danger. I'm yet to see or read of anyone who has suffered from springs which have 'snapped' or something similar because of cut springs. Edit: I'd like to add that lowered 'proper' springs with no short shock installed is no different to cut springs with no shocks (except for that weakening thing). 'Changing other things when changing shocks and springs.' Just replacing standard items with standard items, I don't see a need to change anything else except for a wheel alignment. But when you change springs/shocks to lower/higher ones, you'll be changing the car's roll centre. Roll centre adjusters should be used as well as other things I don't know ( :yak: ). There's a stickied thread explaining what get effected when changing suspension components in the General Mechanical area. Edit: This thread, http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=21133 I'm obviously no expert in the suspensions area. What I've written is just what I've read and learnt.

Real common issue this one. I can confidently say that it's the fuel sender's fault. The contact patch has most probably rusted and is no longer giving a signal. Mine was a little different, once the fuel got above half full, the contact 'thing' lost contact with the 'thing' it's supposed to be contacted with. ahaha. I've got no idea what it's called, I'll try to find a thread which explains it a little better. Edit: Have a read of this thread, http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=22181 I think he might have the same issue as you.

Bloody clean indeed. I noticed you're after some suspension ideas for your ke. I'm not too sure how much you're wanting to spend, but seeing that you want to drift this thing, I would recommend converting AE86 struts up front. Not only will you have a larger range of shocks available to you, you'll also get larger brakes (slightly if you get the Aussie model ones, but vented if you get the 'JDM' ones). So up front you have 86 gear, you want it lower than stock so you'll need new springs, the common rates are 8kg/mm or 6kg/mm. Shocks, you'll need some sort of 'short strokes'. I've seen people put AE92, SW20 and Celica shock inserts into the 86 strut. The choice of shocks will depend on what springs you'll be getting. Rears are easy because 86 rears and KE70 rears are the same. Whatever shocks that get used in 86s can be used in the KE. Common spring rates for the rears are 4kg or 6kg. You'll need some sort of short stroke shocks out back too. Some people use Suzuki Sierra shocks (I'm running these and I personally find it a little too short), Commodore shocks and other TRD shocks. It's important to get new shocks with your lowered springs, without them, your springs can 'fall out'. I think I should stop now.. There's plenty of information out there. Do your research and go from there. Also don't just buy something because others are doing it, learn from my mistake. hahaha. I'm redoing my suspension bits because I bought bits others (with no idea) were recommending it. You live and learn. haha All the best with it. Edit: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=21133 Good thread to read.

Car looks clean as. From the photos, I don't see anything wrong with the paint at all. A nice clean and polish, it should look even better. You've picked up a better deal than I have! I purchased my car in a pretty clean state (similar to yours minus clear coat :y: ) for $500 as well, but it had about a weeks or 2 rego left on it. That, and I've only got the CS model, no air or tacho dash. MA61 wheels aren't too bad for their price. Decent widths and offsets on them. I can't really think of anything better for their price.

I have always wondered what was going on there! Thought it might've been hire cars, but never had a chance to drop by and suss it out.

My locked diff has been removed! ;) Some/most people would probably call me a pussy for taking it out, but I got over it. I don't really slide this thing much/at all, it makes bullshit noises, hops when taking a turn and has killed tyres I just purchased recently. Only advantage I saw was that I didn't get stuck on driveways when one of my wheels lift off the ground. Disadvantages outweighed the advantages so out it went. Next thing to be removed/replaced is the Sierra shocks. I need some droop so that my wheels stay on the ground when going into driveways. :) I'll be purchasing some Commodore wagon shock next I think. Might even down grade spring rates all round, not sure yet. The last mountain drive I did, the car seemed to hop around quite a bit, but I think the locker had a factor in it. Will give another drive and decide from there I guess.. Oh I'll also be purchasing some 86 power steering arms, not so much for the extra steering lock, but for the steering speed. Car's now aimed at a more comfortable daily hills drive type car. Don't know why I had it setup for drift to be honest, wasn't really ever into it. :y:

Thanks, Jamie. The car doesn't go too bad at all. Definitely enough power to have some fun in. The tyre rubbing is annoying, but you get over it and you don't really notice it much. I guess it's similar to driving with a locked diff. At first it's frustrating to drive, but then you get used to it. There's been a few times where I just wanted to sell the wheels off though. Just get something a little less aggressive and something that doesn't rub. haha.

My 15x7 +5s have 30mm until it touches the strut. The 8" +10s will sit in a further ~18mm, so these will fit fine with the strut, but it might rub on the inside at full lock. The 9" +23 won't fit at all. The inside clearance for these wheels compared to my wheels will be 43.4mm closer (or towards and through) the strut. My rears with the 15x7.5 -8 have 65mm+ clearance until it touches my shock. So those 9" +23s should fit as well. These measurements around all from the wheel, not tyres.

Outside clearance will be fine with a little flare. I'm running 15x7.5 -8mm offset which is about 12mm more aggressive than the 8 +10s. Inside clearance at the back should clear, front's I think you'll run into some trouble. I'm running AE86 struts and my 15x7 +5s have about 30-50mm clearance (I think). I'll do some measurements for you this afternoon and will let you know if those wheels will clear.