adam-__-

I believe that's a good idea. This will push the steering arm down into the bolt which will hold it when you go to tighten it up. I had the same problem on my car. Instead of using the technique quoted above, I just used a shifter, opened it up so that it was slightly wider than the bolt, put it on the steering arm (kind of around the bolt) and just give it a light hit with the hammer. I've got no idea if that made sense to you guys. I'll try to get a nice little drawing on MS paint in a minute. But try that other technique first, sounds a little better than my way. haha Edit: Here we go.. hope it makes a little more sense now. Does the same thing as putting strut back in and using jack to push lower control arm up.

You need lower offset wheels. I'm running 15x7s wearing some 195/50 RE001s and it's fine. This is with AE86 power steering arms and some URAS slip on lock spacers EDIT: I should also mention that I'm running XT130 lower control arms as well. There are some photos in my thread comparing each modification's lock. The first modification to your 26 year old (there abouts anyway) suspension would be to get new bushes all round. I haven't done this myself, but just saying.. :hmm:

With $5k, you should be able to build a *E7* with a 4AGE and decent suspension all round (AE86 struts, brakes, etc). You could actually have a little left over to spend on the motor. It'll definitely be enough to get you drifting, but won't compare to a S13 I wouldn't think.

Undoing the shock nut is easy. For next time, before you jack the car up or anything like that, undo the nut while it's in the car. I've heard of people saying the shaft still spins, but I've done it many times with success. Just take out struts like normal once you've undone the nut. Springs, top hat etc should all just come falling out. Try it next time, much easier than using vice grips. Putting longer than shock springs back in is a problem though, I've always used a spring compressor. Taking steering arms off, I've always found it easiest to take the whole lower control arm off ( :) ). Once it's out, get two bricks, rest each side of the steering arm on a brick, bolt the nut back on about 5 screws, get a hammer and smash it a few times. The lower control arm should just fall down and you're left with the steering arm sitting on the bricks. Hope that made sense to you all. :P

I remember reading Queen20v's thread about this car, it's so overrated! What you've done to it so far looks great mate. Cheers

Ahahah it's pretty bad with the open wheeler man. But I'm not gonna go back to the locker, over it. I was thinking it might have some higher compression pistons, small port maybe? I wouldn't think the head was shaved... any way to tell without pulling head off? :P This is the only few pictures I've got of the pistons. Not the best pictures at all, but it's all I've got. They measured out to have a 81mm bore so I don't know.. :) I'm currently looking into cams. Just what duration, lift etc would suit me most. I'm wanting a good street cam and to run with stock ECU. Was thinking 256 degree duration for intake with about 8.0-8.5mm lift and 264 degrees for exhaust, unsure of what lift I should run on this side, but probably 7.9mm or something. Could go the other way around, larger duration on intake and smaller on exhaust because I've got a after market, higher flowing exhaust/extractors, already so shouldn't be any need to have longer duration cams on that side. Probably do a little more reading and saving.. Edit: I just want more torque and a good, useful power curve while still maintaining standard 7,800rpm rev limit.

The day after I got my panhard rod modified, my hub rings turned up. $22 or so, no noticeable difference in the ride, but it's good to know the car's weight is now resting on the hub instead of on the 26 year old wheel studs. And today I did another compression test on the motor, this time with the throttle wide open and another car battery helping the starter motor turn the engine. I got 215-220 across all cylinders. :P Very happy with those numbers, but it seems a little too high for a standard big port. I really need to get my hands on another tester to make sure these numbers are accurate. The last time I did the test I got ~200psi in all four, but I think it was the same as this time, it's just that I wasn't reading the meter properly. When I purchased the motor, the previous owner said the motor was rebuilt with 40thou over sized pistons, but when I changed the head gasket and measured the bore, it was only 81mm (82mm if it really was oversized). So what does this mean? I've got higher compression than standard (according to those two tests), but it has standard sized pistons and standard head gasket? I'm happy either way, but I just don't understand.

Nah, that's a good size. Depends what look you're after. Out back, just roll the guards flat and depending on tyre sizes that should be enough. They'll fit up front pretty well, just remove the splash guards.

Today I got my standard panhard rod modified into an adjustable item. Thanks to Sam_Q who did the modification for me.

Hey! Didn't realise you were on the forums. Nah I didn't man. It's seemed to have gone away though, I'm thinking it wasn't in the seat properly or something. I'm glad I didn't have to pull suspension gear out for the 4th day in a row. hahaha :P

Yeah, I'm really happy with the motor. Here's a photo from the night. I'm still waiting on the seat to arrive. It's taking ages.

Ahh so he finally sold this car. I remember seeing a build thread of it somewhere and it looks tough as. I will start packing the shocks up and ready for postage for you mate.

And I love that it's in my driveway. :dance: Alright, first off the 8kg springs have GONE!!... back into my car. I personally felt that the 8kg weren't too stiff at all, but a few days ago felt like downgrading to 6kg just to see how much of a difference it really was. I couldn't really be bothered searching and waiting for something to come up so I've decided to keep them in the car. The rear springs I've got out back work out to be about 6kg as well so I'll be keeping the 8/6 ratio. Secondly, I've purchased new tyres! Just a pair of 195/50 RE001's for the front wheels. It's the first time purchasing new quality tyres for this car and it's amazing the amount of grip and stability it gives me. Just driving it around town there's a huge difference to what I had. I'm asking myself why I didn't invest in good tyres sooner. People always telling me, but never listened. hahaha Thirdly, I went to the DrDrift Bushfire Appeal dyno night last night. My standard big port 4AGE with TRD copy extractors and pod pushed out 72.6rwkw. I'm happy with that figure, glad I broke the 70kw bracket. Graph below, Shocks look to be sold at the moment, just waiting for money to be deposited into my account.

I got bored today so I pulled my front 8kg springs out and reinstalled my lower '8kg' springs. It's now tucking tyre and feels like shit to drive compared to the real 8kg springs. Feels really sloppy. This is how it looks like now. These photos were taken by that stuffed screen camera and it looks a little blurry for some reason. 8kg springs and Sierra shocks are for sale! Buy buy! Own a bit of this car's history.. :)

SSR Mesh. Formula mesh has step in lip. Reverse mesh has flat lip. YahooAuctions Japan is your friend..

Wow, definitely a nice collection of cars you've got there. I think there's only 3 of those AE70 over here in Australia. And I've never seen a K50 behind a 4AGE either. I feel like moving to NZ sometimes. haha :yes:

Cheers man. Yeah the dodgyness from my guards are mainly from the pliars I used. Just got pissed at it at one stage cutting through my tyres so I just grabbed the pliars to push everything down. Regret doing it, but what can you do...

Ah it'll fit. http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showto...entry1348 XT130, AE86 and T18 steering arms are all interchangeable. It's just the lengths that are different. :D

Those T18 struts you just bought, are they series 1 or 2 struts? If series 2, yeah no problems with using 86 power steering arms, but if it's the series 1, I don't think they fit? :D Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I got them off a member on AE86DC. He was parting out his car so..

Normal pricing for rolling guards start from $45 and up, flaring prices start from $60 and up per guard. It really depends who you go to. Most panel beaters should be able to do this for you. Or you could do it yourself. Bursons sell guard rollers for $150 or something like that. If that seems a little too expensive, just use a pole. Youtube 'guard rolling' up and there will be a few videos showing you how a pole can be used to roll/flare your guards. It's dodgy, but like most other KE70 owners, we don't normally care what our guards look like (I didn't, but I do now :D ).

Hrmm after reading your replies, I'm starting to think I should've done a proper write up. There's already some around, but instead of people linking to other forums, if I had written one up, people would link to rollaclub? More people on rollaclub=more money? :cool: I'll see what I can do... Putting cams all back was a piece of cake (following the guide in the 4AGE manual). The first time I had the head off/apart I had a bit of trouble getting the timing right because I don't have the timing belt casing which has the markings on it, but yeah I've learnt how to get the timing right without one. Dizzy was just marked and put back to its original position. Plans for it now is to just install the seat I've got coming, new tyres and then probably a new steering wheel. :P

Dizzy seals have been replaced. Wasn't too hard to change. Only had trouble unscrewing the two screws inside the dizzy to take out the shaft and drilling out the pin to remove the gear. Apart from that, a pretty easy replacement and I saved $100. :P Guide to replace seals are in the links below. First link is for big port dizzy and second is for small port. http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=8286 http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopic=21555 The part numbers for the two seals are 'TC12379VI' and 'BS217' from CBC Bearings. Set me back $6 altogether.

Bahahaha yeah, a pinky had a blood blister the other got a massive cut while trying to yank the old valve stem seals out. I've had my Hepatitis B and C shots so hopefully the rust doesn't kill me. :2thumbs: I forgot to mention that I got out bidded on the Nardi and the fixed back seat has been paid for. :cool: Edit: New seals will be put into my leaking dizzy tomorrow. It's leaking like a bitch.

Both done. Keepers and holder when all apart. Put spring back in the way it came out, place keepers into holder like one of the pictures above and place of spring making sure you don't drop anything. Dropping a keeper down the head could be a major problem (ripping head off then searching for it in the sump). Push down with your tool. It's only standard springs, but a lot of force is still needed. It should then look like the way it was. If only one keeper went in properly, make sure you use the tool to remove it then install again with them both out. If it goes in dodgy, take out again. Photos where taken with a camera which had a broken screen so sorry for dodgy photos. I could've made a more detailed 'write up' but there's already a few out there. Changing valve stem seals isn't a hard job if you've got some mechanical knowledge. It would've been a lot harder without the valve keeper removal tool and I would recommend getting the valve stem seal pliars cause the long nose pliars where shit. :cool: I've gone for a drive and so far so good. Feels bit better (performance wise), but it could've been the new, thinner oil I just did the oil change with or the change of valve clearances (it's a good time to do valve clearance check and fix them where you can).