Budowski

opps haha yeh sorry i was thinking of my ke20. i had resprayed the ke25 a long time ago while i still had the ke20 and was thinking of the badge on the 20.

id be more worried about the noisy when trying to sleep bit "drowsy drivers die sign"

hey pretty sure the KE55 is mostly bosch anyway. Oh and i have a very nice matching pair of ke30 front seats if your interested

ill throw in some help/time too, not sure if any of my parts will help all 3k stuff. I have a good head here too but i think its 3k if there is any difference.

my ke25 had a ami badge on the front guards i think

WOW! your selling ? yes i agree very unfortunate and you wanted to buy my car a few times. the trick with a restoration or modification is to stop messing around with the lil shiny bolt on bits and do the real stuff like acid bath car, sand blast and body repair, then complete engine over haul ect ect. water in the oil will most likely require head weld then shave and a valve regrind gasket set, prolly se ya back 400 all up. you could just park it for 6 months spray some fish oil around rust and edges and see how your finances go.

anyone else interested in coming ? gave the seca a nice long run today making a list of things that need attention.

anyone manage to grab a pic on their phone or something this thing sounds clean

hey nice lowering job how did you get the whale unbeached LOL btw what rims are those and size, performance superlites ?

just a quick one there is a wiring loom that runs down the fire wall under the drivers left foot, mine rubbed throught the carpet and then the wiring insulation and lights flickering on dash and starter motor now and then not working ect reinsulated all ok now

sweet thanks for the info dude your a legend. ill mark it on the calender.

looks like 2 olds skool mags mated and had babies

send pics of the flames this sounds cool :bash:

Ive had to use the engine flush treatment at just about every dealer ive worked for. One of the dealers stopped using it after 3 engine failures on the road test after the flush. The current dealer I'm at doesnt push it but its on a sign out the front and the customers asks for it very rarely. I had the bottem end of a charade die on me after a flush at yet another dealer, in this case the foremans daughter neglected to have the oil changed for more than 40,000km and when we went to adjust the valves they were hadly recogniseable due to carbon build up and sludge. So the forman insisted that we run engine flush through it. All the piston bearings let go i think it was the carbon was holding then together. I could go on about what we did on the cheap to fix this but might be another 100 lines lol. At the end of the day the damage was done by the neglect of the customer not getting regular service work but the extra damage caused by the flush in some cases was unreapairable. I had a triton deisel that was completely sludged but always had regular service. But at 250,000km a deisel builds up alot of crap so i recommended sump off rocker cover off kero and brush. The sludge in the sump was so thick after an oil change it still covered the oil pick up. I advised that a re ring and bearings may be an option if this doesnt go well but it went well took 4 hours to clean from strip down to double flush of oil and 2 filters after woods and regular oil changes every 5000km. The car has managed to clock up to 290,000km and the customer says for some reason it has alot more power now. haha i wonder why :bash: Oh one more, honda engines have fine tolerances so an engine flush can be devistating, ive seen camshafts bind up and snap in these. Due to the oil being so thin during a flush that it did not protect the cam support housing contact to the cam shaft and that was at 60,000 km oil change every 5000km and a flush treatment everytime.

hey if considering paintball my mates have been to this place 3 times http://www.skirmishwargames.com.au/ and myself once, plus ill be going in sept alot cheaper than "paint ball sports" currently run by the SA police.

west tce in the city :D

Most oils have a detergency property in them which is at such a low level it wont harm the engine but enough to clean at the same time. I would recomend steering clear of all engine flush treatments especially in older engines. For a good reason, example - carbon deposit dislodged and blocks off oil flow to upper cylinder cam housing and grind grind snap BANG! or crank bearings but you get the point. My 2nd recommendation is get the engine upto normal temperature and drain the oil, do not remove the filter. fill the engine to the correct level again and run the engine as previously described. Then drain the oil again and remove and fit a new oil filter. also use quality recommended oil for your engine There are other options too depending on why or how bad your engine is sludged this would include kero, sump off and rocker cover off. And the flush proceedure afterwards as described above.

i have recently changed jobs I'm now working back at CMI toyota where i once did my apprenticeship. they are currently using bulk Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 in all vehicles even diesel.

i had 4 into 1 extractors in my Ke30 and fitted them to a ke70 so i guess the reverse works

good to see you got it running was a good read to get the mind going :S

these look like discontinued speedy or CSA rims sold mostly in the 80's maybe flick through some old street machine mags to find the previous supplier or even a dragway brand ?

i have a K50 i think it came from a ke30-55 style wagon i shifted from 5th to 4th and snaped the selector for that gear set just needs another selector and all good but i can't be stuffed messing with it would you be interested in it ?

my ke20 had vibrations throught steering, from steering Idlers arm and steering box arm and i stripped 3rd grear completely that caused a bad vibration :S

Yeh ive signed up waiting for it to go through. I once worked with the guys who run VMAX but its been a few years since ive seem em.

LOL! stalker ...... whats she look like