Budowski

If burning a little cash to have something unique then why not sounds great, id love to see it done and running. And you said yourself your not really after much power but id say it would make more power than a stock 4AGE (in agreement) I was going to do this myself a few years back but started playing with AE71's and sold the turbo and webber ect. Maybe ill turbo the ke25 if i see a good quility setup done.

Are ya planning on having the guy come to the house or get it towed to a workshop ? Id say between 180-250 for complete clutch kit might be even cheaper beena while since i bought a clutch. Flywheel machine is a must and depending on the hourly rate ull need to get a quote.

you should contact department of road and transport to ask the question

cool what kinda boost we talking about :) i just gotta know

Yeh true if you drop a turbo in and get pulled over ull get done for the turbo, a 5k would be eaiser to hide and might not be such an issue with dept of road and transport if you change the engine number on the rego details. Give em a call.

No worries dude happy motoring best thing about the forum is you get all opinions based on questions asked. Maybe next time i should include the clutch bit before ending my post. Didnt want to leave you with too much to check at one time.

never said it did no harm in covering all the bases, and yes you could be right the next step would be to remove the CV shaftes and gearbox to inspect the pressure plate and fricton plate ect ect. and worse comes to worst teeth have been stripped inside the box.

yeh that is pretty cool id have that.

Once you have done these checks and repairs if you want to spend the money,well move on to what else the problem could be. These items need to be in working order to further diagnose.

Ok here we go :) In the engine bay there is a little reservoir bolted to the right hand side of the firewall, which is next to the brake master reservoir make sure both of these have brake fluid upto their maximum levels. If not and if they are dry then there is your 1st problem they need fluid and if they are empty then there will be air in the system which will also cause the problem your experiencing. Next pump the clutch pedal vigeriously say 20 times and then put your head under the dash with a light to see if there are any brake fluid leaks on the shaft leading to the pedal and fire wall inside. If there are leaks then the clutch master will need replacement. Very easy 1 pin with a clip and 1 clutch pipe fitting and 2 bolts to hold the thing to the firewall. Bleeding the brake fluid will come later. Next if that if all ok pump the pedal another 20 times as mentioned. At the front of the grearbox near the starter motor is the other end of the twisty pipe that runs from the clutch master cylinder pipe end to the clutch slave cylinder end. The clutch slave looks like a cast block with a rubbber boot with ribs that connects to the clutch fork. Pull back the rubber ribbed boot to see if there are any leaks from the shaft. If there are leaks this slave cylinder will also need to be replaced, once again very easy 1 pipe fitting and 2 bolts to hold it to the gear box once removed make sure the new slave has a little grease on the end before it mates back upto the clutch fork. Ok now this is very important never over tighten any of the brake pipes of bleed nipples, they are not a load bearing structure so will not need a huff and a puff and groan to tighten, they only need to be fed on by hand and then tightened a nip or two. The bleed nipple is on the slave end once everything is in position and "tightened" fill the clutch resevior to the max and find a small rubber hose or some vucum line to put over the bleed nipple. Put the hose in a 600ml coke bottle right to the bottom fill the bottom with 50ml of brake fluid. Now once these things have been done you can comence bleeding your clutch system, helps a ton if you have a mate who can sit in the drivers seat to pump the clutch pedal while you monitor clutch reservior level and flow from the slave. Open the bleed nipple with hose attached and in bottle as described. Initally the clutch pedal may go to the floor and not come back up so may need to bring back by hand untill the fluid is flowing say 20 or so pumps and including topping level up during.(may take more than 20 pumps but is a guide) Watch the fluid entering the bottle once it starts to flow during pumping it may be bubbling that is the air mentioned before need all of the air gone and nothing but fluid, so once the bubbles stop as your helper is pumping the pedal and your watching fluid level does not go past minium you can close the bleed nipple off. id repeat the bleed process 3 times to make sure. Do not over tighten the bleed nipple!!. Once all this has been done you should see the clutch slave and fork moving as your helper is pushing down on the clutch pedal, it should more a good 15mm or more. Try that see how you go and this is pretty much the rule of thumb for most hydraulic clutch and brake systems for bleeding and inspection altho brake inspection is similar but would need another seperated description as not to get the two confused.

I know you mentioned the word gearbox and clutch and I'm not at all trying to say you don't know what your talking about (internet text can be so impersonal). I just would like to know if you really mean manual gearbox or automatic. A little more info, like do you need to rev it to 5000rpm before depressing the clutch pedal to get it to drop into any gear or do you rev it to 5000rpm once you have selected drive and nothing happens ? If manual there may be no fluid in the master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch circuit or a leaking slave cylinder which is down at the gearbox clutch fork end. Also the friction material of the clutch may be so worn away that its not creating a conection between the engine and the gearbox. If an auto there may be no fluid in the transmission to activate any of the hydraulic circuits in the valve body, which pretty much drives everything let alone enough fluid to fill the torque converter. Or there is enough fluid but the internals of the trans mission once again are a bunch of clutch discs and plates sandwiched together to form clutch packs are totally burnt out also including the "bands" which grip the outside of various clutch packs to stop them rotating to select an upper or lower gear could be burnt out.

There are varying differences in looseness :) all brand new corollas have a problem of a squeaking belt on 1st startup and once the belt temperature has been raised the belt grips the pulleys better but once again they need tightening just a little to stop this. This applies to any slipping belt. Good with tools and know how to tension a belt ? its dead easy. Oh and your rear brakes can still make noises even with new pads. Could be that the disc rotor surface needs to machined and the pads havent been "bed in" correctly and also that light braking causes pads to glaze up like the glazed finish on potery, causes a nice lil noise.

could be a alternator belt/power steering belt that needs retensioning

$250 delivered from the us thats very reasonable

makes me laugh :D

OMG! excel driver BAN!!!!!!!

i was almost going to reach for the razor blades

Nice ride dude. I took the AE71 off the road for 6 months and ive been driving the missus 94 csi limited seca since and just yesterday i started and drove the AE71. The seca feels like a 4AGE compared to the 4AC hahaha. The later 4AFE family has better port design and a few extra differences to the early 4AFE which you have but injected is better than the carby 4AFC. I agree with HIGHROLLA and ae174agze. A nice set of extractors 4 into 2 into one, decent free flowing bends in the exhaust and ask around about mufflers i hear "turbo brand" mufflers and good for budget. You may go for the droning loud exhaust but might get enoying in the long term if is a daily. A decent air filter setup with a unrestricted cold air pickup K&N, also a good qulity oil change full synthetic and premium oil filter.

sweet dude happy building , btw i have a grille/door/tail light to suit the later ke20 if your interested don't think ill be wanting much for the bits

couldnt agree more sibbo and jip_01 but i think oneday ill probably buy my kids a shitter corolla :D once i have kids i mean and that would be 15+ years from now lol

If changing to a new oil it wouldnt be to hard to get the engine really hot and leave the engine draining for an hour, then refill with 3L of the new oil without changing the filter. once you have done this run the engine untill hot once again and leave for an hour draining and change the filter to a high quality unit such as genuine or ryco premuim. By doing this you have done two things, flushed the old oil out of the engine and carried out a complete brand change in oil. Now that this is done just refill and happy motoring.

Hey teddy hows the shake down going all problems sorted ?

I had the chage light problem in my KE30 found it was a dirty rusty earth cable bolting point at the chassis on the LH engine bay rail.

Hi guys i have two 32/36 DGAV webers with coolant chokes. One is stamped italy and the other spain. I herd some rumblings from an escort finatic a few years back that these are like apples and pears sorta look the same but not. Apparently the italy stamped one is better ? Any dealings with this minor difference.

I agree also :)