SLO-030

Unlike superglue, Loctite being an aerobic compound it wont go hard until you screw it in (isolating it from air) so your not in a rush to get it in before the glue dries on the thread. Loctite is also great for jokes, an old guy i know put some on a workmates press studs on his overalls. Lets just say the overalls werent useable after they had to cut them off of him haha.

JiP, it was probably Santa. I hear he's been hittin the EggNog a fair bit lately

Went round and saw this yesterday. Looks repairable from the outside. will just have to wait till they start taking panels off to see if theres any more serious damage (subframe etc). If you need any help Doug, just ask.

I hit them..... ........With a 40 tonne semi

Maccas does a mean Slushi. had one today with my FREE vip burger :D

Yea, just don't wanna screw up the seal carriers at all :D even tho i got spares.

ALOT more than the $22 Jason paid. New ones for my 25 were $180 off ebay, pretty good considering i paid $200 for the whole car

I'll race ya :D Looks the goods mate, and looks as if it can deliver them rather quickly too ;) nice work

so hard that we have to turn to mazdas for venitions. There was also a TA22 celica there aswel, spraycan paint job, was in a demo derby by the looks of it. We almost cried.

He goes there so much theyve set up a bed out the back next to the car compactor for him.

PWN3D. what was that rule you told me you have Trav? Not gay unless you kiss? or something like that? EDIT: PAGE 95, 5 to go :D

As said before. wheel nuts where tight and wheel was on the ground. Motor is sitting on an engine stand. just trying to figure out how to remove the front and rear main seals. then the rear main seal carrier , timing cover sump can go back on. then the water pump, oil filter thingo. once i can get the head surfaced i can torque that down then get all the rest of the bits on it and onece I'm happy with it i'll start making the mounts for the SC. Just messing round with some Night Shades (Tail Light Tint). EDIT: dried now, about as dark as its gonna get for this coat.

Dude, this is the second overrated rolla to have been pranged in as many weeks. Hopefully you can fix it. PLEASE don't sell it.

can't see it to begin with

i heard you have to swap every panel from the bumper back to the windscreen. Front valance, front 1/4 panels, bonnet and the panel between the winscreen and bonnet. Thats all off the top of my head.

Wheel nuts are tight iss brew and the wheel was firmly on the ground.

As the title says, I need to know how to remove the front and rear main seals for my 4k. sure it seems simple as but it just wont come out. Ive removed part of the front seal but not the part that needs to come out :D Any help appreciated.

Ugh, this thread is going down hill faster than the scene girls/ persons thread. Can we please get away from dero bogan chicks, or I WILL be FORCED to E-bash you. Cus I'm tough YO!

Doesnt need a plate. That joint isnt open to the inside of the inlet manifold, just has some fins for the heat tranfer. Otherwis you'd have fuel in your exhaust and it wouldnt run.

Yes, many thanks to the admins and to all the others aformentioned. Merry Christmas all

*Ducks the Buwetts like a wascaly wabbit*

Well, if they fit, let me know. they look comfy as.

can definatly be able to be done on a coil spring rear end.

The stock timing setting is usually a bit of a compramise really, for diveability, power, idle etc as the average joe doesnt wanna have a crap low end just to have a few extra hp in the high top end. upto a point you can mod the factory settings for that bit more power on a fully stock engine, but if you go too far you too begin to comprimise things (e.g scarificing low end driveability of more top end power). but as soon as you go modifying things like compression, cam, carb you have to change settings accordingly. Yep a shaved head will increase comp. not sure how much more advance would be nessacery as it depend on how much you get it shaved and what the final compression ratio is. Also a change of fuel, say from regular ULP to premium. you can give it a bit more advance to take advantage of the extra octane. My ute is tuned for about 95-98 octane but due to the expensive petty price and fuel consumption i was running regular (91) and you could tell it wasnt tuned for it because as soon as you opened the secondaries it would ping a little bit.

Your car still sounds like a fire cracker when u do a key banger. Hurry up and blow that muffler. I had a bunch of knobs in an R31 following me and chasing me, so the first oppertunity i got i keybangered that prick. Stayed way back he did :D