clubby2084

Was actually taken by my mate over my right shoulder. :D Besides, wouldn't it be dangerous at any speed ?.

Cruising, NT style. Overtaking at this speed needs to be a well thought and pre-planned event. Acceleration past 130 is, well, it IS possible. And we'll leave it at that. Everything is big in the NT, even the ants build big enough to park a Corolla in.

A few years back my mate left an esky full of Christmas food on the back seat of his VP Commodore (frozen seafood, chooks, meats etc). Anyway a VERY long story short, the Police impounded my mates car, for 2 months... I picked the car up late in February with the esky still on the back seat, and OMG the smell !!!. The car had sat for 2 months in the Brisbane summer sun with that esky on the back seat. As I walked towards the car you could smell it. The doors were closed and the windows were up. Didn't even attempt to open the esky, it got thrown out at the next industrial bin. As for the interior of the car. I replaced the entire interior in that car (headlining as well). Didn't work. Short of shoving a straw into a box of bi-carb and snorting half the box. Every time I got in that car I could smell that rotten esky. Everyone told me the car smelt fine after I replaced the interior. Was one of those smells that imprints into your memory.

Wanted to show off a previous toy I once had. It's a 1981 Toyota Cressida with a mild Holden 308ci V8. Crane cam, Edelbrock manifold, Holley 600. Worked Trimatic, and Ford 9 inch diff to suit. Hilux struts, front brakes and calipers, Ford drums rear. Had a 2 & 3/4inch exhaust (so it was loud). And it attracted plenty of attention. Surprisingly plenty of it good attention. I once got let off for doing a burnout in a shopping center car park. The Police Officer was more interested in the car than what I had just done. I also got death threats from a Porsche 911 owner, who, I easily hosed down. I was assured by QLD Main Roads that the car could be registered in QLD due to a common agreement with the NT. I was assured this before I moved to Brisbane. I rocked up to Main Roads to get an inspection, bloke pops the bonnet, says "absolutely NO WAY" and closes bonnet. End of inspection. Sadly, I sold if off for parts in 1998. Around 2 years later while on Brisbane's North side. I saw a Blue Toyota Cressida (same model) with the same style XC Falcon wheels, and a very deep rumble to it. Some times I wonder. Sadly missed. >>CLICK HERE<<

Too few kilometers is not necessarily a good thing. Jap imports come here with minimal kilometers on the clock. Although the vehicle has a low amount of kilometers, the question is how many hours has the engine done ?. Japanese traffic being what it is, an engine can be idling for very long periods to travel a short distance. I would say look for one with over 100 thousand on the clock. If anything was to go wrong it would have by now. Find one with between 100 and 150 thousand kilometers on it and you'll have a very good car for years Although they are not a ADM model they were imported in such numbers there are parts available (Cars, half cuts and engines). My next door neighbor had one (with the super-strut suspension) and apart from routine maintenance he spent nothing on it.

Same happening in Darwin. Stinking hot !. 33 deg days, 24-26 deg nights. Don't ever remember Darwin being this hot during the dry. The A/C is still working overtime in the rolla. Singlets, shorts, beers and swimming pool weather. It's bloody terrible :lolcry:

Out in the Clubsport the other day. 19.1l/100 around the burbs, Ouch!. (blowin out the cobwebs ya see!!!). Then went for a cruise down to Litchfield NP and back, achieved and overall average of 10.6l/100. Sitting on the 130km/h limit. None to shabby for a worked 355.

I'm as jealous as all hell !. This is exactly what I wanted to do to mine. Keep me posted on how that auto holds up. VERY interested.

If it's a V6, shouldn't it be a Buick badge. :lolcry: 2nd...

I found the same play in the transaxle of my AE82 when I did the rack ends. Mine is an automatic and was in Park, when I jacked both wheels off the ground the trans disengaged the trans lock allowing the wheels to spin freely (in Park). That's when I noticed the play in the transaxle. Put the car back on the ground allowing all the weight back on the front wheels, you should find most of the slack gone.

No change I'm afraid Altessaclub. I bolted up the new fuel pump on Thursday. Also put new fuel filter and new air filter. I've been studying the workshop manual. I'm going to remove the choke next week and check float level while I'm there. If that doesn't work I'm going to replace the TVS valve (a christmas tree valve with several vacuum hoses on it, located on top of the thermostat). At different operating temperatures it redirects vacuum to different parts of the carb. According to the manual both are a source of flat spots. I'd KILL for efi...

In a fit of madness about 12 months ago I looked at trading my AE82. ALL dealers in Darwin said they were not interested in trading my car (even though they agreed it was in amazing condition for it's age). I was told to sell privately. So to Darwin Suzuki, VW, Ford & Mazda - a sale and any future sale from me (and as many as I can convince) gone... Now I repaired the A/C, front struts, steering, and brakes. I have a car that feels as though it will travel for another 24 years. I can also take the moral high ground (like almost all Rolla Club drivers) knowing I have recycled a perfectly good car, rather than pollute the planet buying a freshly built one.

Something that might help... KM Driven, Tank size, L/100 350klicks, 45, 12.86l/100 400klicks, 45, 11.25l/100 450klicks, 45, 10l/100 500klicks, 45, 9l/100 550klicks, 45, 8.18l/100 600klicks, 45, 7.5l/100 650klicks, 45, 6.92l/100 700klicks, 45, 6.43l/100 I used a 45 liter tank as this is what most Corolla's seem to have. But, if your car has a larger (or smaller) tank and want to work it out visit calculator-converter.com

I have a AE82 with standard 4AC and 4sp auto, I get around 650 kays on the highway and around 450 city. A little more of each if I drive like a granny.

So glad you asked. Here's something similar to my Sydney runabout. And my ride until 6 months ago Although I don't drive large vehicles anymore I do still drive for a living. Waiting at lights for 3 to 4 changes just to get going isn't waiting a few seconds. I reiterate what I said, Road Trains do not belong in the greater area of ANY city, urban or suburban .

Agree totally. But come to Darwin where they have road trains with 4 trailers. Road Trains turning right out of Berrimah Road and onto Stuart Highway. Your light goes green and your still looking at the 2nd trailer go past. By the time trailer 4 goes past your now sitting at a red light. Guess what ?, look to the left there's another 2 road trains waiting. OK I get it, places like Darwin need road trains but, like every other capital in this country they need to have a limit on how far into the greater area they can come.

EDIT: I have the carby off my car here if you wanted me to send up so you can try it. Thanks Trev, have ordered a new fuel pump (should be here by Wednesday) so I'll give that a go first. Thanks for the offer of sending your carb up mate, I may just take you up on that. I'll let you know what happens. Yeah Suziefox73 I know how much I've spent on this carby and what I could have had instead (and not far off the expense of EFI).. I am familiar with the Weber DGAV carby but, getting a mechanic in Darwin to fit one is nigh on impossible. The mechanics up here can't be bothered "modifying" cars. I am still looking. I went to 7 mechanics around Darwin asking around who could fix my car. Only 3 said they could fix the carby on the car (by removing it and sending it to the only specialist in town). And good idea about removing the choke. I have thought about removing it as it's another part of the carby that worked for just 5 minutes after each rebuild. The damned thing isn't working anyway, so...

Thanks chappo12, while I tend to agree I need another mechanic, good ones don't seem to be in abundance. I've had 3 mechanics who recommended rebuilds and 3 fails (only the last guy had the carb off and sent to a specialist, the rest did it on car). You see my problem, take it to ANOTHER mechanic and I guarantee his first response is, "it needs a rebuild". Back to square one. And after spending well over $1300 on a standard carby I'm kinda reluctant to spend any more on it. Thanks Trev - I did think about it once or twice a while back, but thought, naaah, couldn't be. My previous experiences with mechanical fuel pumps is they go kaput without warning. Wouldn't think a flogged out fuel pump would last 40thousand kays (this is how long it's been going on). But OK, can't hurt. I'll give that a go and let you know.

Hi Guys, Just reading the topic below and the problems Skippy1331 is having, and I'm having a similar problem with my AE82. I have done all the things recommended in his thread (fuel filter, tank, carby rebuild, vacuum lines etc etc) but still have the same issues. Huge flat spots and surging. I get a flat spot turning left and sometimes it snuffs out, and big flat spot every time the secondaries open when I put the foot down. I have had the carby reconditioned 3 times in 3 years (on recommendation from mechanics) and I've had no luck, the problems persist. On the subject of tuning the carb. The last time I had the carby reconditioned I dropped the car off at my mechanics, he sent the carb to a "specialist". This specialist rebuilt the carb and tuned it on an engine he has in his workshop. The engine in the workshop was a Holden 202 Red with an adapter to make my carb fit. Now, to me that sounds like the carb is being tuned for a 202 and not a little 4A. I would have thought a 3.3 liter 6 would have very different fuel/air requirements to a 1.6. I also think the jets may be the wrong size as well, and this is why I get terrible flat spots. When I brought these issues up with my mechanic he assured me this wasn't the case. I have since taken the car back a number of times with carby problems (warranty) and my mechanic has told me to take it somewhere else because all his mechanics are young and don't understand or work on carby's !!!. Any ideas or suggestions ?.

Jeeezus !, which side of the street/footpath/kerb do you intend on driving this monster, or are you willing to let the car make up it's own mind. Keep us updated with this little beauty (I'm sure the local news station will keep us all informed once it's on the road :D ) Dead set love it...

I love my AE82 cause it's a great cruiser. It's only an auto but, it's the 4 speed O/D auto. So it's slow, v e r y slow. But thats OK, since the NT introduced 130km/h speed limits (Booooo!) you don't need much more than a Corolla anyway. At 130km/h my AE82 sits at 3000rpm, A/C set to freeze, stereo up and cruise.

The rack ends for manual steer are longer than either power steer rack ends. So (and I'm only guessing) the actual rack for a manual steer must be a shorter unit.

Well, that was pretty easy. I ended up doing the rack ends and tie rod ends. But here's a trick some may not be aware of. There are 3 different types of steering rack ends for an AE82. Manual steer rack ends and 2 types of power steer rack ends. One type of power steer rack is called a "TRW rack" (I'm sure someone here can tell me what TRW means) and these rack ends are longer than the normal power steer rack ends. I asked for power steer rack ends and this is what I got. See below. The black one is the old one off my car. The shinny new one as you can see is about 10 mil shorter. Which severely reduces the bite the thread has on the tie rod. I was only getting about 2 turns of thread on the tie rod before getting the required length. I didn't think this was the safest idea so took the new rack ends back. That's when I found out about the TRW rack. So here's a helpful warning to anyone else doing this. There is no noticeable difference between either type of rack end, apart from the length. Either know what type of rack you have (stuffed if I know how to tell) or compare the new against old like I did.

Yeah, they were not great. Sound good (just a little better that a 4K). But as I said, 100kw. That's not a lot. And their a heavy little critter too. I'm not aware of head gasket problems. I had the 2.0 V6 Astina, and in 90 thousand kays I did in it, it didn't sneeze. 2.0 V6 again sounds good, and no grunt unless flogged. I knew a guy who had one of these engines packed into a KB Ford Laser. Sure it was a bit faster but just the noise made heads turn.

My AE82 has the tacho dash. The tacho needle started flicking once the car got up to operating temperature (not jumping around and giving the wrong reading like yours). First the reluctor in the distributor needed replacing, so I had a distributor rebuild. The problem returned once the alternator started to pack it in. This time the tacho would flick at any time including at idle. I replaced the alternator, problem solved. Do what Altezzaclub recommends, get a multimeter. Check your alternator. Good luck