Medicine_Man

Yep, Shocks go in easy as, Just put a bit of rubber grease on the hole for the bottom mount to make them side on easy.. Shocks feel good, Took 2.5 coils off the rear standard springs and it has sagged a bit with a full tank of petrol. Handles like a kitten on carpet, But not a fan of the exhaust scraping out and not being able to get into my side of the garage.. New rear springs are on the way and its going to come up a tad..

Yeah, Depends how much a new diode/rectifier plate is, If that is indeed what it is. really need to split it apart and test everything before you can draw a real conclusion..

Black wire with white stripe should be the start signal wire, feed that 12v and it should do its thing..

Your alternator has a diode or two out I'd say. consdidering last time I looked at it the unit was charging, but there was no charge light coming on with ignition.

yeah, should have 3 wires, common (frame), warning light and fuel level. put a jump wire from frame to both and should see light come on and full deflection of your gauge if its fine.. *gauge test*

more likely the sender in the fuel tank is faulty..

After some steering arm dramas as some people will know, I have finally got the new suspension in. Quite a bit lower than it was before, Still need to get the exhaust raised a bit as its the lowest point on the car since lowering it.. Took it for a test drive and it feels miles better, was partially to clean out the oil the f@$kstick mechanic put in the exhaust for shits and giggles..

Good to hear that this is running :P

He's actually taking the piss out of teddy as teddy wanted to take it down there last year but nothing went right at the last moment..

if i got a photo with teddys stock ae86 steering arms beside them you would see the difference..

i somehow magically have shorter arms that fit a ke70 now though... :cool:

Inner ones are AE86 P/S arms (L8, R8), Outers are standard KE70 (L6, R2) , Middle are the unknowns (L1, R1)...

Outers are KE70 standard items off my car, went to put my ae86 struts on with the inners that are supposidly ae86 p/s arms but they don't fit the ae86 struts. they bolt up to the ke70 standard struts fine though and are shorter.. anyone come across this before?

with a test light/multimeter check to see you have power on one side where it clips onto the demister bars, the other side of the window should go to frame..

you should be able to feel the wires get hot if there is a short too, if its shorting slowly that is..

are we talking front or rear? If you have no fan speeds it will be fan speed resistor, Rear would probably be a power supply issue/frame return issue..

Fix it first and see if it keeps blowing. Or even better, replace the fuse, stick it in reverse and wriggle the shit out of the wires to see if the fuse pops again. current will take the path of least resistance, lights may be very dull with a short as the current is going straight though frame back to the battery.. (would be very hard to see with lenses on)..

They are somewhere around the $300 mark depending on how bad the exchange rate is..

ST205 KYB Excel G

Yesterday I Finally picked up the last "goodies" stopping me from getting the coilovers in. A set of ae86 Cusco cambertops. This morning I managed to put the backing plates on the struts and get the cambertops on. This afternoon the wheel bearings/hubs were greased and the rotors went on.. Rear shocks were ordered (KYB Excel G Part #343113 VB-VN Commodore Wagon) and have arrived, Just waiting now to get my hands on a set of lowered 5KG springs..

Got some pictures too, Will post later..

Well if your charge/battery light is on you will have issues with charging, be it not charging or overcharging the battery, Should look at fixing that first..

Volt meter is the best tool for auto electrical diagnostics.. Use the volt meter to find an ignition switched wire or power your pump off the positive side of your ignition coil..

That is bloody tops, Would love to see some more action videos :hmm:

1. Bad connection to frame on the indicator, Brake light is drawing all the current.. 2. What is the voltage at the battery and the alternator B+ post when the engine is off and running? 3. Could you draw a diagram in paint of how the fuel pump is wired up? (You can't really link battery and ignition power or your car will keep running when you turn it off..) The fuses shouldn't keep popping, either you have a short somewhere or the fuse is underrated..