Medicine_Man

I think he wants one of the ones where you give the ladys lots of drugs and get your freak on..

you can fit an electric brake control unit to the trailers draw bar, but it is much nicer to be able to control a unit from inside the car..

Red one is Grant, He is on AE86 Driving Club more than he would be on here..

You will find that most of the people who compete there of a Friday night in the actual proper competitions are all upgrading from 4AGEs to bigger better motors as they have to to be competitive against the other cars. Thats right, Even a 4AGE will not cut it in competition where you have Skylines and Silvias to compete against. By all means you can have fun with a 4K, Just don't expect it to be competition worthy..

http://www.na-performance.com/

Get it in already :y: Makes me want to do some work on mine ;)

How do you know I'm not already watching? ;)

In that case I will be dropping around tomorrow to have a bit of a sticky-beak ;)

Sounds like it could be a crook ECU perhaps..

*CRIES* :) Yet another chapter begins!

Yeah, Pretty sure you can buy aftermarket kits and fit them to the park light circuit, Not hard to do really..

Yeah, looks the same as early 4age

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...es/4K-E/Pinouts

Got a picture of the sensor at all?

The injectors should receive battery voltage on one side and the computer grounds them out on the other side when they need to open. Looking at the picture of your ECU and connectors they are not the same as the 4AGE.

indicator grounds out through the switch, if you get hazards and no indicators, more than likely it is the switch that is faulty.. can try pulling it apart and cleaning the contacts, apart from that try another switch..

problem is at the indicator switch obviously..

It's not exactly rocket science, somewhere between the bulb and the holder there is increased resistance or it is going open circuit, Either due to a build up of shit/corrosion, The bulb is not tight in its holder, The spring pressure is not strong enough to hold the contact against the globe or a wire is plain and simply not making correct contact. By hitting it you are making something move and make contact, Think about it for a second. You fix it by using your eyes to find where the problem is, Or get a test light and trace the path of the indicator light wiring to see where it is going open circuit.

bad connection to frame, would be at the bulb holder..

The coil could be fine, It may just be it is not wired right. Then of course the ballast resistors do let go and they don't keep power to the coil after crank.. If you need a hand let me know, I work over that side of town and can come have a look after work tomorrow..

What you are saying makes no sense, The coil gets power via the ballast resistor (Drops the voltage to around 6V). Where abouts in Brisbane are you from?

By the sound of it you mean the ballast resistor? If it is open circuit replace it.. coil should still get 12v on crank though..

bad earth or bad connection to the light on that side..

Thats a load of bull, Alex's 5K has my old 4K cam in it!

Coming with Teddy this year at long last, Looking foward to it..