irokin

Only wrong if its been used first :dance:

Liquid Nitrogen f0 shizzle

don't have a picture of my current office...its...more conventional...its got a desk and umm...a microwave we cook dirt in...and an oven...we cook dirt in that too. All sorts of other weird shit. I like my official title "Quality Officer". I like my unnoffical title better... "DIRT DOCTOR" I'll endevor to get some more pictures from work...and hopefully a movie of the next blast...I missed the really big one about a week ago :dance: it was BIIIGGGG.

Outside the office in the first pic. It was very dirty with screen decks 20 meters ^^ up with dirt falling off them just to piss you off all day. Its basically a giant mixing machine...for dirt...if you were wondering.

Then I had this office for a while...it was airconditioned!! And your never thirsty with 13,000 litres of water onboard (could fill it in about 12 minutes...g0t flow?)

This was my office for a while apparently I'm not supposed to hit the "Emergency stop"...ever! (what I'm supposed to do I'll never know...I don't think anyone does)

Wouldnt it be the left hand corner of the tappet cover?

why don't you just shut up and wait for someone who knows what theyre talking about to answer the question...

yes. If its 110LL (and it probably is) it will destroy your O2 sensor. If its any other avgas your going backwards with your octane rating... Just use 98RON Ultimate.

should have picked a better engine than a 4K... I recon a big bike engine (500cc+) would be the way to go... And steer away from using car parts/wheels...too heavy.

I agree very much so with this statement Engine bearings don't work like ball bearings. The shells just allow for a wear surface should they and the crank touch (and they shouldnt touch much). The oil is what does all your lubricating and there should be minimal metal on metal action. Id be looking at your brand, type and viscosity of oil and your oil pressure, pump and maybe shimming your pressure release valve for a nice steady 60psi+.

Id just like to say that NASCAR SUCKS!

I did one of these back when I was on my learners. Good courses...just remember to keep your head on your shoulders. Just because youve done a course...doesnt mean your suddenly an excellent driver. (Almost everyone that did the course the year before had an accident within the first year after doing it)

I used (very succesfully) KE70 calipers and rotors, KE30 backing plates, KE20 bearings & strut...took me (no shit!) 1hr to do the entire conversion on the front (inc bleeding lines etc) I then upgraded to VN rear Commonwhore pads (Bendix performax which...they don't make anymore :)) and I couldnt get the brakes to fade at all.... (I quite literally drove down the back of Mt Coot-tha with my foot on the brake, foot on the accelerator trying to get them to fade at all. I stopped and I could feel the heat radiating out through the rims a good 2 feet away. Unfortunatly very high metal content means they chew the rotors..but KE70 rotors are easy and cheap to source.)

Nah for once it wasnt anything to do with cars (which has been nice!)

might think about cruising up...had a blast last time...though that might have had something to do with Mr Revhead...

wow...all these things happening while ive been away slaving over another website (that now has ego conflicts...ffs)

4x114.3 no more than +30 without spacers...

roflmao

I don't usually have breakfast....cup of coffee and then off to work...

Hooray for the $300 shimmed R32 LSD :D Its tighter than a nuns...well

don't forget the Kickdown actuator.

3T-GTE and 3S-GTE are completely different. 3T is 1.8 litres, DOHC 8 valve compared to 3S which is 2 litres DOHC 16 valves. 3T is alot older than the 3S. 3S are good for some big HP numbers...but still have a cast iron (yick) block (hugs all alloy engine). 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5 litre 6 cylinder engine...usually twin turbo. If you don't have alot of money I can't really see any of these happening. Soarer 1JZ-GTE frontcut is around $4500 Celica 3S-GE (non turbo and FWD) is around $2500 SR20DET (nissan equivalent of the 3S-GTE with the added plus of an all alloy engine) frontcuts are going for around $3000-4000 for the non VVT version. Skip the 3T because I doubt you'll find one and you'll have problems getting parts.

nothing wrong with rotors... Your probably just intimidated by their simplistic workings :S 600hp from 1.3 litres...yes please!

Aftermarket computer....