irokin

lol, just start one already.

http://topsecret.ico.bz/base.html

Never seen Field of Dreams? If you build it they* will come. *Its actually he, but they works better here Mr Pedantic Pants

For this reason I don't think I've ever heard of SR20s having head over-oiling problems like the RB series does. I know guys who have oil restrictors plus external drains and STILL have too much oil in the head of an RB. I'd wager the SR20 has a considerably larger volume of oiling to the head than the RBs too as it has oil squirter manifolds above the camshafts to keep the wide lobes lubricated. The rocker arms might suck sometimes, but I'll take that over the excess oil problems any day of the week. I can't quite see how the passages are arranged between the cams and the timing chain but the lean could potentially improve oil drain. Just reading about the SR20 development on autospeed and found this interesting. Basically Nissan cast an alloy CA20 open deck block and compared it to a development SR20 block. I'm not sure how significant 0.01mm is in the scheme of things though? Doesn't sound like much?

It'll be a crazy tight fit on a 296mm rotor, they came under 16s from factory. The S14/15/Z32 cast iron and R32 alloy caliper takes a 280mm rotor and does fit under 15s so might be a better/easier option? Essentially the same setup, same piston size (40.4mm x 4), same pad (DB1170) just setup for a smaller rotor. Get the alloy version though, the cast iron ones add about 1.5kg per caliper! This is a standard GTR rim + caliper (and even the nasty old cross drilled rotor).

:lolcry:

I might put it on the front page, it would be a shame for people to miss this!

This is really bad on my uni laptop. The mouse has a back button on the side, so when I go to grab the mouse to hit "post"... RAAGEEEEE. So now if I'm typing a big post I do it in notepad and copy it over.

Yea all bolt up essentially. I'm already running R33 GTSt fronts which are similar calipers (the only difference being the 32 GTR calipers take a 2mm wider rotor). The rears are standard S13 currently so going from a single piston 280mm rotor to a twin piston 297mm rotor with drum handbrake. All up in the rear I'll have a net gain of weight (heavier rotor, lighter caliper, extra handbrake mechanism). Front might be a slight reduction over whats currently on there but still heavier than standard. The goal is to have these brakes cope with the car for the foreseeable future. There's some R32 GTRs racing on standard calipers with good pads so I can't see me having any problems with a 500kg+ head start. The front calipers and rotors cost me $0 and the rear calipers cost me $0 I thought maybe I could throw some cash at jazzing them up a bit. Total cost for the brakes including the alloy pistons and reseal kit, new rear rotors, handbrake setup and new rear brake lines is around $1000 so far.

Just the undertray on the front. If I could do it in CF I'd look at making up a plug to do the whole front bar/splitter as one piece. Finished rebuilding one of the fronts this afternoon. Decided not to paint them as the original paint is still in good condition. They desperately needed a rebuild. Pistons were rather stiff in the bore. I had to remove each piston individually, grease it up and put it back in the caliper before I could get all of the pistons far enough out to pull out. There's also what looks like molten bits Ferodo DS2500 stuck to the calipers at the bottom. Might go some way to explaining why they struggled to pull up a 1600kg GTR before brushing the tyre wall at Lakeside (also explains why these calipers are no longer attached to that car). Snuck back into the kitchen while no one was looking for some weights. Stock R32 GTR caliper. And with alloy pistons. Trying to find some weights on the GTR Brembos to see how they compare. I'm quite enjoying rebuilding calipers, I'm a little bit sad I've only got one left to go. Need to go grab some more brake cleaner though.

irokin to the rescue! Need to use the BBCode option. Glad I fixed the pics, awesome conversion!

Any pics?

Well, its a good example of quote mining and logical fallacies. And like all good conspiracy theories, when you begin to poke holes in it they begin to come up with more and more ridiculous explanations. Example, the Pentagon attack. Truther: No plane crashed here! It was a tomahawk/whatever missle. Fact: There are plane parts all over the lawn of the pentagon. Truther: Well, there was a C-130 nearby, he flew over and started scattering piece of aircraft onto the lawn of the pentagon! Riiiight. Its entirely unsurprising that by setting out with a hypothesis to prove, they're able to find tiny shreds of 'evidence' to distort and cling onto and make their conclusions. I'm sure if your hypothesis was that giant invisible spaceships dunit you could find 'evidence' you could twist around to suit that theory too. I'm not sure what they're saying the governments goal was these days, but if it was to remove America as a dominant power, destroy their economy and rack up $14 trillion in national debt, then mission accomplished.

Yep! That's the one.

Maxi! :D I think last I saw this car was driving away from Yatala pies in ~2003 with a smokey turbo. I'd love to see it out and about again :)

Should be somewhere around the $3000-4000 range. You might get lucky and find a cheaper one these days. Supply was a big problem with them when I was looking 5 years ago. Good ones were usually sold before they hit the ground. Where are you located?

From what caibs posted earlier, possibly if you swap an SR front case onto it. If you have to pay good money for it ($300+) just buy an SR box. Let me make this VERY clear though. THERE WILL BE FABRICATING! None of this stuff bolts in, at all. Engine mounts, gearbox cross member, diff mounts (and possibly shortening), tailshaft at an absolute minimum. Sorry for half hijacking your thread :P Yea, an over exaggeration but I think the point he was making to me though is that I would need to be able to make significantly more power to make it worth while. At the moment I might be able to stretch the motor to 350hp long term but I'd need to be looking at 400hp+ to make it really worth my while. They are chunky ass gears though Sounds like fun trying to make the standard gearbox last as long as possible. Might take a leaf out of Holingers book and look at spraying cooled oil onto the gears.

Plenty of people do the gearsets, supply isn't so much a problem as price and then strength. Most don't add a whole lot more power capability to the gearbox. PPG say max 500hp with the complete straight cut dog engagement set but you're pushing up over $10k with all the options once its assembled. At that kind of price I might as well just buy a used Holinger V8SC 6 speed, get a bellhousing made and be done with it. At least that way I'd get something that will take 600hp+ day in day out. The PAR straight cut dog engagement 1st-4th set sells for $4600 but their strength is a bit of an unknown. What happens if it explodes at the first track day? $5k+ down the tubes (ask loz from NS about what happened to his PPG set after a rebuild). Unless some engineering company wants the sponsor me a gearset or comes out with some solution around the $3k mark I really can't see myself going this way anytime soon. Can't get just the 3rd gear made up unfortunately. The lay shaft is all one piece so the minimum is 1st-3rd unless someone uber tricky can make the tooth profile match the lay gear. I like the look of that finishing. Could be just the trick.

Yep, lesson learnt :P The paints gone pretty hard feels almost ceramic. I'm happy with how it turned out on one caliper. The first one I did I laid the paint on too thick and its gone a bit funny in a couple of places. I might hit it with some fine sand paper and see if I can tidy it up. Haha, at least you're not afraid to do your own panel work. Mine will all be at a panel beaters and I'll have to pay through the nose. My biggest fear then would be smashing the car up having spent all this cash to fix it. I wish you were closer, I'd love to learn some CF or even half decent fiberglass fab skills. Maybe I should find somewhere I can do a course.

I know right, demographic research FAIL. Oh well, just take some joy in the fact that women are helping pay for something you love ;)

Pretty good round up of the Skyline gearboxes. I think the BNR32 and BCNR33 gearboxes have the same gearset as the R33 RB25 but appear to cope with much less power, probably due to the extra load from the 4wd system. I've been going through this gearbox drama myself for several years. I've considered PPG/PAR/OS Giken/Quaife gearsets but they're very expensive to purchase and maintain. Nismo S15 gearbox, expensive, unproven IMO, shitty dual mass flywheel. I've considered the R33 and Z32 gearbox swaps and I feel this is still the best avenue. My mechanic disagrees though and feels these boxes will sap about 50hp to spin due to their massive size. He does have a very good point so I've gone back to looking at how I can make the standard gearbox last for a little while longer. The big weak spot in the SR boxes is 3rd gear. If you want to keep them alive you need to be gentle with it. Definitely no clutch kicking in 3rd gear, I guarantee you will kill it very quickly doing this. With the existing gearbox the only thing we're doing to keep it going is running either Redline lightweight shockproof OR Royal Purple max gear. People have had great success with the Redline oil though its designed for dog engagement gearboxes and I've heard reports of glazed syncros. Not a problem for me on the track, but something to consider in a street driven car. With my standby gearbox I'm currently planning to build my recipe is the following: Late model S14 gearbox, hopefully out of an unmodified car. These have a better center plate to keep the oil in the front section of the housing where its needed. Send Gears and center plate for cryo treatment. I'm still a little skeptical of it but the results seem to speak for themselves. A mates about to put 400kw through a standard GTR gearbox that's been cryod. Normally that would be enough to kill the poor thing so I'll see how that goes. Then I'm considering shot peening the gears and adding a low friction coating of some sort. Professional rebuild with ALL new consumables (snap rings, spring pins, syncros, bearings) I might consider a billet main shaft too (if they fit with standard gears) just to help support 3rd gear better. All up hopefully ~$3000 and happy to live with 350-400hp or much less if you're drifting.

Ooof! :( How deep?

I'd like to tidy it up eventually, but it's always going to be a track hack so I'm never going to be after show car quality. There's one big dent in the passenger side just behind the door that bothers me the most. Other than that and the front bar it's pretty good. I've got an idea in my head for a new front bar with an integral undertray with camlocks so it can be removed quickly. Probably use something like the vertex front bar as the base. Something along the lines of this: I got to work stripping down, cleaning and painting my rear calipers today Bare rear R33 GTS-t Sumitomo Caliper Caliper less piston seals and snap rings, standard pistons. 1459 grams. Please note that the cake was delicious. Same caliper with aluminium pistons. 1250 grams. I painted them flat black with VHT fireproof so I needed to cure it. Having been shooed from the kitchen for weighing calipers I wasn't allowed back in to use the oven for curing so I made my own. Behold, my brake caliper curing oven! Peak temperature was about 160degC on the calipers themselves. Not as hot as recommended by VHT but after a bit over 2 hours of baking it seems to have cured the paint very well. Calipers look great, just have to put the new seals and pistons in and they're ready to go. Next mission, front caliper rebuild.

I completely forgot about this car! Updates?