dbr11k

just curious.. does the camber plate on the left hand side look bent? or is it just the angle it's sitting on?

sure did .. i had money saved up for buying custom made springs but seen these and thought it's around the same price but i get adjustability and the camber tops as well :cool:

guess who is getting ae86 coil overs :dance: wasn't going to go down the route of coil overs.. but why not? like i said ... it's only going to be driven on the track :cool:

not sure man :( but it's like no one wants her the way she is (with the paint i mean) so if i just keep going along with it and doing more and more to her, than i can put the price up when she is painted again .. i'll probably look for something around 3500 when she is painted.. but i just don't have the money to re register her and paint her.. so hopefully it sells before rego is due.. i'm only selling her as i need to get to the track with the other car asap.. i won't have a license for another year so i don't wanna see rosie sitting around doing nothing, i would like to sell her to someone who will appreciate her and make her better, and maybe do an engine conversion like i wanted to do :y:

thats bullshit mate .. hope they didnt get to much off it .. makes ke sick >:(

so rosie hasnt been doing much, still waiting to find her a new home.. no such luck :( she is nearly all in primer and if i get the money i will be painting her white again soon ..

yea this happened with a set of HID's i bought.. i just filed the tab that wouldnt line up and havent had a worry since.

yes please interior shots .. and also i couldnt find my manual shifter surround, i must have sold it :glare:

i know shit all about motors but i'd like to know whats causing this, but my car is doing the same thing, i did compression leaks test etc but can't figure it out, buying a new head gasket and than i'll have a look under the head.. i might have to try tapping the the valves with a hammer and see if its what evan suggested

i had one on my purple ae71 :P looks pretty good tucked up under the bar

yep, she's out of an auto t-18, has 4:1.1 gear ratio and come out of a car with 128xxx k's on it :y: looking at buying a full spool for it later on, as i don't like the idea of welded diffs that much, and can't see the point in going with a 2-way diff when the car is only going to be driven on the track

my mate had this problem the other day, we stuck the regulator in a press and squished it down a bit, just enough to get some pressure back up until he can afford an aftermarket fpr.

Guess who just scored a T-Series :dance:

Just thought i'd post the link as to where i'm sourcing this from http://www.rollcages.com.au/facts.html

still researching roll cages and found this.. thought it was pretty relevant :y: Your first consideration, assuming you have a known budget, is which type of material to use to construct the ROPS. There are currently two types of material currently being used to construct ROPS in Australia. The first choice of material is a 1020 grade mild steel CDW tube which is approved for use by CAMS. The minimum strength of this material is 350MPa (Yield strength) If the Roll cage design complies with standard design principles laid out in the CAMS regulations then it only requires registration to be used in Australian competition. The second choice of tube is a 4130 Chrome/Molybdenum tube of around 650MPa yield strength . This tube is a higher tensile tube which is not approved by CAMS/FIA unless the scope of design is approved and tested by an FIA approved engineer. Because these tubes are of a higher strength, clever design will enable the ROPS to be constructed using tubes with a reduced wall thickness. This is where the weight is saved but it must be said that the ROPS design and welding processes of these tubes is more critical.

she has 8 bolts :(

may as well add to this .. this was the best pig i ever owned .. ae71 converted flat front 4ac drift machine, cost 500 bucks and served me well :P

yea they were the best set of ae86 struts ive ever had lol .. never had a rolla handle so good in the front end before, i had 40mm rca's on them as well but sold them separately

i want my struts back now lenny lol

NOOOOOO!! .. keep it till i have money so i can buy it haha.. na but good luck with the sale mate and i hope it goes to a good home :y:

also on there they have "The 'translator' for diff codes is as follows" http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/209-S-and-T-series-diff-info pretty handy stuff if anyone wants a read, but where would i find the diff code?

nope, definatly not an LSD, it does third gear on the spot with one wheel haha. i'll take a snap when i get home from work if there is still enough light, also it has rather large drums on it if that means anything.. EDIT: just found this on ae86dc S Series = ADM = no LSD available T Series = JDM or T18 + others = plenty of LSD's available (KAAZ, Cusco, TRD etc) S Series 8 bolts carrier to axle housing T Series 10 bolts carrier to axle housing S series = ADM AE86 T series = JDM AE86, T18 when fitting a T series diff you need a shorter rear tail shaft either out of a JDM 86 or a T18. the rear shaft for a t series is 20mm shorter than that of an s series ADM AE86 760mm, T18 740mm Ke70's have a borgwarner diff different to S and T series. both S and T series will bolt in but an s or t series tailshaft must be used. tailshaft and diff combo's (assuming you have fitted 4AC or 4AGE and using T50 box) AE86 + T series = ADM or JDM front half + T18 or JDM rear half KE70 + S series = ADM 86 or JDM 86 front half + ADM 86 rear half KE70 + T series = same as AE86 with T series AE71 + S series = same as KE70 with S series AE71 + T sereis = same as AE86 with T series

sooo .. took the big girl for a lap up my street this arvo, breaks traction in 2nd with the cheese cutters on lol.. it just doesnt feel right, it has to much exeleration to be a standard ratio diff, its gotta be 4:1.1 or something close.. and i was looking at pics of different diffs this arvo and noticed that T-series diffs look WAY to much like the diff thats in this. would some kind lad like to inform me of how to identify what sort of diff i have in her please?? any identifying marks? my last ae71 had a diff in it that you could take a rear cover off, this thing is welded up in that spot where the inspection plate would normally be :hmm:

haha yea thats the go man, use all mums fuel :lolcry:

don't they use cro moly or what ever the stuff is called? when they reallly wanna keep the weight down, i can imagine what that would cost :blinks: