altezzaclub

OMG! you're a mate of Mitch's ! So there will be all sorts of things going into that poor unsuspecting car... He'll set you up right-

Did you build it or buy it like it is??

Tarmac, grass or both?? Got plans?? A low diff, 4.9 or 5.1? A Dyna or HiAce van diff would give instant acceleration. Suspension would depend on what you plan to use it for. A set of Sigma LCAs would give crazy camber, Corona ones make it just -ve. A cheap head job, fit a rally cam, Weber 32/36 and some extractors for low-down grunt. Lighten the flywheel so it spins up faster. You don't need to spend a lot of money, spend time instead.

Any data on what tempeture the oil was before fitting it, and what temp it is with it on there? I took the RA40's one off and ditched it, just more complicated stuff getting in the way and likely to go wrong. An oil thermometer is on a list somewhere..

Hydraulic handbrake in the plan?? Vertical lever one?

Do you think the immobiliser is fried? That will have electronics in it. Can you bypass it? I assume it was added recently, as in the last 10years. You might not have had any more current flowing than usual so the fuse wouldn't blow, but the direction of current might upset some transistors.

Is the battery still OK? Have you tried it in another car or can you get headlights & horn OK? What did you do with the battery in backwards, and what happened?? Sparks?? Smoke? Crank it over? I can't think of anything that would blow up from just having it in backwards. before you turn it on the only thing hat uses power would be the clock. If you turned the ignition on it might do funny things to the voltage regulator, but even that is mainly mechanical and it wouldn't worry diodes. The starter motor might freak, or the coil, but cars were positive earth until the 1950s without problems.

Could be, depends on the cam and its timing. If its a "3500-7500" sort you might have to live with the bottom end. Get the quads on and start chasing it, you don't want to spend ages and money sorting this problem only to do it again when you change carbs. Can you get an air-fuel reading down low? See if it is lean. No chance of the cam timing being advanced a tooth?? That makes it all up top. How about pulling the ignition timing back a few degree to help it low down.

What sort of car/motor?? Electronic ignition??

I assume that is tappet gap?? Simple to adjust yourself, maybe the mechanic didn't know what 4Ks were meant to have. I reckon close off all the vac ports and get the car running correctly, then start adding them in one by one. None of them are important. If the points and timing are correct, it will run fine without a vac advance. I hooked up the vac advance and the charcoal canister and blocked everything else, but it was a few years back and I've changed to SUs so I can't check which ports I used.

Nothng to do with the vac advance, there is something faulty in there. . Maybe an air leak in the inlet system that is leaning it out. What happens if you wind the idle speed up?? Does altering the mixture screw have any effect at all?? If I were you I'd make sure the points & timing are correct, then strip the carb and clean out the idle system. Check the idle jet and push petrol through the drillings with a syringe. When you are convinced the dizzy and carb are working correctly, then chase an air leak in the manifold, making sure all holes for vac hoses are blocked (incl charcoal adn vac advance) and listen under the inlet manifold with a plastic hose in your ear.

Ok, it was here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64240-my-3tc-with-a-turbo-weber-problems/page__pid__643010#entry643010 What is the compression ratio? I would expect lowered compression so off-boost it will be pretty sad. What sort of cam specs? Any ideas on the mixture when off boost? Got a dyno printout?

Fastest solution would come from a dyno run with a air/fuel graph. Most educational solution would be from an oxy sensor and an AFmeter. That way you can spend a couple of weeks watching it in all driving situations and work out when it is or isn't rich. You could hunt down the resistances of the sensors involved and check them with a multimeter, that will clear any suspects there. The actual solution from the diagnostics might be harder, a sensor packing up, a poor fuel map, a fuel problem... If the ECU wasn't responding quick enough it would be lean on booting it, rich on lifting off, but I doubt that is the problem. More likely, the ECU reads the quick boot and is programmed to instantly richen it as much as possible. Maybe they need a programmable ECU to run really well.

I buy them from the local engineering supplies shop, I have a couple of sizes of 'C' clips I need for machinery I fix. 20c each or something. They sell bearings, tools, chemicals, castors, rollers, general handy stuff.

Nice! You should be able to have a steel manifold welded up for a couple of hundred bucks. Just cut the port shapes out of a bit of plate and weld stub pipes on as needed.

Slow down a bit... make sure the cam will not coil-bind the springs. I think 0.41 was the max lift Crow said before you need non-standard springs, and you have 0.443. That's one reason I bought the 606 grind. I don't expect any of the K springs to handle it, they usually talk about Holden 202 springs for it. Get it balanced with the lightened flywheel if the pistons are out, it will rev much better. Are the front struts carrying inserts or still original wet struts? If they are inserts they are proably road ones, so they pull the car down and hold it down. If they are wet ones you can change the valving so the car lifts up easily, which is what you want for rallying. Stiffen the down valves and soften the up ones. When you weld the diff don't weld the teeth to each other. Fill a tooth space in each spider with weld. The next thing will be hunting for a 4.6 or a 4.9 diff I suppose. We ran lots of camber and Steve loved it, the car turned in for once in its life. We also removed both sway bars, front and rear, and will try them once the car is running sweet. Without them it has a lot more bite. Might be some ideas in here- http://www.rollaclub...089#entry641089

Time to get a carb to match the cam and extractors I'd say- Weber 32/36 downdraught or even better, a Weber DCOE or SUs.

I know the feeling... Still, I wish I had left-hand drills 40years ago, I've broken off plenty of Eziouts and made jobs even worse.

..pass the bill to your dad!

Ouch! Ask a welder.. would he fill it up with something that will grip the cast iron. maybe braizing rod or steel welding, then recentre the whole thing and retap a bolthole in there. Motor engineers must come up against this occasionally, but its a matter of cost in fixing it or replacing it. I think another block will be the way to go, anyone who works on it will be on $100+ an hour.

Grab a timing light and generate an advance curve, then compare it to the work I did on the 5K dizzy in the build in my signature. You can see the curve mine handles happily on 95octane. If your getting to 2000rpm with less than 25deg advance you can improve it. What carb are you using? Giant throats & ports will make the bottom end hard to work.

needs yellow pinstripe !! will go 5kph faster!

Snap! You're right, I was still in auto-> manual box change mode, and forgot you will need that wiring to work! So if you splice into a dash light or park light wire and feed it into the green it will light up the gear selector. The other wire will probably be the earth for it.

Put up a couple of photos taken with a real camera..

Fair enough, you'd be dead right if there was no other sign of it dripping water. The usual water leakage is between cyl 2 and 3, that's where the head lifts off when its warped. You might get an engineer to machine it out to the next bolt size then helicoil it back to standard, that would solve the off-centerness of the current hole. I'm not sure if that would be cheaper than grabbing another block.