Dropz

ra60 celica.

from what ive heard falcon springs fit all round.. and ra60 or ae86 struts. not 100% on that though. also from what ive read, in the rear you can use vn-vr commy rear shocks in a ksev and also suzuki sierra shocks if you want to lower it, but apparently these are very short and your likely to get defected with them. in mine i have TJ magna and VE commy springs. not sure if they are fronts or rears just had them laying around the workshop. cut off about 2-3 coils off each set and the car is the stock height o.O but i wouldnt suggest using these springs as even at the stock ride height the springs are held captive by zipties. i mean, sure i have a stiff as f@$k ride (compared to stock) but I'm just waiting for the day i snap all the zipties and drop a corner. when the load is applied to the springs they only compress like 1mm. they are made for a 2-3tonne car and I'm using them in a bog stock ke70 lol.

you realise drifters, drag racer, everyone uses a 1 piece for its strength? the 2 piece has more components that can fail (centre bearing) if your putting the money/effort into the ca conversion imho the 20 just isnt worth it. it has no power anywhere, all it has is reliability if its stock and unmolested. the ca18 is reliable even when modified, and it gives a butt-tone more power. if your going to just keep it cheap a 4age conversion never goes astray. and lastly.. how does a pintara fuel pump have an inbuilt surge tank? ive never heard of it? is it off an r31 pinny? cos the 31 pintara i had just had a bog standard intake fuel pump. do you actually understand what a surge tank is, what its used for, and how it operates? don't mean to be rude or anything I'm just gobbsmacked. EDIT: actually a 4age conversion would be very similar pricing to a ca20 conversion. i priced one up and the ca20 was near 1300 with all the fab work done at below trade by my mate. from what ive heard 4age conversions can be done for not much more due to it being such a close fit already. a ca18 basic N/A setup could be done for around 2.5k depending on what work you can do yourself and what you can't.

looks nuts. love this car, same colour as mine, but wayy minter, and flat front!! thats a damn good chop for ms paint o.O

51ydn i know its not an rb20 but this may help a bit since its an rb30 lol, yes its a sh!t load to read but this guy is nutssssss! link: http://motamota.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=81265.0

if your going to make it for track use may i suggest: rb30 manual gearbox as its alot stronger. r31 wagon diff with a mini spool for better track and strength also. you've basically covered whats needed, its just the crossmembers that are the real issue. it may be an idea to get a bluebird radiator to keep it cool with a nice sized thermo fan. and it would be a good idea to give the engine a service before dropping it in. make sure all belts and hoses are in good nic, check your sparkies. depending on the history of the motor and its kms maybe give it a compression test and check the timings ok and timing belt isnt on its way out. the tailshaft will need to be shortened, suggest you rebalance it too. also it may be a good idea for a turbo just for that extra kick up the arse. myself, i would run a 1 or 2 litre surge tank for reliability, don't want to starve the engine when you kick it out at 100km + for this setup i would use the stock carby pump as the primary pickup pump and then whatever. other stuff: bigger brakes, stiffer suspension, strut braces, bigger swaybars. control arms off an old sigma for about 2-3degrees neg camber with ra60 rack ends (if your not converting to the ae86 power steering rack) rear shocks i'd use some off a vn-vr commy wagon, short stroke, with stiff springs, front i would get ae86 struts and brakes. oh and a handy hint for anyone using an r31 diff. vn rear brakes (drum and disc) bolt straight up to an r31 diff if you get blank rotors and get them redrilled to 4 stud. that way you can have disc footbrake and the good old drum handbrake :P i realise almost none of this is related to the ca conversion, but just some ideas for one and all.

just flicked through this thread. looks killer. just need to get shinier wheel nuts :) lol

you don't need fans. ive proven that lately, my eleccy fan had a blown fuse, only reason i checked it out cos its been sitting on half way all week and turning the fan on hasnt cooled it down.

not bad. needs more shiny paint. get a clear coat, then polish that clear coat, lol.

lols. i get the tectaloy stuff from a tectaloy factory near tradeschool. as a local apprentice they charge me about half price, cash only though. ;) love it. can get a 5l bottle of 100plus for 20, 5l bottle of 90 plus for 15, and the cheapo 60 shit for $10. all premixed. i stock up on about $100 worth of coolant each time I'm at tradeschool, only buy the 90 and 100 (100plus for me, 90 for everyone else lol). use it for my car, parents and bro's and mates. sell it to them for couple bucks more than what i pay and its all good :lol:

i use tectaloy 100plus. when i first got the car it was yummy rusty water. thats when it was reading 1/2 - 3/4 and was down about 1-2litres.

when i bought mine with the standard clutch fan, completely stock it sat at 1/2 to 3/4 on a hot day, but it was low in water. once i topped up the level it sat at the first mark (1/4) and never moved until i installed an electric fan, now it sits below 1/4 so i always turn it off, i leave it unless it hits half way, then flick the fan on til its at about 1/4. never had any issues with boiling or anything. my owners manual states that anywhere from 1/4-3/4 is normal operating temp depending on driving conditions and ambient temperature. so i guess if your sitting at lights idling non stop on hot days or hammering it up in the hills expect to see temps of 1/2 to 3/4 as it wont be able to cool that quickly. if you can keep it at, or below the halfway mark (if your gauge is accurate) then you'll be fine. if you are truly worried about it, get an aftermarket one as suggested.

sounds killer. if you want a strong LSD go for a kaaz 2way LSD. itll set you back but can get ones for the r31 diffs. also, did you get a 31 diff from a sedan or wagon, the wagons ones are easier to fit as they have the seats for the rear springs, whereas the sedan diffs don't as they use coil overs in the rear.

posted in your for sale thread. would love the whole thing but have no room :jamie:

r31 skyline.

exact same as me. i was meant to roll my guards (if i can fix the guard roller i got here, or use hammer/wood) and then lower mine a couple inches. but instead i tidied up the shed a whole heap and pulled apart some of my rb30 lol.

needs more high and more pics of flex when you go off roading.

july i believe they said.

they use a guard rolling tool. google it.

its ready for everyone. so go :wub:

i love the feeling of having multiple types of one car on the property. ive had the experience with r31s, not corollas yet, lol.

i see absolutely no problems with that size tyre on that size rim.

get a diff from an r31 wagon. it doesnt need to be cut down, and from memory its close to a bolt in. i like the meshies. kudos. cheap things for a drift slut. commy wagon rear shocks from 1978-92 wags fit. VE commy springs, rears from memory, also TJ magna springs, again i believe from rear. thatll stiffen it up massively. can try some corona LCAs for bit of track. or there are some sigma LCAs that fit, not sure what sigma though, putting out about 2degrees neg camber, with longer tie rod ends. you may need to hunt around a wreckers a bit, spend some time to see what fits.

the hubcaps give it a camry look. its weird. but killer score for $100.