rian

I'll give you $3.50

Are you sure your drawings are correct? Isn't the line that extends off the control arm supposed to intersect a line that starts at the strut top and is perpendicular to the strut? I noticed the lines in your diagram that come off the strut top create an acute angle with the strut. I would have thought the 'virtual reaction' point would be outside the body of the car on the far side.

Maths.

^T3 are 34mm, AJPS are 40mm (with the option of 50mm for AE86 struts only).

Pretty sure AJPS make them in a couple of bolt spacings and heights as well. I have them under my AE86 struts.

I've done that a few times before, so annoying.

Yeah will usually get a bit of a voltage drop (maybe a drop of a couple of volts?) when the starter motor cranks over, but 6v is obviously too low. So you have a problem in the starter motor circuit between the battery and the solenoid. According to the KE70 wiring diagram, there are only a couple of things in that circuit that can fail, they are: - Fusible link AM1 (it will be one of the 3 wires that are crimped onto that big ring terminal at the positive battery post), just make sure it's not broken. - The ignition barrel. - The park safety switch (auto only) - The starter motor relay (apparently some models have this? I don't think I've ever seen it). - Wiring. It often gets brittle and breaks. I'd suggest you get a wiring diagram so you know what you're doing, and start at the battery end of the circuit, work your way through the circuit with a multimeter testing the voltage at the above points of interest in the circuit until you find where you are getting a voltage drop. Note: this is all assuming that there is nothing wrong with your battery or earth points, you should probably check those first because they are super easy. Here's the part of the diagram you want:

- What's the voltage reading on your battery? Try cleaning the batter posts and terminals/making sure they are snug. - Which terminal on the starter are you getting 6v: the main terminal or the solenoid terminal? - Have you tried jumping the starter motor with a screwdriver from the main terminal to the solenoid terminal? - Check your earth points, make sure you didn't remove any earth cables when you changed the starter motor.

My grandfather used to be a panel beater, he used to make panels from scratch. I should get him to teach me...

We need more of this. That guy is a champ.

The little white thing on top of the coil is the ballast resistor, it is usually on or near the coil in the engine bay:

What brand are you thinking of? I dream of walking into tradetools and just point at the closest filled rollcab and saying "I WOENT DAT ONE".

Where are you located? If you are in Brisbane I might give you a hand.

^ʞ©$ɟ YEAH NEW TOOLS ARE THE BEST.

Usually when the starter motor is cranking over, the ballast resistor gets bypassed and power goes straight to the coil. Then when the key goes back to the "ignition" position the current has to pass through the ballast resistor again. So check that the ballast resistor bypass circuit is not broken, or that you actually have one, and put a ballast resistor back in the coil circuit if you are running a points type distributor. Your uncle is correct. Here is a diagram to help you out, the little box on top of the coil with the black/yellow (sometimes black/orange) wire going to it is the ballast resistor: You are interested in the diagram on the left.

Wish I could afford a Dastun 1600.

KE70s suck, why do we even like them?

TA22's are awesome, post a pic!

What was that guy thinking spending $250000 on modifying his car?!!

lol, from now on Reed is known as "bubbles"

Nice wheels.

^Probably why you never fixed your Ruckus.

Man I wish I still had COD. I had to give it away because I couldn't stop playing it.

AE86 bars on KE70s: