rian

Shityeah! This thing looks ace. Is it running?

I just remembered that I saw my first Rolls Royce Phantom yesterday.... What the actual ʞ©$ɟ is that car? That is the biggest sedan I've ever seen! It rolled up next to my KE70 at the lights, the bonnet was almost as high as my roof what the ʞ©$ɟing ʞ©$ɟ! I cannot believe people buy those cars, how are you supposed to park it... anywhere... ever?

Alright peeps, this car is becoming a little bit more serious. I'm keen to fiddle with the cars suspension and (try to) apply some physics to see if I can get it to handle well. So here's some pics for now, I'm going to go outside soon and work on the car to get it roadworthy. All these parts will have to wait until after I get it registered. Got all 16 of my wheel nuts now, I can't believe how light these are. Also picked up the new 18mm Whiteline swaybar. This part is a bit of an experiment for me, I've never really put much thought into modifying suspension before but I'm interested in seeing what a larger swaybar will do to the handling. I also want to see if I can apply some of the things I've learned at uni to figure out what the swaybar is actually doing (ewww dynamics makes me cringe). Got myself an adjustable panhard rod from Whiteline too. And here's a pic of the 323 lip I bought off LittleRedSpirit. This lip is 30 years old and still brand new, was still in the plastic with the quality control slip and stickers when I got it haha! And a little test fit, I've got a pair of quadlights and honeycomb grill to go on as well. The chrome bumper will be painted black, and it will probably look a bit better with the 15x7s on there. Don't forget this car is at standard height, it will be coming down a few inches when the coilovers go in, should look mean.

^hahaha

Who has put in stiffer front or rear swaybar in a KE70? I've just ordered a Whiteline 18mm rear swaybar which I'm picking up tomorrow but I probably won't put it in the car until after I've driven it with the factory swaybar so I can make a comparison. I've been doing a fair bit of research, but I'm yet to do any calculations on whether or not I'm going to gain or lose traction from this "upgrade" (not sure if I could be bothered to either, or how accurate the calculations would be). Who has swapped to a bigger swaybar at either end of a KE and what change in handling did you notice afterwards? Also what size swaybar and what spring rate are you running. I've been thinking that an 18mm rear swaybar is going to decrease traction in the rear end by a smidge, which should make the car more fun to drive at the track (which is all I'm looking for really). So if anyone has fiddled with swaybars please post up your experiences, whether or not you gained traction, if the car became easier to corner etc. I'd be particaularly interested in hearing from people who have done front swaybar upgrades, I've heard of people removing front swaybars but haven't really heard much about people going for bigger front swaybars.

Brown.

The part numbers I quoted are for AW11 1985-86 models in America. I'm not sure if that corresponds to the same year model in Australia or if we got them a year later or something. So I'd definitely try and get the dimensions from the supplier before ordering.

I doubt VN Commodore inserts will fit, but go to the wreckers and check if they are the right size. Not all KYB dampers are available in Australia. So if KYB do make AW11 dampers, just get them from overseas. They will be the same price if not cheaper. But make sure you contact the supplier to confirm the size of the damper, I recall another member on here ordered AW11 dampers from overseas with the intention of using them in KE20 struts, only to find they were the wrong size when they got here. Edit: The part numbers I found for AW11 KYB Excel-G dampers are 363045 (front) and 363046 (rear). And they are not available in Australia as far as I know. They don't seem to come in the KYB AGX version either.

http://imaginate.redbull.com/videos/riding_film

Leo I was diggin on how your KE70 looked with the 323 Kamei lip so much that I bought one. Keen to fit it up for ultimate racecar appearance. For those who didn't see it:

Dunno I didn't cut them, but these ones are definitely 2 separate springs and they coiled the right way to seat properly, but they just don't fit. I've got some proper lowered 240mm 4.5kg springs to replace them with so I'll sell the Falcon springs to some goose who thinks cut springs will make their car gooder. Like this guy: LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL Nah just joshin'. I'm sure they work, but they're illegal (for good reason) and the spring rates are probably too stiff?

So I'm trying to get this thing on the road as soon as possible, that means getting it engineered and roadworthy. So today I fitted some standard rear springs to replace the chopped Falcon springs that should never have been in there. Here's why you don't cut your springs: From the photo they look like they had just fallen out because I jacked the car up, but they were sitting like that before I put the jack under there. So dodgy, they must have fallen out of the spring seat at some stage in the very limited driving this car has seen since it was trailered up here from Byron Bay. Also I put the factory seat back in this afternoon. Someone had damaged the first couple of threads in one of the seat mounting holes and I couldn't get the bolt to start in the thread. The seat bolt holes have a 10x1.25 thread so I bought a corresponding thread tap and used it to clean up the thread by turning it in from underneath the car. It worked a treat, the bolt now fits and I was able to put the seat back in. Tonight I picked up a Kamei lip from LittleRedSpirit, pretty stoked with it. Also got to see his very neat RA65, such an excellent car. Matt also taught me how to set up an idle-up system on my 4AGE which I am very interested in doing. Hopefully I'll have that sorted soon and I'll get some more pics.

Camera battery finally charged, here's some pics: 15x7.5 +10 Work Ewings and 15x7 +19 Hartge Somethings And the SAAS alloy wheel nuts:

I'm doing civil engineering, but we have to do a couple of courses in geotechnical engineering so that we know how to build shit so it's stable and safe.

Structural analysis, hydraulics of open channel flow, vector calculus and geotechnical engineering. I don't even want to get my marks back.

Thanks for the advice, I'll have to keep that in mind when I get wheel alignments/new tyres(which is soon). I don't even own a rattle gun... yet. But I've got a torque wrench and I always use it for wheels nuts. The knurl is great, the wheel nuts go so far into my new wheels that the knurl is the only part that sticks out. I wouldn't be surprise if I failed a couple of subjects, the failure rate for those subjects is up around half the class, which is madness.

So I finished my uni exams today thank ʞ©$ɟ. I was feeling like shit because I probably failed a couple of subjects, so to cheer myself up I headed into SCA and ordered some shit. Bought some wheel nuts so I can put my new wheels on my car. They are made of 7075 alloy (holy aerospace alloy batman!) and are crazy light. I feel like a goose spending $100 on wheel nuts, and that was cost price! But they are dope and I only have to buy them once, they look like this: Also ordered a Whiteline adjustable panhard rod and a Whiteline 18mm rear swaybar. Spent $310 on those. Cars are so expensive!!

Pretty sure you aren't allowed to keep the back seats in if it's now a 2 seater??

2 seater??

There's one of these at the Byron Bay/Brunswick wreckers, it looks to be in way better condition then yours though :P::

Good point, I couldn't remember whether it was toe in or toe out that helps with the wandering/tracking. After you said that I had to go and do some research. I don't know what it's set to in the blue car. I just got them to set it as they do for normal road driving, because not race car. Yeah I was thinking about changing the tyre pressure to see if that makes a difference, I might fiddle with it soon. Cheers for the advice :y:

Both pairs of wheels have 195/50, so I'll still be running 195 up front either way. I suspect an alignment with a bit of toe in will fix the problem.

Bought another pair of wheels, Work Ewing mesh 15x7.5 +10. Now I can run 195/50 all round which I am stoked about. However I chucked the wheels on my daily KE70 and the thing tracks/bumpsteers like crazy, I've never had that problem with the standard wheels. Is this a normal occurrence when running wide tyres? I should also add that I got a wheel alignment not too long ago.

Look in this diagram for "33283C BALL" it sits in front of the reverse light switch and pushes on the switch to activate it.