rian

You'll need to find somewhere on the carbs to hook the vacuum advance to.

^Yeah I've spoken to Craig at Performance Auto Inspections, he is mobile and was recommended to me by the guy who did my modplate. He's going to come out and do a safety check soon. $120 is what it's going to cost...

This is actually a good offer, you should seriously take him up on it.

No you can't drift on those leaf springs, because those leaf springs are connected to a car that makes 30hp. But seriously, you can get leaf spring reset to be lower and you can add extra leaf springs to stiffen up the suspension. It's not an ideal setup but neither is the sedan version's rear suspension. If you can make enough power to break traction, it will drift.

lol cheers man, but it's really not that good up close. I just got sick of sanding.

^As long as it's not too much effort to fix that's fine with me. I seriously hope I don't have to replace the front dampers or anything because they are only staying in the car for about 10 minutes after I get a roadworthy certificate as the coilovers will be going straight in.

Rust can eat a bag of dicks. But it's (mostly) done now, I've repaired as much as I could be bothered. If the remaining rust doesn't pass the roadworthy check then I'll fix that too, but for now I'm over it and just want to get it on the road. From this: To this: To this: I've spoken to the roadworthy guy and hopefully I'll get it booked in this coming week. Also replaced the heater tap (thanks Thomas if you're on here) and fitted the Whiteline panhard rod while I waited for the body filler to dry. Not much left to do to get it roadworthy I don't think.

^Fixed. Somebody make me a moderator already.

Let me get my car on the road first! Also, isn't the 10 year cruise soon?

Fusible links near the positive battery post will be blown. There are 3 fusible links off the positive battery terminal: AM1 (ignition I think), AM2 (accessories) and one for the headlights. I suspect AM1 and AM2 are blown, these feed power to every circuit in the car so that would explain why nothing works. Edit: You'll need to zoom in to see the diagram, you're looking for no. 20, located at C1:

Just acrylic, but it had to be mixed up.

Almost finished my terrible rust repair, went to Autobahn to get paint, $35 for a 300g pressure pack... far out brussel sprout.

Quit teasing!

yolo

Hi there, You can redeem your JDM points at douchebagsareus.com.au, just follow the link to the Drifthack section and fill out the form that declares you've added "Japanese styled" parts to your ADM car in order to transport it back through time and space to Japan in 1983, altering history and proving that your car was in fact built in Japan and is therefore truly JDM. JDM points can be used to purchase street cred and/or bragging rights, alternatively you can set up an account with douchebagsareus.com.au to manage your JDM points. You can earn JDM points by adding JDM parts to your car, however JDM points can be deducted for adding non JDM parts to your car, the only way to negate the reduction of JDM points is to purchase roof racks and a flat cap. Examples of JDM parts are: - Chinese wheels - fake Bride seats - fake Takata harnesses - fake steering wheels - Taiwanese reproduction parts - Huffy sliders - hang rings Examples of non JDM parts: - things that don't look cool, regardless of where they're made We hope this has been helpful and thanks for choosing JDM! Go ʞ©$ɟ yourself.

^The idle-up/cold start thing is operated by the coolant temp and it was too much effort to run the coolant lines to the throttle body. The metal coolant lines need to be shortened when you put the 4A in RWD format, and when you shorten them you lose the pipes that take coolant to the throttle body. Doesn't matter, still starts on cold morning so it's all good.

Oh right, I wasn't sure if you were talking about the yellow one or the one pictured above. That one above is dope.

vacuum leak. If you haven't already blocked off the idle-up system on the throttle body then scroll through this to find out how: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/56218-rians-ke70/page__st__360__p__644229 If you have already blocked off the idle-up system then you should pull your inlet manifold off and check your gaskets.

Is this the gold one you bought?

I did a whole lot of research a few years ago, I was planning on getting a 70s Honda monkey but for some reason that I can no longer recall I decided against it. I seriously wish I bought one. Have you spoken to Traffic and Main Roads about getting it registered? They probably have some ridiculous requirements to get it on the road.

^Sure can. As far as I know, if it was made before a certain year you don't need a compliance plate to get it rego'd. But after that Honda started putting compliance plates on them. Edit: Anything after 1976 needs to have a compliance plate.

Supercool! Did you wire up all 4 headlights? Does it blow fuses or anything? Having all the lights on at once would pull close to 20amps.

I reckon it looks amazing exactly how it is. Would look boss with a chrome bucket headlight and a single mirror or something.

How much did you pay for this? Sell it to me! Edit: seriously gimme dat