rian

The RCAs are good, they're black anodised 6061 alloy and they come with the correct size high tensile bolts. I've seen RCAs custom made (home job) from low grade alloy, they were pretty banged up because the alloy was soft. If I were making them I'd make them from 6061. Would be way easier to just buy them haha! Also installed my fixed back seat this afternoon... SO. MUCH. BETTER! I'd never had a proper seat before, the car feels way better to drive. Before I used to think the 5kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm rear springs were soft, now I realised that it was just the springs in the factory seat that were soft! Only problem is it's not an ADR approved seat, so I either leave it in and cop a defect notice at any time, or leave it out and just take it to the track on the back seat and install it there, which is what I think I will do.

Dope steering wheel!

4AGZE - the Z stands for zzzzzskids!

I'm also interested in getting some info.

SCHWEEEEEET!

Yeah man let's hit the track! Are you looking to drift events or sprints? And how do you rate the RSRs? My alignment is 9000mm out on everything. I'll be getting the wheel alignment sorted soon, I'm going to go for the specs off the AJPS website: 3.5 caster 2mm total toe out - 2 camber But I'm getting an infrared thermometer soon so I can check my tyre temp distribution and then change the camber to suit. Dude I will take those stockos! Swap you a 6er for them?

It's a t18 rear bumper bar by the looks of it. You got it for cheap!

Dude nice front bumper by the way! haha Why don't you chuck it on the rear?

Ahh cool. That's good that you got the correct brake pads. Yeah the braided lines are well worth it, if you went to Repco and priced rubber lines you'd find that they're well over $100 anyway, so may as well go the braided ones instead. HEL are ADR too! And I think the GT40 is for electronic distributors (12v) and the GT40R is for points distributors (6-9v).

How many Toyotas do you own!

I might have missed something, but are you using a GT40 with a points type distributor and no ballast resistor? That's probably not going to last too long before you burn out the points. Your brake setup is sounding pretty cool! I've got HEL braided brake lines and I really like them, pedal felt so much better with them installed although that could have just been that the brakes were bled after I installed them haha. How come you didn't go with A1RM pads over the HPX? I'd be keen to get your opinion on the HPXs though, I'll be looking for pads soon and QFM is what I'll be getting. Did you get them from GSL rallysport? And I see you've got the ADM AE86 calipers but you're using vented rotors, did you get special brake pads or something?

So here's the pictures I said I'd take: 195/50r15 Federal 595 RSRs on 15x7.5 +15 Work Ewing mesh. The tyres smell terribly similar to cow poo, I drove home with them on the back seat of my daily and it was a bad experience. This is the height the car sits with the coilovers in the front, a good height in my opinion. At this height I have good suspension bump and droop on the 5kg/mm springs, I'll calculate roll centres when I can be bothered. The T3 steering arms and AJPS RCAs. The steering arms are a fair bit thicker and heavier than standard arms, but they need to be because they have an extra hole in them which reduces the cross sectional area and therefore the strength. I'm not sure if I like them, in my opinion the inner tie rod hole is almost unusable because of how heavy the steering becomes, however I have a tiny 330mm steering wheel. I'll try a twincam wheel before I make a conclusion. And this is the front end, I'm yet to fit the Kamei front spoiler and paint the bumper bar black.

^Sure thing.

I'm pretty slack with updates lately, but recently I managed to: - installed the T3 steering arms, RCAs and coilovers - put my 4.5kg/mm rear springs in - get some RSRs put on my Work Ewings - get the exhaust tucked up higher - customise a seat rail so that I can now install my fixed back bucket seat Now I just need to bleed the brakes and get a wheel alignment. The steering is crazy stiff with the tie rods on the inner hole of the T3 steering arms, not sure if I will keep them like that. And the seat sits way lower than a standard seat and it's super hard to get in and out of. I'm eager to drive the car with these mods, this is basically how the car will stay, I haven't really got any other plans for it other than installing the 18mm rear swaybar and maybe some new brake pads. I'll try and get some pics of it tomorrow.

So lately I've been noticing the following things a lot more, probably because I'm getting older and these things are more common among older people. But seriously, what is the point of the following things and why do people pay money for them: - diamonds (I can fully understand industrial diamonds, but not the other kind) - personalised plates - weddings/marriage

I'm pretty sure every KE uses M12x1.5 wheel studs

When you go to QR holla at me and I'll come too.

^ yep, but going off the shifter retainer/base of the shifter, not the actual shift lever.

KE30/KE55 4 speed shifter ≠ KE30/KE55 5 speed shifter KE70 4 speed shifter = KE70 5 speed shift And toyodiy says a KE70 K40/50 shifter is the same as a T50 shifter.

Sooooooooo both my cars are on stands... the suspension swap didn't go as planned. I'll meet you guys on my pushbike.

Check the earth points.

AE86 steering arms don't fit KE30 struts as far as I know.

I'll bring the brown KE70 and if GJM85 comes that makes 3. Anybody else? Also I've got no idea where the Hamilton Hotel car park is, and if we're going to meet up somewhere we should give each other our numbers. I'll PM you Moe.

^That was great, I used to love that show.

Don't buy a turbo 4AGE if you're going to remove the turbo anyway, just buy a normal 4AGE. But the answer is yes, any 4AGE can be converted to RWD.