rian

Lost my shit:

^Yeah I've thought about that, I might look into it. In other news, I managed to ruin a Lukey catalytic converter in < 5000kms of driving, it should still be under warranty so I'll see if I can get it replaced. Only problem is it's a weld-in unit. I should probably install an air/fuel ratio gauge as well.

I would own the shit out of one of these.

The temperature isn't meant to change, that's the whole idea no eye deer.

Thanks for the info Altezzaclub. Also installed new Narva free-form, polycarbonate lens headlights in this car and new Narva headlight buckets because the new lights didn't fit properly in the old buckets. I need to fix it up though because at the moment the Narva buckets are mounted in the Narva bucket holders which are mounted in the Toyota bucket holders, it fits and works fine but it's just retarded. I'll get some pics because the words don't make any sense.

Ahhh what the ʞ©$ɟ! I just had to check which way positive toe is and it's toe-in. I told the guy 2mm toe-out, what a tard. Edit: just called JAX, they're going to fix it up for me later in the week. If you didn't point that out I would have never noticed, it drives really well even with the toe-in.

Just got home and checked the caster rods - maxed out. That's a good point about the camber plates Dave, I'm using T3 AE86 camber plates. I forgot that AE86 camber plates into an KE70 gives negative caster. I find it a bit strange that the KP angle changed ~ 10º on the left when camber only changed by ~2º on that side. I'm stoked with how the car handles now, but it still has some weird bumpsteer or tramlining going on.

Finally got a wheel alignment, couldn't get as much caster as I wanted with the standard caster rods, the value below is supposedly maximum caster. I'm assuming they put less caster on the right for safety reasons? And can someone in the know please tell me how they measure king-pin angle and what the included angle is? (click to make it bigger)

omg I love braided lines.

Cheers Paul! Yeah grabbed those wheels off that guy, thanks for sorting that out dude.

Just googled where Kenmore is, lol so far from you.

Yeah, just down the road.

drive over there and get it?

Awww yeahhh! Edit: brb finding suitable gif

Headlights and hazards: these don't pass through the ignition barrel so check your fusible links near the battery, then check all your fuses/check for power at the fuses and switches so you can find out where the circuit is broken. Corner lights, wipers, fan: these all come through the ignition barrel in the AM1 circuit, and since your car is running (and assuming you wired it correctly) you must have power at the AM1 pin on the ignition barrel, so check all you fuses/wiring after that. You should probably get a wiring diagram: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=108146

I do, this build is great. Those carbs look awesome.

This is the best KE30 I've ever seen.

I suggest you have someone turn the key while you continuously spray Aerostart/Start Ya Bastard into the intake and see if it will idle, but don't rev it. If it idles then you have definitely a fuel problem. Also having fuel in the rail doesn't mean your pump is working correctly. This is how the fuel pump wiring is meant to work: When you turn the key the circuit opening relay is triggered by the starter motor circuit and closes the fuel pump circuit, then once you let go of the key, the starter motor circuit is no longer triggering the circuit opening relay, but by now the FC circuit should be closed and takes over the role of triggering the circuit opening relay to close the fuel pump circuit. I suspect your FC circuit is not operating as it should, and you can check it by using a +12v source to trigger the circuit opening relay, or just wire the fuel pump straight to +12v temporarily.

You obviously have a fuel issue. Start at the injectors and work your way back to the pump checking all the fuel system components. Make sure you have fuel pressure, that your injectors are pulsing, that your fuel pump hasn't fallen off it's bracket, that your fuel pump actually works etc. Edit: just re-read your last post, do you mean carb cleaner or some other flammable aerosol/aerostart/start ya bastard? All the carb cleaners I've come across cause the engine to stall rather than actual combust and make the engine run.

Don't listen to Reed :harhar: Those clear plastic fuel filters are for low pressure fuel systems, you're using a VN fuel pump which I'm pretty sure is an in-tank, high pressure EFI pump. Basically your whole fuel system is high pressure so you need to use a proper EFI filter, make sure you put it in the right way. You should really hook up a engine warning/diagnostics light and run the engine in diagnostics mode to check for error codes. Also check that your circuit opening relay (for the fuel pump) is working correctly. The relay works off 2 signals to close the fuel pump circuit, one signal is from the starter motor circuit while the engine is cranking, and the other is when the 'FC' pin on the ECU earths out. The FC circuit could be causing your problem.

I'm a bit confused as to how that would work on an AE86, so it's a smaller diameter bolt but with a cam in it? Wouldn't that only increase camber by the tiniest little bit on an AE86, like .2 of a degree?

If you enter I'll come watch. I don't think my car will drift with the crappy open diff.

is there a race on?

What do you mean by "camber bolts"?