rian

Looks like something you would retrieve from a sunken shipwreck.

Ohhh you mean the shopping trolley, I didn't even see that the first time. Would be good for getting your groceries home.

I don't think you could put that car on a KE70, that thing probably weighs over a ton.

yes

Ended up ordering this hefty 3 tonne fella: Less than $200 and the longest warranty I could find. Hopefully I never have to buy another jack unless it's an alloy one to take to the track.

Yes, don't listen to anyone who says otherwise (because the fine is like one bazillion dollars and it's simply not worth the risk).

Buys torque wrench, doesn't lose legs.

Next time you start it up:

Reed you're pretty mediocre

ERMAHGERDD KAN BRAWWWK But this video is actually good, his driving and his car are both wild.

First thing I'd check is that you have a "start" signal from the ignition barrel to the circuit opening relay for the fuel pump. Then I would check for vacuum leaks, it's either that or the timing which is causing the high idle rpms.

So the old O2 sensor was definitely stuffed. Plugged the new one in, AFR gauge now works (see videos), instead of just sitting on "lean", and the car no longer smells like fuel. This is the AFR gauge at idle: The AFRs jump back and forth as the ECU does it fuel trim thingy. This is the AFR gauge while driving: If you turn up the volume you'll be able to tell that the AFR is lean under light throttle then goes rich under heavy throttle, whereas it just used to always read super-lean. Sorry about the shitty phone videos.

yeah 40PSI is normal

dope.

Also the car is massively down on power about 2500rpm, it has a weird flat spot and sounds really funny. I suspect the catalytic convertor has actually melted so much that it's blocking the exhaust, lol my car is the ~best~.

Just did a diagnostics check, got codes 5 and 9. Which seems to be O2 sensor and speed sensor. Going to get my new O2 sensor now, I'll post up if makes any difference.

Why thank you kind sir.

Took photo, upload photo.

I dun geddit?

Edit: I read it wrong the first time. Like $10-$50 if that, I got my last door for free...

Ok I fully understand how both sensors work, I think I'm just not explaining my problem very well. If you look at the 2 plots that Dave posted, you'll see both sensors will have a voltage output for fuel ratios between 10:1 and 20:1. The wideband is linear, the narrowband is piecewise/shit. However despite being shit, the narrowband still has a voltage output for any of the fuel ratios, and notice there is ~1 volt difference between rich and lean. My problem is that my O2 sensor seems to always be reading ~0.2 volts, which is lean. If it were working properly it would at least be constantly jumping back and forth between 0.2v and 1v at idle (ECU doing it's trim thing or whatever). So I assume it's stuffed. Anyway, there is a new o2 sensor waiting for me at work. I'll plug it in and see if it makes any difference and I'll post up the voltage outputs here.

The catalogue didn't specify whether you could unscrew the sensor from the bit that bolts to the manifold, so I'm waiting for mine to arrive so I know for sure. If it is the screw in type I'll order another one ;). I think they're about $50

Ordered O2 sensor. Also would anyone be interested in swapping something I can daily for my blue KE70?

Exhaust heat shield is awesome