rian

Of course it has a Byron Bay sticker on it.

I had a SAAS boss kit in my KE70 and it seamed to fit fine. Don't Autotecnica make those solid-style boss kits as well?

I had to google/youtube this. It's weird that this exists.

Getting good tyres is the best mod ever.

It's better than it was, but I think I need to get on a track to notice the difference. The front end feels solid, but the rear end still feels a bit wonky, especially straightening up out of corners: on the few corners I've tried the car feels like it wants to kick back the other way on the exit even though the tyres never broke traction. It feels like there is a lot of flex in the 4 link and tyre sidewalls, so that will be the next thing I upgrade. Or it could just be that I don't understand how driving fast works.

Engine: so rad. Crash: so not rad.

So I finally did some work on this thing! I went to put the rear swaybar in - chassis mount bushes that came with the bar were the wrong size. Bought some Superpro bushes that were for the front swaybar of an AE86, trimmed them down with an angle grinder so they weren't as tall, and what I ended up with was a correct size bush and a whole lot of what looked like silly string. Sorry for the shitty photos, couldn't be bothered jacking the car up again. I got the 595 RSRs put onto the Hartges (excellent tyres for the money). I bought some new 800MPa bolts for the steering arm-rca-strut connection. Because the T3 steering arms are so thick I had to get new bolts. You'll see why in the pictures. Old bolts: New bolts: Steering/suspension setup: I also replaced the crappy lower control arm and tension rod rubber bushes with Superpro ones. Now I want to replace every bush with Superpro bushes. LCA and tension rods out, then removed the old bushes (thank ʞ©$ɟ I have a bench vice) New bushes: I forget to get a photo of the new bushes installed, it wouldn't be that cool anyway, they just look like bushes. And I got a pic of my new 200 cell metallic race catalytic converter, this was very expensive.

LOL! not you, I was talking about Zowie. What are the specs on the new one Zowie? It looks pretty wild.

You're a slut.

So this jack turned out to be rubbish. Ever since I bought it it has been hard to let the jack down, it goes up fine but to bring it down you have to grip and twist the handle so hard that when the release valve does finally let go the whole car comes crashing down in a dangerous manner. Then today when I was about to take my car off stands, I put the jack under it, I jacked it up and then I couldn't let it down. It's like the release valve was jammed. So I had my car stuck up on the jack with no way to get it down, in the end I got a Stillson wrench on the end of the handle and struggled but managed to let it down. I'm sending it back for a warranty claim, if I ever have to buy another jack I'm getting a brand name one.

What do you mean by "the ECU shuts down"? Do you mean the car just won't start or there is no injector pulse or something?

I forgot how good this car is: it's definitely worthy of car of the year.

^that was nuts.

YES TOOLBOX! It even matches your car!

You guys should have seen how many mistakes I made figuring that out, I'm still not even sure if it's correct haha. KE70Dave or Philbey will be able to tell us ;). The Whiteline technical info I found says I should be looking at about 200% increase in torsion.

Engine swap?

So the old catalytic converter is out, and it had actually exploded. There was still a big chunk of catalyst inside that was the perfect shape to block the outlet of the cat, so when the exhaust gases had enough velocity they would push the chunk of catalyst into the outlet and it would act like a plug, I'll get a pic of it soon. Now that the new metallic cat is in it goes much faster and doesn't rattle, but there is probably still little pieces of catalyst throughout the exhaust system. In other news, I'm about ready to put my 18mm Whiteline swaybar in so I did some quick calculations to figure out how much it will increase the stiffness of the outside suspension. Calculations for old swaybar: radius = 0.0065 m yield stress ≈ 300*10^6 Nm^2 polar moment of inertia = (π/2)*r^4 = 2.804*10^-9 m^4 Torsion(max) = polar moment of inertia * yield stress / radius = (2.408*10^-9)*(300*10^6)/0.0065 = 129.41 Nm Calculations for new swaybar: radius = 0.009 m yield stress ≈ 300*10^6 Nm^2 polar moment of inertia = 1.03*10^-8 m^4 Torsion(max) = (1.03*10^-8)*(300*10^6)/0.009 = 343.3 Nm So by my shitty calculations I should get a 165% increase in torsion with my new swaybar, and if I could be bothered to measure the lever arm of the swaybar I'd tell you what that means in terms of vertical force; maybe I will tomorrow. I'm going to try and go into a bit more detail in suspension properties/characteristics soon, and see what I can learn. I want to make this thread a bit more technical, which may be beneficial if I ever get to the track haha. And for anyone who cares, I found a neat little chart of torsion increases for swaybars of certain sizes: http://www.whiteline...ns/010barup.pdf

Solid effort. Save money on beer; spend it on cars.

I will come.

The SCA/Blackridge ones are not what you're looking for. However the Stanley ones at Supercheap are often on special for $399, down from $699, and they are 2.5hp, 200lpm, belt-drive, 50ltr tank, cast iron head, good duty cycle etc. When they are on special they are probably one of the better deals around.

Have fun: Electrical_Wiring_Diagram__AE86_.pdf Note: this is the electrical system for bigport 4AGEs from AE86s, I'm assuming that's what you have.

I want to say something like "that's unlucky" or "that's unfortunate", but that is not the case. However it does suck balls. What does a red label refer to? Do you just get a RWC to clear the defect?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=UNIVERSAL+PRODUCTS&model=SWAY+BAR+-+MOUNT+BRACKET&model_final=SWAY+BAR+-+U+BOLT+MOUNT+BRACKET&vehicle=ALL

Is it going to become an LSD? By the way, you can buy bolt-on swaybar mounts from Whiteline.