rian

ditch SC, acquire turbo.

Duration and lift should be stamped on the back of the cams

What are normal oil temps in 4AGEs (or any engine really)? I wired up my oil temp and oil pressure gauges yesterday: the oil temp seems to sit between 100˚C and 110˚C while driving, the oil pressure is about 10PSI at idle (I suspect the gauge has a shitty earth, the needle is pretty erratic) and the water temp is pretty much fixed on 88˚C.

So basically it's not as fast as you thought it would be?

But what happened to the Chaly? Did you sell it to get the this? And how does it go with the Lifan? It looks like it would flip over and soon as you turned the throttle lol.

Would you get outta here with your weird motorbikes already, geeez. But really, it's cool as. I've wanted one of these for a few years now, they look like so much fun.

Ordered a new cat, getting a Redback metallic 200 cell/inch unit this time, this one cost 3 times as much as the old one but because Redback are awesome they're going to do a deal on it, so it won't be much more expensive then the old Lukey ceramic rattlebox. Also bought a narrowband air/fuel gauge for $10, it's been on clearance for like 2 years because it was hiding in the back of the display cabinet at work, score.

You know how big the fine is for that right? Thanks for the info there Altezzaclub. OK so a narrowband sounds like it should do the trick, I guess I don't really need to know what the AFR is I just need to know if it's lean, rich or stoich. The $20 unit from work should do the trick. Yeah, I called the company that I got it from, the guy I spoke to was super nice. I didn't want to do a warranty claim on the shitty ceramic Lukey cat so he said he would do me a deal on a 200 cell metallic 2" Redback cat: $85 instead of $140. I'm still annoyed because I now have to spend more money on another cat and then pay someone to weld it in.

What is FD?

I'll be there on Sunday, I would go on Saturday but I have to work. I don't think I could handle two whole days of trendy bogans anyway. Yeah the heat last time was terrible, if it is sunny this time I'm defs going to bring a bucket hat. What day are you going out there Leo?

Anybody going to Matsuri at QR?

Man that sucks, is it fixable?

Okay people, so after less than 5000kms my catalytic converter failed and since I'm fairly new to cars and equally new to money, I'm seeking some advice before I go ahead and replace it to likely have it fail again. The details: - The car is a KE70 with a 4AGE bigport - The engine is standard apart from the 4-2-1 headers and 2" zorst. - The catalytic converter is straight after the headers, there's probably 2 meters of headers between it and the engine. - The catalytic converter is a Lukey brand, ceramic type. What happened: - The car developed a weird rattle, then I discovered the rattle was coming from the cat, then recently it became very loud and annoying. Plus sometimes it smells funky What could have cause it, these are the only things I can think of that may have caused it: - I ran some LiquiMoly injector cleaner through it about a month ago, the bottle said it was safe for use with catalytic converters - I did put some of that shitty 10% ethanol fuel in it once - My AFRs could be wack, and it does smell like it's running rich. - I occasionally rev the shit out of it, and I did drive up a twisty hill for a good minute with the engine constantly between 4000 - 7000rpm. The cat is still under warranty, but to get a new one I have to pay for the replacement initially, get it fitted and have the old one removed (it's a weld in unit), then send the old one back to Lukey for a warranty claim, they check it out and then they refund me the money that I initially paid for the new one. OK so that sounds like a shit idea considering the first one failed in about a months worth of driving. So that brings me to why I'm posting this thread. What I want to know: - What brand and type of cat are you running in your car? I'm thinking of going with a Magnaflow. - Do metallic cats handle heat better than ceramic cats? - Is it likely that having a rich AFR killed the cat (lol) and should I install an AFR gauge? - If the answer to the above question is yes, is it worth while getting a wideband or will a cheapo narrowband do the trick? (there's a narrowband sitting at work at the moment on clearance for $20 and I'm considering buying it) Sorry for the long post. tl;dr: What is a good brand of catalytic converter and should I get a wideband or narrowband AFR gauge?

wizard

Is this all you need to get it driving?

If they are both Borgwarner diffs they should swap over with no problems, check the diff code on the firewall and match it up with this: The 'translator' for diff codes is as follows: First digit: A = 138mm B = 145mm C = 6.25" D = 6.62" E = 7.1" F = 7.5" G = 8" H = 9" J = 9.25" K = 9.5" L = 10.5" M = 12.5" N = 13.5" P = 14" Q = 12" R = 162mm S = 6.38" T = 6.7" U = 6" V = 10.6" W = 15.5" X = 142mm Y = 158mm Z = 202mm - no ring gear = FWD Second, third digits: 01 = 3.30 02 = 3.36 03 = 3.545 04 = 3.556 05 = 3.70 06 = 3.889 07 = 3.90 08 = 4.111 09 = 4.222 10 = 4.375 11 = 4.444 12 = 4.625 13 = 4.79 14 = 4.875 15 = 5.125 16 = 5.286 17 = 5.60 18 = 5.714 19 = 5.833 20 = 6.167 21 = 6.667 22 = 6.78 23 = 6.833 24 = 7.64 25 = 4.556 26 = 5.571 27 = 3.364 28 = 4.30 29 = 4.10 30 = 3.727 31 = 3.909 32 = 6.591 or 4.807 33 = 7.503 or 5.583 34 = 6.781 or 4.786 35 = 7.636 or 5.60 36 = 4.778 37 = 3.583 38 = 3.417 39 = 3.154 40 = 5.375 41 = 3.308 42 = 6.500 43 = 3.550 44 = 3.214 45 = 3.533 46 = 2.928 47 = 3.944 48 = 3.356 49 = 3.729 50 = 3.400 51 = 3.736 52 = 3.722 53 = 3.250 54 = 3.941 55 = 3.333 56 = 2.821 57 = 4.058 58 = 3.238 59 = 3.234 60 = 3.519 61 = 2.724 62 = 2.892 63 = 2.655 64 = 4.312 65 = 3.837 66 = 3.071 67 = 3.526 68 = 3.095 69 = 4.176 70 = 5.857 71 = 2.962 72 = 3.949 73 = 4.285 Fourth digit: 2 = 2 pinions, not factory LSD 3 = 2 pinions, yes factory LSD 4 = 4 pinions, not factory LSD 5 = 4 pinions, yes factory LSD Information sourced from: Toymods.org

KE70 alloy rads are on ebay, they would be close?

Dave do you understand this "shear free" crap that some oil companies are claiming? I realise it's impossible for a viscous fluid to experience zero shear stress when in motion, so what do they mean by "shear free"? Is it just really low shear? Because that would be cool.

4A is just too gnarly. Nah I'm not sure, it's either just a shit catalytic converter or my AFRs are wack.

http://www.rollaclub...qld-mod-plates/ Costs $150 - $200 to get it engineered in QLD. Cheaper than the eleven hundred billion dollars you would probably have to pay if you ran into someone and your insurance company decides they don't like you anymore because you didn't get pay to get a piece of metal stuck to your firewall.

details on the AE71 wagons? What's left in them?

Holy shit those wheels are ace!

Fixed