rian

Is it the middle of the flat plate part of the engine mount (the plate that actually bolts to the engine) that is the bit getting in the way? If so just cut that shit out, the left hand side standard mount doesn't have it: Or just remove the oil take off plate, but you will need a different union bolt (union bolts for oil take off plates are longer).

An LFA just passed my house: it was going about 20km/h but sounded like madness doing it.

Does anyone on here have a Costco membership?

yeah I think it's a screw in one. I'll check when I'm at work next.

Yeah whatever dude.

BTW I'm going to order an O2 sensor soon, do you still want one?

That inlet pipe is dope!

Hoppers Stoppers do a kit (look at the list on the left and click "Toyota") : http://www.hoppers.c...2007/index.html

^ that plus a white AE82, an MX83 and an RA60. All in ~3 years.

^Would be super cool, but I don't see how that will help unless I had a bung welded in for the sensor. I understand what you're saying about widebands being much more accurate but I figure that I don't need to know the exact AFR, I just want to see what my O2 sensor is doing, and the O2 sensor is a narrowband sensor so I see no problem with putting a narrowband gauge on it. Here's what I'm actually trying to achieve: Assumption: Engine only has AFR problems during closed loop operation. Hypothesis: O2 sensor is faulty, and reading the air/fuel mixture as lean when it isn't. The ecu receives the "lean" O2 sensor signal and adds more fuel in the closed loop circuit - engine runs rich. Test: 1. add narrowband gauge, allowing me to read the signal from the O2 sensor while the O2 sensor is still wired to the ecu. 2. check O2 sensor voltage with multimeter Results: 1. dial on narrowband gauge doesn't move until engine is hot, then when it's hot it reads as "lean" at idle and under full acceleration through the entire rev range, then "very lean" when I back off. 2. at idle (when hot) the multimeter reads between 0.5 and 0.6 volts (stoich), as I accelerate the reading goes down to 0.2 to 0.3 volts (lean) [possibly in open loop]**. Taken from Wikipedia: 0.2 volts = lean 0.5 volts = stoich 0.8 volts = rich Conclusion: - I suspect the O2 sensor is stuffed and the gauge is also shit, or I have a problem with my wiring somewhere. What I'm going to do: - Replace O2 sensor, they're only $40 anyway. - Retest the O2 sensor voltage with multimeter, if it's still says I'm running lean then my assumption was wrong and I'll look at a wideband so I can track down the problem. **This is why I think the O2 sensor is faulty, the engine is meant to run rich in open loop because of the fuel map, but the sensor reads as running lean. Either the sensor is stuffed, the injectors/fuel pressure are/is not right or I have a massive vacuum leak (not likely as the idle is fine).

The needle sits just above the bottom of the "lean" scale under all throttle and rpm positions, then when I back off the needle jumps to half way on the lean scale. At no point when I was driving it did it get anywhere near the stoich or rich part of the gauge, which I thought was a bit weird considering how much the car smells like it is over-fueling. I know the gauge definitely works because it will pick up the potential difference between my skin and the negative battery terminal, it says I'm running stoich haha. Yeah there is an 02 sensors wired in, but I'm not sure if it is actually working. I need to test it with a multimeter.

I installed the AFR gauge: it reads that the engine is running very lean but the exhaust smells very rich, I suspect the 02 sensor is faulty and that would explain how I managed to melt the catalytic converter. I'll test the 02 sensor tomorrow with a multimeter but a new sensor is like $40 from work so I'll probably replace it anyway, apparently they're meant to be replaced every 50000kms or something.

How many cars have you owned now?

Light-weight

1am is definitely too late to be at uni.

12am is too late to be at uni.

^maximum cool

Well the problem has to be somewhere between the fusible link and the dash controls, there's only 1 wire that supplies power to all the things you mentioned. You'll need to get a multimeter/test light and find out where the circuit is broken.

Check the fusible links near the positive terminal on the battery. There are 3 wires there, and one of them powers all of these things.

Sorted out the earth on the oil pressure gauge, it now sits at about 30PSI at idle when hot, but it doesn't get over 65PSI no matter the revs, must be because of the pressure operated sandwich plate for the oil cooler (which is just plumbed straight back into the sump, oil cooler will be going in soon. Hopefully it will keep the oil temps at ~100˚C).

I don't know how to fix shit, I just wanted to post a picture of Vanilla Ice for the lolz

If there's a problem, yo I'll solve it...