Killswitch Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 I'm up for a group buy at some stage ;) I didn't know such modification existed, pretty cool stuff. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7shades Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Kick it to me! kick it to me! Â I'm up for two if we're getting serious... Â Isn't it amazing... My R32 has the most complicated, convoluted expensive-to-recondition viscous 7 plate LSD and yet some bloke in a shed came up with this. Which for all intents and purposes probably does just as good a job. Â KISS principle at work..... :lol: Love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Hi, Ok have information on spring settings for a DIY unit. A commercial company makes these things ion the US and offers 3 different spring tensions. They are as follows: Gold springs(Street/Race) - 60lb/in Green springs(Full Race/Hard Core) – 120lb/in Red springs (street) - 20lb/in  So I think we should build them with these springs as they are proven. But there kit even base kit comes with Gold springs none come with red ones standard have to ask so maybe we should just only look at the green and gold ones.  Also the flatter the surface on the spider gears the better it will work and grip in. Some gears have a lip on them this must go. So to install can grind or lathe off. I would prefer lathe but by looking at pictures well doing it on the side of a bench grinders wheel will make it flat enough and emery paper it smooth. As on the installations of the kit you can buy it says tolerance between LDS unit and spider gears are 0.003 – 0.005 inches with the clip on holding it together when installing it so if we make a kit to suit a 30,50,55,70 BW diff if your diff is old worn can see it being a problem.  Also the kit recommends 300-500 miles travel before it beds in and you will get full grip so don't expect results straight away.  Also with the spider gear shaft I don't know if it has to be a tight fit or a lose fit around it so if some one owns a unit and wouldn't mind removing it from the diff to get some measurements it would be much appreciated.  Also this device puts load on the side of the spider gears it is said to so far been tested up to 120,000 miles with no damage. But I could see low oil or old oil in the diff and this device to kill it fast.  More development work to be done here yet before I make a proto type but I will hopefully get a price on springs and billet metal to suit today. Probably just mild steel for initial usage.  Also If I can get a KE70 diff centre for my proto type unit I can get it tested in a KE70 running a 4agze with 12PSI boost so well find out how good it is. As I can see us still breaking diffs as we are adding a part to a small diff so not in turn making it stronger but stressing it more. But only time will tell.  Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 I'm currently running a CIG locker, which I constantly get sick off for normal driving, so I would be very interested in one of these units. ;) Â I could provide you with a ke55 BW centre for a prototype and can test it in a turbo 4k ke55 running 12psi!! obviously I would be happy to pay for materials needed for the prototype. Â Lemme know if you want me to send you one!! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Tas Rx, Ill get prices on metal, springs and getting one machined. Ill let you know as posting a Diff centre from Tas might be costly. Ill see if I can get one localy and ill find out more for you. Â Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 frieght wouldn't be too bad, about $20 each way I reckon which I would be happy with. I would take the crown wheel off it to reduce the wieght a bit, which would have to come off anyway to slide the plates in. Â the only thing I'm trying to get my head around at the moment is how does the torque actully spread the plates?? It can't be by centrifugal force as the plates would spin across they're width (if you know what I mean)?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Spring prices coming as we speak. Have a place in Brisbane making me a quote on springs now. But I have an old KE20 clutch in the shed that might have suitable springs. Does anyone know the tension a standard clutch runs?  If postage is that cheap ill let you know soon about this project.  With the device it pushed agaings your spider gears using the springs. If you slowly turning and driving eg town or car parks it will let the gears turn and slip. If you drop the power to the ground since it is putting up wards of 280lbs of pressure on them they just both start spinning. Then the pressure stays there and once there going they keep going. I have seen one of these running 600lbs of force in one before so pending on what your doing harder or softer springs will be best. But this device simply makes the wheels continu spinning if doing a burn out but at slow speeds the tyres have more grip and force and slip. Hope you understand a bit better now..lol   Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Quote for springs: I went direct to a manufacture of springs and if I purchase an initial amount of 4 for a prototype the springs will cost $30 each then GST so a minimum of $120 for the springs. As for a small number they are hand made. If we then decide to make say 20 of these units we will need 80 springs so I got a price on a box of 100 as well prob need spare parts as well and the price drops to $3.65 per spring +GST. So if the trial goes well I have demand for them ill go out and buy more springs but on my limited funds that could take a while. Â Next a water main blew out side our house today so I haven't been able to get a quote on some steel billet to make the plates. But I am pretty sure I could find some thick scrap metal for the trial. Â Also I measured the springs in my clutch from the KE20 they are 23mm long roughly and about 14mm diameter. And are green in color if that helps. And I came across a LSD system like this in a datto and his springs measured 15.3mm dia and 25mm long so a spring out of a bigger clutch might be the go? Â Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Hi, Ok didn't have a spare corolla diff this arvo but I had a spare 1929 chev diff center so I have drawn a locker to suit it to give everyone a rough idea of it. Â This unit is 70mm long and 50mm wide and 11mm thick. The spring holes are 15mm diameter and the springs will locate into them tightly so will be drilled to exact same diameter of the spring. With two of these unit compressed into the diff center there will be a 2mm gap between both plates around the spider shaft. Now or spring length. The holes are at a depth of 8mm So 8+8+2=18mm. This is how long the springs will be when compressed. As this part is pushing out on the spider gears so it wont go in so the 2mm gap is ample. But remember this part above you need 2 of and springs to make the locker and this one is for a chev 1929 diff so don't go out and get one made for a rolla WONT FIT. As that is a demo. Â When ordering springs they want to know the tension at what length. So If I order springs 20mm long with 2mm compression I will need 70lbs. If I get 20mm springs I want the point where this unit will sit at close to there so assembly is easier and you not having to compress it say 10mm and springs are cheaper and there will be less chance of coil bind. Â So if the corolla housing will allow for it the springs in a KE20 clutch will be the right length for the job :lol: So if I can get 2 piece of scrap metal and a screwed rolla clutch I think I could make one of these for free to say $20 for the prototype. As there 23mm uncompressed so if I can get one in a vice and they compress say 5mm before bind I can use them as with a 2mm compression in my design they will be miles away from bind. Â If this is possible to avoid making them with out buying springs I could make the blocks and buyer gets own springs or if they want really hard springs for racing i can put them in the direction of the maker for some one offs. Â Also for assembly in my design I have placed holes in the blocks to slide in bolts and over the bolts place some flat bar. So you can load springs clamp in vice slip metal over bolts to hold the unit shut slide whole unit into diff and then pop off metal and remove pins locker will release and presto easy install ;) Â Also if you don't remove the pin or bolt from the hole if you assemble this way your diff will blow and jam if pin falls out so remember to remove it!!! Â Cameron P.S. Soory for all my posts but just keeping everyone updated on this project and today I was stuck at home all day so went nuts and this was all that kept me busy..lol So design done now i need parts and a rolla diff :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smacko84 Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 sounds pretty impressive, ill be watching this thread for sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Hmmmm. Okay. Â Know people who've had these, and while good, aren't an LSD. Â They're sort of a somewhere in between an open and an LSD. Â Just remember, if they worked that good, manufacturers would be using them instead of the diffs they use now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 So whats does Mr Redwarf use for a diff in his KE25? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 So whats does Mr Redwarf use for a diff in his KE25? Â CIG locker if I'm not mistaken. Â I doubt one of these could compete with a multiplate mechanical LSD (or maybe even a viscous! :lol:) but I guess its better than nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 (edited) Yep, had a locker in for years. Â I did have a brand new TRD slippery center for the Jap diff, but I sold it many years ago sadly. Â Ben's right, it's better than nothing, but don't expect the miricle cure. Edited November 10, 2006 by Redwarf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7shades Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 I think this will suit my rally application perfectly. Mainly cos I can't justify spending more on a diff than the car is worth.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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