Taz_Rx Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 So i've made a little progress with this now. went to a wreckers to look for the above list of cars, found both an n14 with sr20de and a navara with a ka24e with the rsb07 cas. drew up these.... after some searching i found some wiring and pinouts for the ka24e and the colours match up..... the only thing i'm yet to work now is what's what with pin 22 and 31 as for 4+1 and 360°. noticed these pins seems somewhat similar in nissans so hoping you might know this owanf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 (edited) Interesting discussion in here, when i was running the haltech on my standard electronic distributor (suzuki G13a) i also had issues with cold starts and i suspected that 4 pulses for 2 revolutions on the crank was just not enough to get a good sync at cranking rpm... as for your cas up there, isnt one wire your trigger wire (x triggers per rotation), and the other wire is your home signal? (often just 1 trigger for TDC on cylinder 1) Edited June 17, 2014 by ke70dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I don't know about haltech's but with the wolf you can adjust the sensitivity of the input signal. As well as setting it very low/low/med/high you can use the 'auto level adjust' feature, which I have done. As I had a fair bit of trouble getting a steady pulse when I first got the setup running I had to set it to very low, but that caused high rpm triggering issues. Si with that feature turned on its at very low for start, switches to low at about 900 rpm, med at about 2500 rpm and high at about 4k rpm. The 2 trigger inputs are for the 4 points (soon to be 4+1), and then the 360 slots on the outsides of the discs pictured above. I'll only need to use the 4+1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 yeah i can't recall any settings like that in the haltech, i got stuck one day with wiring and threw the distributor back in, and haven't had a chance to put the haltech back in again. Why don't you use the 360 slots and the +1? Then you will have bucketloads of trigger points at low rpm as well as the home signal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Because the wolf (and probably any other ecu) couldn't comprehend that many trigger points. Trigger points and load points for tuning are 2 completely different things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 (edited) yeah I understand the difference between trigger points and tuning points. Sounds like the haltech E8 will accept 360, http://www.haltech.c...5_July_2008.pdf page 32 shows the built in trigger setups, "nissan type 1" i think is what you would select. You sure the wolf wont accept 360 points? Edited June 18, 2014 by ke70dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Not the v4 I have. The v4plus, v500, 550 etc can as a 'reference sync'. Actually found the last piece of my puzzle today....on my own hard drive of all places in a wolf help file with a load of pin outs of various cars. The pin outs for an s13 and s15 share the same pin numbers as the above ka24e list (22 and 31, 30 and 40) except the wolf files actually say trigger 4 pulse and trigger 360 pulse. Just need to get back to Hobart now where the car is to do a temporary experimental wire up and thinking I'll just spin the cas in a cordless drill to check it all works properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 Been doing some more reading on this. I have a much newer installation manual (v4.57) saved on my hard drive....... It states that pin 6 can be used for a sync and reference as "trigger 2", ie you can run the 360 slot trigger in through this. My original hard copy manual states pin 6 as the coil negative connection. Elsewhere in the newer manual it says to check this with the manufacturer (I'm guessing with a serial number) as to weather the ECU can accept this as "trigger 2". As mine was a very early version of the V4 I'm guessing mine would be setup for coil negative not "trigger 2". However, been a little bored at work tonight and be doing some reading. Found what might be a good reason why not to try and connect the 360 slot part of the sensor..... http://forums.hybrid...m-ems-released/ Sort of interesting reading. Considering I can get my sequential injection and multicoil spark from a 4+1 trigger I think I'll not both looking into the 360 sync any further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted June 21, 2014 Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 I think the post in here by "deviousKA" (about 75% down the page) sums up some issues as well. http://forums.nicoclub.com/new-setup-wondering-what-to-do-for-fuel-management-t254146.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Morning cold starting have got pretty bad lately. Managed to get it a fair bit better by swapping back to my reduction gear starter after a partial refurb, the motor contact circuit across the back of the solenoid was a but grotty so I gave that a clean up and its been pretty good for the last week. Hoping it doesn't start doing its old fault again which was just ticking after getting got. Also pulled the reluctor sensor out of the dizzy, gave it a clean up, slight file and sand a well as the 4 posts and reset the gap. Has all been working fine until trying to start it this morning at 1°c. So I've finally got around to doing some testing on this cas. First issue was the fact the stanza obviously spins its dizzy anti clockwise when a k one spins clockwise. Issue is the big window, if left the leading edge of that pulse would be 3-4° out. Pretty easy fix though, just flip the disc, after drilling a new key way hole in it. Then drilled the dual pulse hole, wired it up how I thought it went and stuck it in the cordless drill for testing. The trigger was very touchy, sporadic and saw it peak up to over 10000 rpm a couple of times. As it was by this stage midnight I left it for the night. the next day I decided to try wiring the trigger up to what I thought was the 360 pulse wire. Stuck it back in the drill and tried again....success!! Could get a steady pulse a low as 63 rpm (low as the drill would spin) but coil didn't fire until around 150 rpm. I did take a couple of vida of the hand controller but I'll have to upload those later. So really happy that I've got it working, one big step towards a sequential setup. What I wasn't happy with was what I discovered next..... When I was testing in the drill I noticed a bit of a wobble, felt like it had a bent shaft. Removed the shaft and stuck it in the drill again....it looked/felt nice and straight! So I think the issue might in fact be a slightly unaligned housing when the stanza top was welded to the k lower half. I'm hoping a mate with a lathe might be able to help me rectify this by cutting them apart again, ensuring the edges are flat and square and welding them back together. That'll mean the top of the shaft will need some machining to shorten it a little but I can deal with that. After a bit more tinkering I'm now pretty sure that the previous owner of this had never actually used it after making it for several reasons. 1 - the wobble. 2- the o ring was far too big to fit in the block and 3-the end of the shaft is very tight fitting into the top of the oil pump. Hopefully all of these issues can be fixed with the lathe and a few beers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 nice work mate, shame about the crap workmanship. I wonder if there is an easier way than a cut and shut to do the job, keep at it mate, will be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 I've got that modded K-magna one and a stock one, that I'm modding for the FJ. I'll take some pics with them side by side to show what's involved with doing that conversion. Side by side it seems a lot easier than rewelding the housing back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 What can you put the magna bits into the k housing our something Stu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 What can you put the magna bits into the k housing our something Stu? Nah, the magna body gets machined to fit in a K. Only difficult bit would be milling the oil pump drive. I'll get you some photos tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Cool thanks mate, keen to see them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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