Jump to content

Ke15 Sl Sprinter Thread...


Recommended Posts

I was trying to get pics of you, I only ended up getting 1, Man I could not stop laughing at the old girl, I was flashing you to get you to pull over too, I was following you from the raceview tavern and was even sitting behind you giving you the finger at the lights to winston glades :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Members dont see this ad
  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

POST THE PIC..lol

 

I can't belive you followed me that long.

 

I think I saw the flashes and was ah some twit likes my car and never noticed you.

 

I was in a hurry but forgot my DI box as a place I was meant to play bass so was in a hurry.

 

But after you followed me as far as you did I though you were going to follow me to my place so I also didn't stop.

 

And Red I like the rims. Real magnesium :P well at least VERY high content.

 

pitty I don't have the second set :D

 

Cam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello,

Update time :lol:

 

First off suspension: Not much progress here so nothing to post yet.

 

So that then brings me to the other issues. From my large list I have managed to fix:

 

 

- oil leak front harmonic balancer seal

- badly want to put in an over flow catch tank for radiator (fun not having one but prob a very sensible thing to add does help)

- drivers door hinge adjusted (I re-pinned but needs adjusting hard to close and not sitting right)

- Install after market cam a KE70 4K-C cam is SHIT in a 5K

 

So first off the oil leak. I did the cam at the same time as the leak so kill 2 birds one stone.

 

The oil leak was coming from the front seal around the harmonic balancer. One day I went for a 100Km drive in the KE15 and used 3L of oil :dance: Made my engine bay black so I had enough. Time to get off ass and fix it. But I though why pull down car and not do the cam. As a KE70 cam shaft in a 5K made peak power at 4 grand. Car on the 100km/h speed limit with low ratio diff in 4th was sitting on 4 grand the car drank fuel and was a torque weapon down low but nothing past 4 grand :( So I took a spare cam to iven tighe and got it re-ground to 154 spec. Can be seen on their page below:

 

http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

 

This cam is the same grind as the 424 cam but with not as much lift so I don't need to change my valve springs :blinks: Made life easier.

 

So got this ground and I took a spare 5K timing cover I owned to work and put it through the acid tanks cleaned it up like new :blinks:

 

So then to install a new oil seal. Now this is what was causing the oil leak why you say...

 

Well the 5K engine from factory has a thinner seal than a 3K or 4K motor. The seal also sits more forwards in the timing cover. So this motor once when new got all bed in with a 5K seal. Was re-built poorly (not by me) and they used the seal in the kit which was a 3K thick seal. This ran for a while but put an extra grove in the harmonic balancer :( So when I got the motor I saw this went oh not the right seal popped in a new 5K Toyota item.

 

LEAK the correct seal not has this wide groove it can't seal due tot eh 3K seal making it wider and adding another grove :( So engine pumped out oil. So When cover was cleaned up I popped in a 3K seal and all fixed not one leak. I will also note I polished the harmonic balancer shaft a tad to ;)

 

So cam went in and that fine and it was ready to bed in. Went well one minor water leak at first then all was good after fixing it.

 

Cam went much better power starts at about 3750 RPM finishes at 7000RPM. so cam works great on the highway.

 

I found idle bit rougher. With a KE70 4k-c cam in the 5K I was getting about 19-20 in of vacuum and with the bigger cam I now only get 11 inches :( But with old cam on the highway I would only pull 11 inches. Now with new cam WOW pulls 18 inches solid at 4000RPM so put foot down engine is running efficiently and zoom your gone. Car now goes off the speedo :blinks: Pretty quickly to I might add..LOL Car now pulls to 7 grand EASY as but the stock coil and ignition let it down starts to miss at high RPM :(

 

So I fitted a Accel super coil 65,000 volts to the car I got from a swap meet told it was a good working coil. YEAH RIGHT. Coil you could hear it shorting out inside the coil car barely run and I could only get 11,000 volts from it max :( Stock coil gave me 20,000 Volts so removed coil got angry threw it in the bin. So still looking for a better coil now :(

 

So while putting in a cam I also attached an overflow bottle made from a 600mL coke bottle :blinks: It works holds water etc etc.

 

Now for the

 

EPIC FAIL

 

Last weekend while driving out to Beerheads place to see him I was cruising along at 100km/H and BOOM the loudest bang I have ever heard. And all of a sudden the heater in the car went cold OH SHIT. Middle of no where the heater hose blew a hole pumping out all my engine water instantly :( car temp sky rocketed. I was lucky as I was 1 street away from Beerheads place so was near water :blinks:

 

Did a temp fix on hose at his place with some metal tube and more clamps.

 

But below is a picture of the section of blown pipe:

post-1811-1277558057_thumb.jpg

 

This pipe I bought from Supercheap 3 weeks ago to install my heater again. Tube had no nicks, tears, damage etc. But still blew. Brand is Gromet and it is SHIT. Single wall piss weak re enforcing crap. :(

 

So drove around for the week with the temp fix as well didn't leak etc. And on Friday just gone I decided to buy some better hose. I went to my mates shop he sells hydraulic line for trucks. I got 2 meters worth of hose suitable for hot fluids rated to 20 BAR at 100PSI. Should hold my 1.1Bar the KE15 has.

 

So this morning I decided what better time to install my new hose. well was I in for a surprise :(

 

I drained the coolant system and put in new hose clamped it up and then re-filled the coolant system. I noticed the drain bung in the bottom of my radiator had a slow drip leak ok have to fix that. But then I noticed a lot of White smoke coming from the exhaust :(.

 

So ran got a piece of paper and held it at muffler tip for 1 min. No black particles on paper after 1 min or oil residue or oily smell. But paper was WET AS :( Ten it hit me I blew the head gasket when the motor over heated :( FAIL.

 

so I went back tot eh engine and opened radiator cap yep every say second or so one small bubble would rise up :(

 

So pissed as I stopped the car and got stuck into removing the head. I timed my self took me exactly 28 min 4 seconds to remove manifolds, carbies, extractors, ignition leads, spark plugs, rocker cover, and head. Was quite pleased with my self.

 

To my surprise I found out this 5K I have is SHIT..lol In cylinder 3 just at bottom just above the piston at bottom dead centre like a section of the bore is missing :( But the head warped bad. cylinder 2 was squeaky clean from steam :( and it looked like in the past week after driving water pressure built up and pushed its way into cylinder 4 and would sit there. so it was a bit crap from thsi also :(

 

So in short I need a new 5K built fast..LOL

 

But for now I'll just fix cylinder head and re-install.

 

So Rung my mate who owns Precision Engine Reconditioning in Ipswich and got a good deal on facing the head flat again, 4 angle valve grind, crack test, all cleaned up, and ported :dance:

 

Head will be due back on this coming wed if all goes well :dance:

 

So this week my goal is to clean up the block neat as and get the engine running again by the weekend.

 

I am just so pissed this car has been running shit than great than shit then great JUST WORK DAM IT..lol

 

Well I shall keep you all posted on progress hope car goes again after I put the head on.

 

So now it is also time to get into top gear on building my 5K for this motor and collecting parts :dance:

 

 

Cheers

Cameron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know doesn't take much to warp an old alloy head ;)

 

But in good news picked up some oil today new oil filter coolant and 4 new lifters. When I was running engine with rocker cover off noticed some lifters not spinning :wink: so went today to get some new 3F Toyota lifters from the local parts shop.

 

Got the last 4 on the shelf (hasn't sold them since I bought the first lot to put in the 5K..LOL) so only enough to do 2 cylinders worth but WOW $15 each SHIT. Thinking I'll have to go the chev route for the next 5K build purely because there are more and there more on demand...LOL

 

Also noticed when pulling my 5K head off that I was running BPR5EY spark plugs for a flat top K motor WTF..lol So need to change to proper plugs with the 7mm long tip BUT What is the plug number for these plugs? I need a normal number so I can match it to a colder plug seeing my head will come back shaved etc.

 

But I also piced up this little beauty.

post-1811-1277722345_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1277722398_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1277722438_thumb.jpg

Yes it is a HKS K motor oil cooler plate thing. WIll need it for the next spiffy 5K I am building for the KE15. Is a thermo controlled one so lets oil warm before cooling think thermo stat is at 74 degrees C atm. But it is variable from a quick look I had. Came off a KP61 starlet in Japan with very low race KM can tell as it is also so clean..LOL

 

So this will match up well with my oil cooler new in box I got at a swap meet for $20 :laff:. Is a factory ford one NOS like 3 years old some guy had so now just to get rubber hoses but there easy enough to get.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you reface the lifters when you put in your new cam? Usually if the lifters aren't spinning the cam has lost its taper on the lobes from wear or not being run in properly.

 

The long nosed plugs are bcpr527y-11 or bcpe527y-11 from memory. No there really isn't any variety of heat range available in that style of plug.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know you're adept at picking up bargains here and there :wink: , but have a look at this website in the UK.

 

Their cheaper push on hose range is well priced and with the improving GBP to the dollar, well worth looking at, and remember you are paying VAT free prices. I picked up my thermostatically controlled set up on the AE86 through them. Very helpful with technical assistance too. Later when I realised I needed one different angle fitting, I couldn't buy one in Australia anywhere near the price even factoring postage. And it arrived within a week.

 

The downloadable catalogue on the website has useful technical info on the subject too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know you're adept at picking up bargains here and there :wink: , but have a look at this website in the UK.

 

Their cheaper push on hose range is well priced and with the improving GBP to the dollar, well worth looking at, and remember you are paying VAT free prices. I picked up my thermostatically controlled set up on the AE86 through them. Very helpful with technical assistance too. Later when I realised I needed one different angle fitting, I couldn't buy one in Australia anywhere near the price even factoring postage. And it arrived within a week.

 

The downloadable catalogue on the website has useful technical info on the subject too.

 

The 4age oil plate is already a thermostatically controlled unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But he stills need the various fittings and hose. The fittings can add up surprisingly quickly.

 

Edit: sorry just realised what you said. My RWD 4AGE never came with a oil take off plate. I did pickup an AE82 bigport Aus fitment one later on though which is banging around in the shed somewhere. Longtime since I looked at it, but I'm as sure as can be without pulling it out that it isn't thermostatically controlled. Perhaps your thinking of smallport ones?? Not familiar with those

Edited by parrot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you reface the lifters when you put in your new cam? Usually if the lifters aren't spinning the cam has lost its taper on the lobes from wear or not being run in properly.

 

The long nosed plugs are bcpr527y-11 or bcpe527y-11 from memory. No there really isn't any variety of heat range available in that style of plug.

 

hi,

I got the cam and the lifters were brand new items I put 1000miles on the lifters and put my new cam in. I asked at cam grinder he said oh the lifters will be fine wont need new ones.....

 

So hopping with new lifters this will be fixed. I could only see one from the il cap not turning when running so hopping ti is just the one. Might take a straight edge from work today to see if I have destroyed the lifters. Might have to get them re-ground.

 

As for spark plugs cool :wink: I shall go looking for a set of them. Might start with the recomended 5 and see how they go and take it from there.

 

Also as for my run in I did 30min above 2000RPM like you should again cam grinder told me to do that so should be run in fine.

 

As for oil cooler site Ill have a look into there stuff.

 

Also picked up more goods for the sprinter topday in the post so stay tunned :laff:

 

Cheers

Cameron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But he stills need the various fittings and hose. The fittings can add up surprisingly quickly.

 

Edit: sorry just realised what you said. My RWD 4AGE never came with a oil take off plate. I did pickup an AE82 bigport Aus fitment one later on though which is banging around in the shed somewhere. Longtime since I looked at it, but I'm as sure as can be without pulling it out that it isn't thermostatically controlled. Perhaps your thinking of smallport ones?? Not familiar with those

 

yeah i was under the impression that the 4age ones are a pressure based system? so when your reving it hard it flows oil to the oil cooler, then when your driving slow it doesnt?

 

just had a good read through this thread cameron, very cool car you have there.

 

such a shame about the 5k though, hope you get it back on the road soon:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well from the top...

 

Trev: Actually funny you mention the old owner. a week after having it on the road I looked up his address again and could only see his wife listed ;) THough He had passed. But went over anyway to show her possible him and both were still there :wink: And he loved it they were both nearly in tears and kept telling me I had done a great job was awesome to see it back on the road with the twin carbies etc all back on.

 

They asked lots of questions since he raced it a bit like is it fast win races in town etc..LOL Had to laugh. SO they throughly liked me taking it back to them was there for about 2 hours while they crawled over it I took them for a spin etc think I made their year.

 

Was funny at first I rocked up they couldn't see the car parked on the drive way and they though I was selling stuff took a bit to get them to come look soon as they saw the car they remembered :laff:

 

 

Love the car and I love that you showed the old owners how good it looks now. id be stoked if I got to see one of my old corollas all restored back to its original beauty, I'm sure you did make their year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But he stills need the various fittings and hose. The fittings can add up surprisingly quickly.

 

Edit: sorry just realised what you said. My RWD 4AGE never came with a oil take off plate. I did pickup an AE82 bigport Aus fitment one later on though which is banging around in the shed somewhere. Longtime since I looked at it, but I'm as sure as can be without pulling it out that it isn't thermostatically controlled. Perhaps your thinking of smallport ones?? Not familiar with those

 

 

yeah i was under the impression that the 4age ones are a pressure based system? so when your reving it hard it flows oil to the oil cooler, then when your driving slow it doesnt?

 

just had a good read through this thread cameron, very cool car you have there.

 

such a shame about the 5k though, hope you get it back on the road soon:(

 

Well people have said that when you turbo a 4age you have to take the thermostat out of them so the turbo has oil feed from start up, What is the point of have the oil cooler on a pressure system?

 

It would be open all the time if it was cold or hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...