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Matts Ke30......sr20det

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  • oh what a nissan feeling!
    oh what a nissan feeling!

    I am really happy with the setup, nothing hektic about the drive at all. Tyre is a 225/50/15 drag radial bfg. A 24" tire.  I'm really suprised how well they are hooking so will make it my goal to run

  • oh what a nissan feeling!
    oh what a nissan feeling!

    Nearly there, battery is a bit down on charge so no start today. Finished that steering wheel too, looks mint. Repco stock this zinc stuff, so put some in the oil to help the cams bed in Beer T

  • oh what a nissan feeling!
    oh what a nissan feeling!

    New engine mounts made.                     removed ready to finish weld    

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  • Author

its the ke55 booster with a vn commodore master in 15/16. the commo master can be had in 1" as well.

 

a small trap.

to run the commo master on the rolla booster you need to glue a small spacer into the master where the booster rod goes in, or the booster wont work properly. make it the same depth as the rolla master cyl. is from factory.

  • Author

Yep that's right, same pattern. Needs to be vn-ish model commo to be able to use the fluid reserviour from the corolla, later model vt ones bolt up to the booster as well, but the fluid reserviour is held on differently. The commo reserviour can be used but the lid is on an angle so it looks a bit unusual.

  • Author

Decided to build it my self, already in with too many $$$ on this diff.

Gears were the unexpected expense, should have just gone with 3.45s then i could have got 2nd hand ones.

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Nice build mate, took the time to read through the whole build.

Keep up the good work

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Thanks mate, I just started some more to keep me busy.

 

The diff is now at Altra9 to put the centre together, and new chromoly axles, chromoly m12x 1.5 wheel studs, ect?

 

The old diff is out with springs ect. Zorst is off. Id2000's are sitting in petrol so they stay nice. The gearboxen is on the floor as well, so stally can be sent off for adjustment. I am well into the minor changes that are happening to the rear floor as well, still a long way to go though with that, so decided i wont have time to build the diff, so drove it off to bris.

 

Spent a fair bit of time talking to Slingshot and then TCE about the stall converter, sending it off to TCE this week to get sorted.

 

Its all happening, the aim is to be back ready for the January powercruise.

 

 

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Just saw the diff in the same section. Semi tempted!

I've got a t series with mounts done for leaf but won't put it in until it's got discs on it. Probably looking at as much as you're asking just to do the disc conversion. :hmm:

Do you run just stock standard leaf pack as the lowering is build into the diff mounts? I've got a pair of inverted eye leaves i was just about to fit but know i can easily swap them for some stock packs with a mate.

I noticed you obviously don't stock rear shocks and have some different set of lower mount plates? Is that because the u bolts are too wide for stock ones?

Also what would need to be done tail shaft wise?

Lastly what does it weigh? I can see you've got scales handy lol. Will punch some digits into e-go and see what I'm looking at freight wise.

Cheers, Si

  • Author

Hey mate, my leafs have been reset to be lowered a fair bit, plus the 40mm on the diff. I don't have inverted eyes on mine though and they still have a bit of curve in them.

 

Yeh the u bolts are larger than the stock ones, i would think the factory spring plates could be re-drilled to suit, if not most utes run the same size u bolt that is required. My spring plates are off a mazda b1800 but as you noticed they use the pin type shock, so i run ea falcon shocks. I would look at the hilux ones to use the factory style shock

 

Tailshaft would require sourcing an r31 tailshaft and getting that end grafted to the corolla tailshaft, should be $200- $300 to get that done.

 

I will get a weight later, need to pull my stuff off it, would need to be on a pallet so start with 1200x1200x140 around 20kgs for a light pallet, i will get he rest! cheers!

 

Disk conversion for the t series could be done pretty easy if you start with either r31 brakes, or ea falcon brakes. because of the way the calliper bracket is designed on both of these it makes them really easy to convert to anything, i have done a few random diffs, the worst of the bunch required $100 worth of milling, mostly its just redrilling a few holes.

Edited by oh what a nissan feeling!

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

ragequit.

 

My stall converter was built by slingshot. So I ring Slingshot about my stally, the stall speed off boost is around 1500 rpm, its an 8" race converter and was ordered as a 4500 rpm stall. $1600 worth. I ring slingshot twice and discuss the issue with them. I can't get boost at all on the brake, the car does go well on boost though. but no off street drags or skid comps because getting on boost from a stand still is a pita. The owner at slingshot is a great salesman, but quite frankly gave me no confidence as his knowledge of the topic seemed to be very limited, blaming my engine, my gearbox, and then the spec sheet I must have filled out wrong...... So I sent my stally off to TCE to get adjusted.

 

Fast forward to yesterday I get a call from TCE. The first thing he says is "have you had a massive gearbox failure in the past with this converter?". No its brand new, done less than 5000 ks. He then goes on to tell me that the stator and the turbine have fin damage all over them that has happened in the past. but that's not the whole story. Apparently the stator and the turbine are extremely old items in a brand new converter, showing years of wear all over them, and really poor clearances. He also tells me that there is no way the damage has occurred in this current converter build because there is no evidence of it anywhere else in the converter. Besides my gearbox would have to suffer major failure. He also tells me that the stall speed of 1500 rpm is about right for how the converter is setup. He sent me a heap of pics on my phone. Cost to fix is $1050.

 

So basically my converter was built from the junkyard.

 

So I ring slingshot, once again I get the owner a very good salesman, he listens to my rant very very patiently for nearly half an hour. He tells me he's very sorry for my negative experience with his company, but due the to the age of the converter is not interested in helping me with my problem.

 

I hate cars.

 

I hate people.

eeesh Matt, that has got to suck big time, have you heard of Garage Redzone around Caloundra?, Dave Cox runs the shop, you would know his Gemini he built, could i suggest if you need access to things, I'm sure he could pass you onto his contacts.

 

I have heard of slingshot before, but not if its the same one operating some 12-13 years on now

Sounds like slingshot needs a Molotov slingshot

  • Author

Yep clowns, how do businesses like that still function.

 

 

I'm going to be making a new fuel tank for this now, the old one doesnt fit as well as it used to, it will be good to ditch the surge tank as well with a better tank design.

 

Picked up the diff, center is put together, billet 31 spline with cro-moly studs. overkill yes, but may as well go 31 if I'm building a diff anyways.

 

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I'm going to a steel adaptor plate for the trans, the alloy one is ok but i would feel better with the steel one in there. Problem is the steel one is 5mm thicker so may have to mill it down, or maybe space the converter. will check once the converter is back with me.

 

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out with the old box, and in with the new. transbrake, ect.

 

 

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alloy for intake runners

 

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