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13b V Sr20


Mickey H

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You'll get a good running CA with box and the comp for 1500 if you look around. Its a highly under appreciated motor and it'll be cheaper and easier to mess with, and an easier fit than the SR. You'll still get plenty of ponies out of it too.

I was thinking that, but a stock ca18det is only 130kw at the flywheel. I guess i could build it with stronger internals and up the boost. I don't want to put a rotor in yet, i think it might be too powerful for my first car. I can always upgrade the engine later on if i find the ca isn't powerful enough i guess :lol:

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Who apparently have more money than brains...

 

 

Personally I don't think a rotor is going to like drifting very much, CA18s have oil surge problems and SR20s will throw rocker arms if you're not mindful of the rev limiter. Decide which problem is less of an issue for you and go with that.

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An standard sr20 can reliably make 300rwhp every day of the week, a ca18 can't.

 

just add gt28rs with .63 rear housing and you have so much response there is no lag to speak of.

 

As for easier fit, they are both identical to fit pretty much. May as well do it right the first time. :P:

 

 

Ca's and Sr's are for people with little dooles that like the company of other males.

 

Turbo Rotors are for blokes with big hairy dicks that like tit's.

 

running a 10 sec quarter mile in a rotary is like coming out of the closet,

 

it feels good, but at the end of the day you're still gay. :lol:

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If you can stretch the budget to lets say 3 times more, you could get yourself a SR16VE from a N15 Pulsar VRZ N1 front cut, these motors make 147Kw in N/A form. All you would need to do is re route some water lines, move the TB to the other end of the manifold, and bolt up a S13 box, and still retain the standard ECU.

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SR20VET from a JDM X-trail would be a better choice. Still gonna have to buggerise around changing the orientation. Personally I don't think its worth the effort. Going to have to make a custom intake manifold and try to clear the CAS on the firewall (the CAS is setup like a GTiR... like all FWD SRs). Then in the end if you break something you'll have to wait months for parts from japan because there certainly are very limited parts available locally. And you need to use the ECU that comes with the VE motors otherwise the VVL wont be shifted at all. Then if you go aftermarket you're going to have to try and program the VVL.

 

After all that you could have spent the time and money putting pistons, rods, mlhg, ecu, arp studs all through, camshafts, turbo and manifolds on a redtop and had an instant 300kw+

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running a 10 sec quarter mile in a rotary is like coming out of the closet,

 

it feels good, but at the end of the day you're still gay. :eatlead:

[/quote

 

Doing Doughnuts in the rain is like going to a gay bar, picking up a man, taking him home and playing poo pirates.

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running a 10 sec quarter mile in a rotary is like coming out of the closet,

 

it feels good, but at the end of the day you're still gay. :eatlead:

[/quote

 

Doing Doughnuts in the rain is like going to a gay bar, picking up a man, taking him home and playing poo pirates.

 

 

no need for rain with an SR :bash:

 

Mickey,

 

from the replies i think its clear SR20DET is going to be cheapest and most reliable in the long run.

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lol

 

13bt>sr20det

 

If you ignored the annoying tractor spec exhaust note, they might be okay but at the end of the day they're a shitty nissan engine :bash: :eatlead:

 

As 13bt ke20 said, a good ported 13b or s4/5 13bt can be had for 1500 if you keep your eyes open.

 

I'd think a KE70 with a 13BBP would go pretty good. brap brap

 

Cheers, Ben.

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