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13b V Sr20


Mickey H

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i still don't understand why people say 13bt, the guy said he wants to slide the car.

 

I still don't understand why you think you can't slide a 13bt? have you even ever driven one or are you just another Rotary racist because your dads friends friend had one in the 70's and said they were shit?

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Agreed! too many rotor haters, rotors are at least as reliable as pistons if not more, having half the moving parts.

 

If it still has the mounts etc from the 12a I'd be chucking in a 12ABP or 12AT, would be a lot less mucking around and would give you plenty of power to learn to drift.

 

A plus with a rotor is if it does go pop, they are alot cheaper to rebuild than an SR.

 

Cheers, Ben.

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I still don't understand why you think you can't slide a 13bt? have you even ever driven one or are you just another Rotary racist because your dads friends friend had one in the 70's and said they were shit?

 

i don't remember saying they were shit or have i knocked them at all, ive driven plenty of rotors from bog stock 12a to some nicely worked 13bts, i can appreciate what they are i just think its cheaper in the long run to have a sr.

 

no need to get all defensive :eatlead:

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys, been awhile since ive been on here. My rolla project has been on the back burner for the past few months, but I'm getting back into it now. I've decided i want to make it street legal, and but a 13b in it. Most of the 13b kesevs ive seen have been track hacks so if anyone has info about how to do it so it will pass inspection and be legal i would appreciate it :D don't want to drift it now, just something fun to drive on the weekend/ or take to the drags and run a decent time. 13bt would be mad, but i heard its not possible due to power/weight :jamie:

Edited by Mickey H
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Rotaries never get the life of a piston motor, especially once you've got the mod bug. Don't get me wrong, they put down their power like nothing else on earth, but telling people they are as reliable as a piston motor is misinformation. The factory RX8 100,000km service states - rebuild engine, I haven't ever seen that on a piston powered car, unless you call a KIA a car :jamie:

 

SR may be a dirty datsun engine, but they're easy to work on and have a massive aftermarket support range. Most of all they can be complied, even in turbo form into a corolla.

 

 

Agreed! too many rotor haters, rotors are at least as reliable as pistons if not more, having half the moving parts.

 

If it still has the mounts etc from the 12a I'd be chucking in a 12ABP or 12AT, would be a lot less mucking around and would give you plenty of power to learn to drift.

 

A plus with a rotor is if it does go pop, they are alot cheaper to rebuild than an SR.

 

Cheers, Ben.

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The things I've seen SR's survive with factory bottom ends shows you how reliable they are, have you ever heard an ultra reliable rotary?

 

Yea actualy my dad has driven his rx7 s3 to work every day for 5 years and only ever had to do oil changes and as it is it still flogs v8 commys..

 

if you are not scared of reading and learning some stuff go with the 13b.. heaps better than sr20 specially if you are going drift, i haven't seen many sr20's that can sit on limiter for ages with out blowing up unless they have had lots of money spent on them.

 

people say you can't find parts for a rotary.. its not true.. when i bought my rx7 s2 i thought the same thing but they are everywhere just need to know were to look, ausrotar.com is really good for parts and for info.

 

my vote is for the 13b if you havent noticed..

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For a fun street car i would go an SR, it has more torque and torque = drivability, parts are easy to come by, fits easily, heaps of people have done it so as said above its a slut conversion that is easy 2 get info on.

 

and before anybody says anything about my KE70 having an SR20 i was very close to putting a 13bt in the rolla, as close as having a 13BT half cut in the driveway.

 

In a ke70, a rotor has the exhaust on the wrong side which makes plumbing a pain in the arse, is harder to get in stock unmodified form and in good nick (at the time i bought mine only 1 place in sydney would sell rotors with a warranty and they charged $3500 for a series 5 13BT), the gearboxes are huge and you need to do heaps of sump/crossmember mods to make one fit.

 

Also, the lack of rotary riliability is a crock, build one right and you wont hava any issues. If you have the money a guru roller bearing 2 piece eccentric shaft, nice seals and seperate the rotor face oil supply and the bearing oil supply (ie block off the rotor face supply and run 2 stroke oil in the tank) and have fun :-)

Edited by Fat Bastard Customs
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My bro has a nissan nx coupe fwd sr20.. And he is the 4 owner of it. The first owner was my sisters ex and then my dad and then my older bro then my other bro. This car had the tits thrashed out of it by all 4 owners it had 278.000k's on the clock befor she poped. She poped about 2 months ago! The reson why the sr20 poped was coz my bro did 7 1/2grand changes every gear and he only owned it for 2 months.

 

My bro had bought a sr20 for $400 no box from a place in sydney called sumo wreckes I think and it still gose hard.

 

But i still love my rotas..

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i still don't understand why people say 13bt, the guy said he wants to slide the car.

 

I still don't understand why you think you can't slide a 13bt? have you even ever driven one or are you just another Rotary racist because your dads friends friend had one in the 70's and said they were shit?

 

13BT's are MORE than capable of going sideways, and in a small car like a KE its pretty nuts!!

 

For track, id love a rota, street drive everyday a stock SR would be nice.

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I've decided i want to make it street legal, and but a 13b in it.

 

I think everyone missed the point, a 13b non turbo vs a sr20det?

 

Without the turbo either are not going to be very fast,

 

the sr20 can be legal with a turbo, the 13b can't.

 

I don't think anyone is stupid enough to argue a 13b na, vs an sr20 turbo.

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Maybe worth saying that Tar is now about as hard to drive with the cam/lightened FW/button clutch as my RX4 thats bridge ported, and has a button clutch.

And the corolla is EFI and the mazda has 5" tall Italian with a bucket, commonly known as an IDA weber!!!!!

 

Modify any car with things like light FW's, buttons, cams/porting and you will always reduce general drivability.

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  • 2 weeks later...
My bro has a nissan nx coupe fwd sr20.. And he is the 4 owner of it. The first owner was my sisters ex and then my dad and then my older bro then my other bro. This car had the tits thrashed out of it by all 4 owners it had 278.000k's on the clock befor she poped. She poped about 2 months ago! The reson why the sr20 poped was coz my bro did 7 1/2grand changes every gear and he only owned it for 2 months.

 

My bro had bought a sr20 for $400 no box from a place in sydney called sumo wreckes I think and it still gose hard.

 

But i still love my rotas..

 

no offence dude but "NX's" are N/A!

 

and not surprised it popped as no engine is built from the factory to handle that kind of thrashing....

 

13B with a some decent seals will last a long time if maintained the right way.... and rotaries never get boring....

 

SR20 stock is a decent kick but can get boring after a while.... need bulk money to keep yourself happy with one....

 

and before anyone goes "how would you know blah blah blah"....

 

when i used to drive a street legal 85 929 with a 20B and built your step brother SR20DE+T, you learn some shit!!!!

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  • 1 month later...

if ya sliding, go for the sr if you want to go fast without hitting the limiter constantly go the rota.

ive got both a 13bt rx7 and a 200sx and the sr's has way more torque than the rota, but the rota revs to tomorrow and beyond.

sr is more reliable when constantly being punished and bouncing off the limiter. cooling will be the issue for the rota....

 

but at the end of the day they both achieve the same sorta power with the same mods and they have both have been drifted sucessfully... so its your decision.

 

once you do an exhaust, i/c, computer and boost both will make around the 180-190rwkw mark.

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