Heat it up once then let it cool down over night, then re-torque it STONE COLD!! (Alloy heads are ALWAYS re-torqued cold)

Make such you back each bolt off individually, don't just try to get more tension out of the bolt straight off!!

 

If it was me, I'd re-torque it again at 500k's.

Edited January 8, 201115 yr by TRD ke70

I have always done what Scott said between 500 - 1000 but the 3tc might be different in the fact that it doesn't need to be.

Edited January 8, 201115 yr by Trev

thanks for that, i ran it again today, after buying a new timing light, it was running about 50 degrees BTDC, pulled the dizzy out and put it in one tooth round, and timed it to the 10 degrees it was meant to be running, starts a bit easier now haha.

 

so the verdict is retorque it basically now, and in 500 km?

 

do i just back off one bolt at a time, or loosen the lot and re do them?

 

 

gonna have to redo all the vac lines this arvo, as soon as it gets hot, there is a vacuum leak that appears, that i can't find, and I'm also not getting any vac advance.

 

grr

 

who wants to do it for me? :P

 

and jake, if you can look it up that would be good, also if you a clear copy of the californian emissions diagrams i would love that, the sticker is getting a bit old now...

Nothing in the t series manual, pretty sure there is a different one for USA emissions, I'm pretty sure they had way stricter emission laws over there, ill see what the one under my bonnet says if that is the right one.

Pretty sure the "C" in 3T-C and any other Toyota engine refers to Californian emissions standards, so i might just be the same as local models?

Got a picture of the guide on the bonnet, not the clearest but might do.

Also searched through the repair manual and couldn't find anything to do with vacuum lines/emissions.

Edited January 9, 201115 yr by 19914afc

got it done, about half the lines were wrong, idles better once hot now, which is definately an improvement, still no vac advance, which is odd. I'm thinking maybe diaphram, how do i check this? or maybe something in the dizzy sticking?

not my strong point, who can help...

not a roadworthy issue, so its not bothering me too much, but it would be nice to have it, as it makes quite a difference :)

 

 

thats the emissions i was playing with, its crazy spaghetti shit.

 

who thinks i will pass with the air pump thingo no connected? theres no belt on it, and the pulley looks knackered, so heres hoping i get away with it :laff:

 

fixed the auto fluid leak, turned out the metal line had rubbed through on the edge of the sump, so slid a length of hose over and clamped it up, all good now :) lets hope it lasts

 

car drives much nicer now, still a bit of a vibration, so I'm thinking i might have to rotate the tailshaft and see if it gets any better, but its not that bad

 

who has a heater tap they can sell me, the only spare i have is from the 1g car, and its modified and wont work in the stock position, the one in the car leaks like a seive.

 

can you buy new ones still?

 

 

cheers, andy

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/arowland2/genuine%202%20door/?action=view&current=DSCN0833.jpg

 

if you look at that pic, you will notice its different to a ke70 one, with the angles the hoses come out on

 

anyone know if t18 match?

to check vac advance. pull the dissycap/rotor button off till you can see the points clearly. get a small hose and connect it to the vac advance port then suck on it and see if the point assembly moves. suck on it then plug it with your tounge. if it doesnt hold the vacuum on your tounge = split diaphram

will that be the same for electronic ignition? I'm assuming yes?

just pop the rotor button off and suck away, see if anything moves?

yep, exactly the same..

http://s29.photobuck...nt=DSCN0833.jpg

 

if you look at that pic, you will notice its different to a ke70 one, with the angles the hoses come out on

 

anyone know if t18 match?

 

T18 one is different, the way Evan explained it was exactly the way I found out the diaphragm on my ae92 was f@$ked.

 

Anyway here's some pics of my heater tap, got a brand new genuine one from Japan, also with the air pump I took mine off as it was making it backfire very slightly when driving normally, just took everything off and blocked up anything that was required but I would think you would need it to get ti registered unless you do a very good job and get proper plugs for the EGR part.

 

Anyway the last pic is of how simple my weber is only having 2 vacuum lines for vac advance :laff:

Edited January 9, 201115 yr by 19914afc

haha if i was keeping the motor i would have swapped to a decent carby already

 

that heater tap looks exactly the same as a ke70 one.

 

grr

 

ill have to see what my parts people can do for me.

my motor, and the shell we started the conversion on, with the diff all the suspension, seats etc etc, has all been for a nice swim as it was all in ipswich, whats another set back hey...

man that sucks bad, how deep? is it all still there?