hey mate where u located?

 

I'm in morwell for work but live in stratford on the weekend.

i have a 2tg i want to put together for my ke70 but have no idea on how to assemble it as it came in pieces

 

might have to go to a GCC event to have a look sometime this year

 

 

Hi slider, we have an khanacross at the track this Sunday if you are not doing anything. I am not racing but time keeping so will be there. If you are coming let me know and I will lend you a workshop manual so you can read up on them. Then any questions, just ask. I am up that way all the time so could drop in and give you a hand if you get stuck.

Let me know if you are coming on Sunday. Its free entry. Cheers Paul.

sorry i wont be there as there is a hilclimb on at boisdale that i am entered in but will try make it another time

sorry i wont be there as there is a hilclimb on at boisdale that i am entered in but will try make it another time

 

 

No worries mate, next time. I have a couple of mates running at Boisdale this weekend. i was gunna go myself but can't be in two places at once.

 

Say hi to Brendan from Rosedale, and Greg and Paul Shaw for me. Cheers Paul.

 

 

Edited April 9, 201016 yr by ausca62

good bloke brendan. he has alot to do with the club. will definitely say G'day for ya

 

i have run the morwell khana before. yo probably wouldnt remember me i will post up a pic of the ye old stanza ha when it was still alive

back in the day when i first started :(

back in the day when i first started :bash:

Na prob b4 my time. We used to run a Diahatsu Cherade. It went well untill it went for a roll in the dirt. We won both Junior and FWD class for 2008.

 

 

Edited April 12, 201016 yr by ausca62

WTF.....................................I just had to post a few picks.

 

My wife is not a rev head. She would much rather play with her animals, (dogs, cows etc) and yet my son can get her sanding the bonnet of the rolla for him while he talks on the phone to his mates.

 

 

LOL!

 

Love it!

 

keep her at it, you never know when you will need someone to sit under the bonnet working the broken throttle cable while you drive home!

keep her at it, you never know when you will need someone to sit under the bonnet working the broken throttle cable while you drive home!

 

she isnt a 4 year old child from bush mechanics.....

LOL!

 

Love it!

 

keep her at it, you never know when you will need someone to sit under the bonnet working the broken throttle cable while you drive home!

 

 

Ha Ha: .................. I mentioned to her about a broken throttle, and her reply was. "You know where you can stick your broken throttle cable"!!!!! :wink:

Good stuff.

Is that a Pneumatic Speedfile ? That would be a very useful tool, bit easier than hand sanding !

Good stuff.

Is that a Pneumatic Speedfile ? That would be a very useful tool, bit easier than hand sanding !

 

Bloody oath!..........................$75. on eBay, brand new..........................Ya gotta love eBay :wink:

Hi all.

Its been a while but its time to get back into the old girl again.

 

I have been flat out working on a new movie set, (called THE CUP) but now filming has finneshed so I have time.

 

I need help again. This time more info than help. I need to know how to do fiberglass. I have some molds for flares because my new wheels are wider. I have never dicked around with fiberglass. Maybe someone might know a web site that explains the steps for a beginner?????

Thanks Guys.

Paul.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

just had a good read through this thread!

 

i bet that car is fun to drive even with the 3tc, gonna be even better with that new power plant.

 

as for fibreglass. i did a bit of figbreglassing a few years back (mainly speaker/subwoofer enclosures).

 

the best place to get fibreglass from is boat shops. can usually get 4L of the stuff (including hardener) for about 80 bucks.

 

I'm unsure how you make flares though...as when i did mine, it turned out quite rough (just the bare cross cut glass fibres). but those flares appear to have a gell coat (or maybe its just paint...) on them. but it was ok for me as i just covered it in carpet..

 

the way i applied the fibre glass was pretty...er...agricultural...

 

i applied masking tape to the areas that i was trying to mould (but didnt want the glass to stick too). there may be a better medium to use here, but masking tape worked fairly well, and it was cheap. and it doesnt get eaten by the resin.

 

then i cut up my glass fibres into usable peices (200x100mm perhaps), you might be able to use glass matting, but i think thats fairly expensive compared to the cross hatch style (ramdomly placed) glass fibres.

 

i then mixed up a small batch of the resin (around 250mm, i used a cup from my mothers kitchen...;)). read the instructions on the bottle as to how much hardener you have to put in, too little and it will never go off, to much and it will be going off infront of your eyes. The right amount and you have about 10mins before it starts setting, and overnight before its completley cured.

 

then i used a peice of boad, layed down my glass fibre mat, and poured enough resin on (or use a really cheap paint brush to "paint" the resin on" untll the matt is completly saturated). you may find that at this stage the resin is starting to break down the glass, so you have to move quickly to pick up the glass matt and apply it to where ever you want to put it.

 

the chemical reaction is an exothermic one, so if you can feel the glass getting hot...hurry up!!!

 

in your case it may be easier to put the glass matting onto the moulds, and then apply the resin (making sure the glass fibres are soaked with resin, with formentioned cheap paint brush), but in my case i was applying the glass in awquad places (boot of a car), so needed to apply the resin outside and then transport the glass into the car (messy...!!)

 

make sure you use gloves! i didnt...and i was itchy for days.

 

in your case maybe do two or three layers of glass, if you have the time, maybe wait for a layer to dry before applying the next, so you can see how strong it is.

 

then i guess to get a good finish, trim off the edges, start sanding and apply some paint!

 

hope this helps hey.

 

with my experience, with fibreglass you can't really go wrong. especially for cosmetic stuff like this. I'm sure the method would be more important for loadbearing fibreglass, but i say have a crack at fibreglassing something else small first ,just to get a feel of how much time you have to use the fibreglass etc.

just had a good read through this thread!

 

i bet that car is fun to drive even with the 3tc, gonna be even better with that new power plant.

 

as for fibreglass. i did a bit of figbreglassing a few years back (mainly speaker/subwoofer enclosures).

 

the best place to get fibreglass from is boat shops. can usually get 4L of the stuff (including hardener) for about 80 bucks.

 

I'm unsure how you make flares though...as when i did mine, it turned out quite rough (just the bare cross cut glass fibres). but those flares appear to have a gell coat (or maybe its just paint...) on them. but it was ok for me as i just covered it in carpet..

 

the way i applied the fibre glass was pretty...er...agricultural...

 

i applied masking tape to the areas that i was trying to mould (but didnt want the glass to stick too). there may be a better medium to use here, but masking tape worked fairly well, and it was cheap. and it doesnt get eaten by the resin.

 

then i cut up my glass fibres into usable peices (200x100mm perhaps), you might be able to use glass matting, but i think thats fairly expensive compared to the cross hatch style (ramdomly placed) glass fibres.

 

i then mixed up a small batch of the resin (around 250mm, i used a cup from my mothers kitchen...:fuzz:). read the instructions on the bottle as to how much hardener you have to put in, too little and it will never go off, to much and it will be going off infront of your eyes. The right amount and you have about 10mins before it starts setting, and overnight before its completley cured.

 

then i used a peice of boad, layed down my glass fibre mat, and poured enough resin on (or use a really cheap paint brush to "paint" the resin on" untll the matt is completly saturated). you may find that at this stage the resin is starting to break down the glass, so you have to move quickly to pick up the glass matt and apply it to where ever you want to put it.

 

the chemical reaction is an exothermic one, so if you can feel the glass getting hot...hurry up!!!

 

in your case it may be easier to put the glass matting onto the moulds, and then apply the resin (making sure the glass fibres are soaked with resin, with formentioned cheap paint brush), but in my case i was applying the glass in awquad places (boot of a car), so needed to apply the resin outside and then transport the glass into the car (messy...!!)

 

make sure you use gloves! i didnt...and i was itchy for days.

 

in your case maybe do two or three layers of glass, if you have the time, maybe wait for a layer to dry before applying the next, so you can see how strong it is.

 

then i guess to get a good finish, trim off the edges, start sanding and apply some paint!

 

hope this helps hey.

 

with my experience, with fibreglass you can't really go wrong. especially for cosmetic stuff like this. I'm sure the method would be more important for loadbearing fibreglass, but i say have a crack at fibreglassing something else small first ,just to get a feel of how much time you have to use the fibreglass etc.

 

 

 

thanks Dave 4 your input. Sounds ezy but from experience things that sound ezy usually arnt. I have a hillclimb at Haunted hills this Sunday so wont have time 2 get into it this weekend, but will have a crack next. Cheers man. Paul