:lolcry: MAYBE i just like flat black too lol :P

I reckon the white walls are too thick for the hubbies? Need more black in there somewhere to make them stand out more. Use a thinner brush next time you have to repaint your walls? haaa.

White wall is too thick and too far from the rim... car is too white for the look too :)

may as well add my 2 cents haha i wreckon paint the red lip on the rims black... and the hub cap areas which are white paint them black to ... as the cars white and the white wall is thick the black will break it up abit....

ill be washing the rear whitewalls off cause there flaking off and ill take a pic with caps and no whitewall.

 

update

 

installed some QFM HPX front pads AND OMFG! BEST BRAKES EVER! dead set. i put em in went for a drive and braked like i would with the old pads and nearly went thru the windscreen!

 

also a/c is in and working. -0.5 degree at a steady 3000 rpm LOL!

 

 

went down to my carby guy and the c**t was closed! will go past tomorrow and get some jets. ive noticed something REALLYYYY weird. my exhauast has a low down tone when its raining? or cold start when raining?

Exhaust low when air con is running?

nope. ill report back when i get some new jets. bogs down till 3 grand then vtec kicks in!

 

nice and granny :D

 

edit - also scored a ke70 5 speed and flywheel for $106 inc warrenty YEEAAAA BOI!

 

carby is jetted. BRING ON THR GOR!

Edited January 18, 201115 yr by Evan G

haha- What jets were they Mr Enthusiastic, and what did they change them to??

 

So now it runs smooth all the way up?? Tons of grunt? :laff:

its f@$king strange IMO

 

had 125 pri / 155 sec (195 pri/155 sec air correction jets) this was running real rich in the secs and VERY lean in the prims

 

so i swapped everything from pri to sec. was fine. running a tad rich

 

played with alot of jets now running 130 pri and 155 secs. still leaning out after 5 grand. a full tank lasted me a bit more than a week with 4 grand shifts LOL! aisin carbies are a joke

 

might go 160 or 170 in the secs.

 

goes like a cut snake IMO. scares the living shit out of people :D.

 

ill be also taking my stock air cleaner to work tomorrow and die grind it till it fits over the weber nice and snug. "what weber officer? weber as in BBQ weber? :fuzz:

looking good mate , did u find the fourth hub cap u needed?

 

i was impressed how smooth and revy your car is not to bad for a 4k.... even before the jetting....

orite alittle update before the big GOR cruise.

 

went down to frankston for a cruise last night. saw a bunch of Indian taxi drivers that i wanted to scare the shit out of! done a keybanger and blew another muffler! fml! so i had to drive back to my joint 4 in the morning cops f@$king EVERYWERE and ears almost bleeding!

was it worth it? YEA BOI!

 

so went down pick a part and grabbed another vl rear muffler and slapped it on in 2 hours.

 

pick a part had a special on headlights so i asked the bloke how much for semi sealed round headlights he said $6 a pair! so i grabbed them and some globes and was off :D

 

 

waiting on my other 2 hubcaps witch i paid $60 to my door. seriously considering what the overrated ke70 said. might just give a TINY spot weld to the rim. enough so they don't fly off and enough that i can remove the cap when I'm changing tyres.

 

also waiting on my exedy hd clutch and 4.7kg lightened flywheel.

 

ill be fitting new rear shoes as i don't have no rear brakes atm.

 

and thats pretty much it. fit the box and flywheel. everything will be up to roadworthy spec so i might sell it in the next couple months and get myself a pimping crown or cressida

 

thats about it for now.

 

 

 

EDIT - i got sick of my weber sticking out like dogs balls. so i modded it so it fit inside the std air box. hack job but looks neat.

 

Before

During

finished product! what weber officer?

Edited January 22, 201115 yr by Evan G

That weber job looks really neat and tidy, Yeah the tiny tack welds on the rims will work, similiar to a "lug" principle.

 

Your name is Mr Muffler from now on :laff:

Cut some holes in the air cleaner base or around the sides at the back to get better airflow in. Those snorkels are just a restriction.

 

Can you ream a jet larger? Take the lean main jet into a carb shop and have them ream it out 5 or 10 units? This site is prety good-

 

http://www.offroad-toyotas.com/forums/toyota-truck-4runner-archives/11342-weber-32-36dgv-verses-weber-38dges-print.html

 

This is better-

 

http://www.underexposed.org/weber.pdf

 

With the carb warmed up and the choke verified to be off drop the idle as low as possible, preferrably down around 400revs or less. To properly calibrate idle jet size the lean best idle must be set with the throttle valves shut so you are adjusting only the idle circuit without getting into the transition circuit . The idle jets in these carbs meter the amount of fuel in volume that is available to the transition , very important for driveability. 32/36's usually respond their best with around 1-1.5 turns out on the mix screw. Any more turns than that and you need a larger jet . 38DGAS models usually run their best at .75-1 turns out on the mix screws . Both should be as equally balanced as possible . Excessive number of turns on either model should indicate a need for a larger idle jet . All the DGV series (32/36 & 38/38) place the transition circuit at the outer edge of the bores. On some manifold designs this is not optimal due to the flow pattern of the plenum. Don't be surprised if you have to run a seemingly large idle jet to get good driveability. Some of the Suzuki's 1.3L engines run 65-75 idle jets due to this problem. No real effect on fuel mileage but the driveability goes way up. A great way to guage the idle jet size is to very slowly increase the idle speed screw up into the transition stage and see if there are any flat spots. A flat spot will indicate a lack of fuel in the transition or bad spot in the timing curve .

 

and this is over the page-

 

Idle jets/mix screw settings . Best overall throttle response is important , the idle jets take care of much more than just off-idle response. The main jets really only set the cruise mix, idle jets are responsible for any real acceleration up to almost 3000revs. Any mixture screw setting over 1.5 turns out indicates the need for a larger jet . I've set some up with as few as .5 turns out to get the throttle response where it should be. Float settings and fuel height in the bowl also affects the mains and the E-tubes and how they work in timing with the transition circuit . Too low a fuel level will result in the mains reacting slowly. Idle jets can compensate this a bit and lower fuel settings can be used for offroad applications . Progressive carbs use the secondary idle jet to blend in the second throat , any blip or hesitation needs the jet size changed. A well tuned Weber will literally howl at high revs when the secondary opens much like the older Quadrajets. The 38DGAS makes the same sound when tuned right in the midrange, it should sound like it's gonna suck the asphalt out from under it. Lack of throttle response is not acceptable to me, I expect an expensive carb to respond and spend the time to tune it accordingly. Main jetting on a 38DGAS can be set for some surprisingly high fuel mileage since the engine only requires light throttle input to hold highway speeds. Mains that are too rich or lean will only increase throttle input and waste fuel. The air jets in Webers act as a brake of sorts, the higher the velocity in the throat the more fuel the mains can pull . The blend of air into the main circuit becomes more important at high revs and the air jets allow this part of the range to be adjusted. The biggest reason for jetting is to allow the carb to work properly with the engine, no two are alike.

 

I better post this and let you become the Weber expert after the other 34pages! :laff:

Edited January 23, 201115 yr by altezzaclub

niice keybang! lol

 

here was my last effort before i ditched the 4k in my van..