4k-c Turbo Build!

[Jaydnisevil]

Well iv gotten half of my S13 front end :)

I have got the two hubs + LCA's, but only one set of brakes so far.

A mate of mine with a 180 has converted to 5 stud at a very convenient time, so I have 'purchased' his front end and wheels :)

Iv got a start on things, but given I got home at 5:30.. its rather hard to work in the dark.

 

 

 

* RHS coil-over installed

As you can see, I have a aluminium plate on the coilover-hub mount... well the previous previous owner did not tighten the top bolt sufficiently and its flogged out (I may have previously mentioned this)

So opposed to just a washer, iv made these to prevent excessive movement in that hole and give extra strength.

I think the correct bolt size and tension will be enough to hold the plates in place, but I believe ill have them TIG welded to the lower mount. They are not shaped yet, ill do that once they are in place and I can follow the contours of the hub.

 

* Lower control arm installed (along with hub)

* Drilled new hole for castor arm

* Sway-bar+link attached (Not pictured)

 

The wheel isn't flush (Nor is the hub bolted tight to the coil over)

But that was just to check the ride hight I had quickly set.

Edited October 8, 2011 by Jaydnisevil

[ninja-philbo]

good work mate keep cracking

[Jaydnisevil]

And the fronts are in.... Ish

 

 

 

Again, the following is an earlier picture before I removed the plates for cleaning up.

But it shows it all attached.

Stupid me got caught up in thread pitch today and grabbed M10 instead of M12, so ill have to replace the mount bolts (No biggy)

 

 

Now ignoring the pre cosmetically altered plate butchery, the worrie I have is shown in this picture.

That gap in the top bolt hole.. I am fairly confident the bolt will not move around once tight (Especially if I weld the places in place)

But id rather to take up that gap...Initial thoughts are:

• To cut out a piece of the same thickness and shape and press it in, then re-drill using the outer plate as well.
  
• Add a third bolt right through the middle to prevent pivoting.
  

 

....I can't think of much else, anybody got any ideas?

 

If I weld the plates to the lower mount, then I don't think it will be an issue as it should all act as one piece.

so that would be plan A, but I need to think it over.

Ill speak to a few people over the next few days, see what I come up with.

Ideas appreciated guys

 

I wanted to replace the whole lower mount, but as it turns out they do not make them any-more in that shock size..f@$k.

So short of buying a whole new coil-over setup, this will do.

 

Ill update with more pics when the wheels are off again to do the rack ends and fix up the bolt issue.

LOL I hooked up the tie rods to the hub just so I could move the car if needed.. they had to unscrew so much the toe out is monstrous :P

 

Ohh and awesome luck, the old brake line threaded perfectly into the new calliper!

Although I get the feeling I should upgrade the master cylinder for some reason... dunno, just a random though.

Ill invest in some EBC red-stuff once the cars on the road.

[SLO-030]

I'd Get it all tig'd together. Shouldnt have an issue. or have the hole filled and re drilled using your mount plates and then have them welded in for extra security.

 

Even if you just get the plates tig'd in, once its all tight you shouldnt have an issue.

[158kw4k]

Nice car bud

Edited October 9, 2011 by 158kw4k

[Jaydnisevil]

New 12mm bolts in.

Iv added the space fillers to the passenger side, never got to the driver side because I lifted my half thumbnail when I slipped up off a bolt. Needless to say my hand f@$king hurts :P

Ima still gonna have it welded I think, but I'm happier that the load is now spread out a bit more.

And it also seems to have centralized it self in the hole :)

Ill work on the other side this weekend I think.

Id still rather have new lower mounts, but beggars cannot be choosers lol.

Ill keep looking though.

Edited October 11, 2011 by Jaydnisevil

[Jaydnisevil]

Well iv decided what's going to be replacing my faithful 4k, saving for that will start after my holiday :)

SR20DET will do just nicely I think :) (Lol shoulda just bought an S13 and saved the time)

 

That being said, look what can be done with a 2JZ :P

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Szk2siJHJ7o

 

Anywho for the moment we press on with the 4k.

 

Suspension is 95% done

Everything bar welded plates, and larger LCA bolts (still standard ones atm now, needed the car on the ground again)

Ohh and I'm putting new rack boots on this weekend, obviously the old ones did not fit correctly.

 

For the extension of the steering, I used AW11 rack ends and S13 tie rod ends and they fitted perfectly :)

Obviously will need a wheel alignment (can do at work)

Iv made the hole filler pieces and installed em, much happier now.

Ill still have em welded when I fine a TIG welder locally, but at least I feel comfortable driving it now.

 

 

Now over 4 weeks later, the manifold STILL has not been done :bash:

So iv gotten it back of dad and will leave it with a exhaust joint to manipulate.

However I put it in the right spot and done the plumbing for the remainder of the charge pipes.

I just need a slightly longer silicone joiner, to get the angle right I had to twist the IC outlet pipes away.

 

Ummm think that is all really..

Awaiting my manifold to be re-bend before it starts, then just the throttle cable bracket :)

[Jaydnisevil]

Got it running again tonight :D

Running like a pig, but running none the less.

 

I bought a bottle of MAP gas and adjusted the plate position myself. (cherry red and JUST fitted in our vice)

The rear plate is not flush to the head, hence the rough running (plate at cylinder 3 perks up relative to cylinder 4) but its not far off.

Tomorrow I should hopefully have it even and running better :)

Then I can work on the throttle cable, install the last disk, order some EBC redstuff for me front pads.

From there I shall drive my way down to auto-barn and get the longer silicone joiner, order myself a new water-pump and bam; the dirt is gone. :dance:

[Spencer[RL]]

WE DEMAND VIDS!

[Jaydnisevil]

Demand and you shall receive :)

Took these last night by chance, mainly for record purposes.

 

I got a 98% improvement in the plates by again heating and using our press. Just contacted the edge of the plate and it was happy to comply ;)

 

Sorry, no imbeded links. Photobucket not functioning correctly, so resorted to youtube.

Simple video of start up giving an example of cabin noise (Doors open I believe):

 

http://youtu.be/D-EZ-RCh1VU

 

lol, went to get an engine video but this was more amusing to record:

 

http://youtu.be/INL8WZqBbZw

 

Still evidence of a slight vac leak, used to run at 25-26MMHG. But just checking its all functioning:

 

http://youtu.be/Fy85gDsbDvY

 

Confirming cylinder 3 is the cause of my vacuum leak:

 

http://youtu.be/7kpCMuTXri0

 

 

With the vac leak, I'm going to try my luck with another 100% new gasket opposed to a once used. And also double down and use a high quality sealant left over night. If that does not work, ill take the manifold off again for finer adjustment and possibly machining.

[Jaydnisevil]

And the vacuum leak is fixed :) Thank you sikaflex!

Did the spray test and no change in RPM, so now the next step.

So glad it worked this time, because I'm sick of taking the manifold off :glare:

 

Running correctly:

• Vac leak
  
• NEWLY NOTICED... :hmm: Running on 3 pots
  
• Tidy Hoses
  
• 7v line to carby, not 12V
  
• Hesitation/Leaning out once secondary's open (Probably related to fuel pressure or blocked secondary)
  

 

Driving reliably:

• Throttle cable (I have a rough idea, and I have one connected now but its only temp to move the car)
  
• Wheel alignment
  
• Front disk and fluid flush (This weekend) In and working but want to convert to banjo connection, not happy
  
• Exhaust hanger (Next weekend)
  
• Air filter
  
• Longer silicone hose
  
• Set correct fuel pressure [Kinda set..seems to jump up around, might need to use my other electric lift pump.
  
• Water pump (Current one leaking)
  

Race able:

• EBC redstuff pads
  
• New LCA bolts
  

Edited November 5, 2011 by Jaydnisevil

[Jaydnisevil]

Have all the wheels now :)

Brakes are on and working, but I'm gonna swap the lines they look a bit aged.

 

 

 

 

Iv got videos of it running on 4 cylinders again, and a little bit of turbo flutter on back off (With a strange noise I cannot work out)

It could be a number of things, but the first logical would be air escaping somewhere. (Carby hat etc)

The second is of the A/F ratios.

You can see when I opened the secondariness and it leaned right out, you can tell because the stumbling is very audible.

 

Ill add the videos when they have finished uploading.

 

Ima need to sort out this fuel pressure issue, me thinks ill need to use my lift pump somehow opposed to my mechanical pump. I think the EFI pump is drawing it out faster than the pump can supply.

 

Other idea is to link the return from the regulator to the mechanical pump in or just before the EFI pump, to ensure constant supply.

[Jono.C]

It isnt just flutter because you're not running a blowoff valve? I couldn't see one anyway?

[Jaydnisevil]

It isnt just flutter because you're not running a blowoff valve? I couldn't see one anyway?

 

Yeaa the flutter is compressor surge, knew that. But its another noise at the same time. That being said I didn't look very long. More important things to attend to.

Videos not up yet, will edit this comment when they are available.

 

Flutter

http://youtu.be/grue97nYhvE

 

Early check before vacc pump hooked up.

http://youtu.be/KRhM3A9oqn8

 

Later check (Have adjusted idle and A/F recently since this video)

http://youtu.be/7i12IQpquu8

And that's the lot for now.

Edited October 23, 2011 by Jaydnisevil

[Jaydnisevil]

Fixed my fuel pressure issue :)

I am far too tired and lazy to get up and go take a photo, then try to explain the lot.

So with my amazing PC paint skillz, I sketched it out in about 5 minutes :)

 

 

Now holds a lovely 4.5psi as a base pressure, and sits at 1 at idle :)

Pump sounds happier too, rather than scrounging for fuel.