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5k Engine Transplant


Xany

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Its tried and tested. Other guys have said that K50s don't handle power as well as K40s. Stands to reason too when you really think about it. 5 gears, more moving parts, more chance of something screwing up.

 

Robs using a K40. Sure he could do with an extra gear..but loosing that reliability isnt worth it.

 

The other argument is that 5th really isnt that great...i mean shit..maybe a 500rpm drop. Youd be better off getting larger rims (14s or 15s) and use a slightly larger profile than you would to match the old diameter.

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yeah i suppose......but 5th gear also has its advantages....i'm still looking for a k to T series bell housing.....until i get one and a t series box. i'll stick with the 5 speed......it also depends on how you drive it....i'f you wanna be a cockhead you are going to break shit......if you drive it like its meant to be driven then you wont break as much stuff........simple as that......

 

the old saying also comes to mind

 

"drive it like you stole it".......

 

which is sometimes how i drive my car.....only when i'm very pissed off....not in the near future though

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dyno2000 is just an estimation, i doubt you'll ever make the power figures it gives out. it may be spot on for the big blocks it was designed for, not so for smaller motors. through testing, i've found if you allow for 85% error with a K motor, you generally get an accurate figure. my engine allegedly makes 139hp in dyno2000, i can tell you right now that it's not making that much

 

unless you have a penchant for doing line lockies all the time, and flat changing all the time, you're probably not going to harm either a 4 speed or a 5 speed too much. i can show you a ke30 with a worked 4k very similar to mine, which has been given heaps of curry but nothing stupid (like burnouts) and has been running the same K50 for 8 years. that being said, constant hard driving around town will kill second gear, no matter what K gearbox you use

 

you can get k-to-t bellhousings for about $200 ex NZ, ask around on club-k. don't forget you'll have to convert to hydraulic clutch. the k-to-t bellhousing has the slave cylinder on the drivers side, so you won't have exhaust clearance issues at least

 

out of interest, what cam are you running? what are the timing specs? is it a hydraulic or flat tappet cam?

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constant hard driving around town will kill second gear, no matter what K gearbox you use

I can vouch for that...my 2nd gear crunches sometimes now...foot flat to the floor on the clutch!

 

Dyno2000 isnt very good for turbo motors either...hopeless infact

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here are the can settings that came inside the box......

 

CAM_settings.jpg

 

my brother said that the lobe lift is mesured from the base circle of the cam itself....meaning that the rest of the 400+ lift is made up of the circle...

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shit, that's quite large. not exactly a "street" cam is it :| i'd want to be running at least 10.5:1 with a cam like that, you could probably even get away with 11 if your chamber design was decent

 

and um, i don't think your brother knows what he's talking about in relation to valvelift. lobe lift is the difference in the highest point of the lobe, and the base circle. this is how much the lifter and pushrod move up and down during valve opening. corollas run a 1.5 ratio rocker, which then opens the valve 1.5 times as much as the pushrod end of the rocker moves. this is why most people's lift figures are larger numbers

 

ie 274 x 1.5 = 411

you are running 0.411 valve lift

 

and i hope to god that's a flat tappet cam

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