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Posted

1: why would you bent the strut? sounds stupid.

 

Cheapest: Cut and extend your lower control arms. Wouldn't suggest more then 30mm

 

Easiest: Go an buy some xt130 lower control arms. They're 10mm longer so they'll add 10mm more length either side. (may need longer tie rods)

 

Easiest 2: Camber plates (strut tops) just fit em and away you go. i think ae86 ones will fit or you can buy a universal kit from otomoto which you drill out to suit. But not cheap..

 

Safest: Xt130 lca's or camber tops. or a combination of both.

 

- Cheers Jono

Posted

just got a ke70 roller shell and starting to think about a new build plan.

I always like to put pen to paper and have the majority of issues worked out and documented before I start anything!

Current plans are the standard 4age,or possibly something different,I have an idea but still in planning at present,slammed to legal height,slight offset on front rims (size and type currently undecided).Reason for wanting camber,I am of the understanding that it helps better with cornering(although wearing tyres more quickly) and as I live in the hills I want it to sit tight,corner tight and be good to drive.

Bending struts? may sound stupid I agree but read it as a suggestion on here when someone else asked the question.Personally at present I was considering XT130 LCA's and adjustable tops but as I said,just asking questions and getting answers.Budget is tight and I know that its going to cost so want to spend where I get most bang for my buck and economise where practical at this time,re asses when its a runner.

No,I'm not a school kid on holidays with $5 to spend but this is the first project Ive done in a while and that I plan on doing RIGHT,full road reg etc etc.so I'm going to start right from the beginning.

Anyway,thanks for the info.

Posted

Any modifications to the LCA's are illegal.

 

Any mods to the strut will need to be engineered. Hell pretty much any mod you do needs to be engineered these days.

 

thats pretty much 450-700 for that.

 

Also with longer LCA's comes wide track. You need to stay within a certain limit for track to (legally).

 

Just so you know.

 

Adam

Posted

If you like a track increase as well try running GH (i think) Sigma lca's, 330mm lon so 30mm longer than stock, paired with camber tops you could dial in the right amount of camber and get a bit of track as well.

Posted (edited)

ahhh see you should have put that in your first post!

 

i always like a bit of background info before attempting to answer questions.

 

intesting you mention tyre wear, the idea of camber is so that when you hit a corner hard, the whole contact patch of the tyre is used (rather than the outside edge which happends with ~0 deg camber, or the tyre upright)

 

if your car is setup well, and you don't spend all day driving on straight roads, you shouldnt get any excessive abnormal tyre wear from running negative camber. as it should be just enough camber on the tyre to get an even tyre contact patch ie maximum grip, when cornering.

 

"camber wear" is generally on cars with -10 degree camber, that rarely hit corners hard, and spend all day sitting in carparks.

 

however, your straight line breaking WILL suffer from running a bit of negative camber, especially in the wet. -2.5 was down right dangerous at times in the wet.

 

for instance i have -1 camber on my ke70 (6kg front springs, and federal 595-R? tyres) and i don't have any abnormal tyre wear. i did when i had -2.5 though, that was too much. you will see race cars at the race track checking their tyre temps and wear to make sure they are using the whole tyre.

 

as for ke70, camber tops are the best way. forget about longer control arms, or extending stock arms, and all that, sure they work, but camber tops are precise and you get the added bonus of solid top hats, which tightens things up considerably. I'm sure someone will reply with "xt130 arms FTW" or some such thing, but in reality camber tops are the proper way to do it.

 

edit: sigma LCA's are about 2miles to long on a ke70, don't worry about them.

Edited by ke70dave
  • Upvote 1
Posted (edited)

besides methods to do it,

 

consider adjustable vs permanent - for camber wear and being adjustable for different settings to suit

 

the camber comes from top, bottom or middle...

 

top - not a lot of room to move inwards with camber tops, needs smaller diameter coilover conversion as well to make use of movement.

 

middle - bending strut, permanent, around 1 deg at most though, top of wheel moves closer to strut, not ideal method for strength.

 

bottom - increases track, 30mm total allowed - includes changes in offset wheels as well, needs longer tie rod ends or sleeves,

longer lca conversion (cut and shut not allowed), ncrca's or offroad you could cut and shut lca, rosejoint lca or redrill crossmember

 

front end setups can cost as much as engine setups when you consider the suspension, brakes and steering it does add up if you want to do it properly,

else its always going to be a compromise which is common...

Edited by styler
Posted

I've done the 'bent struts' in the past, but it was so easy to fit XT130 LCAs that I figured that was the best solution. I haven't had a wheel alignment done since I fitted them a year or two back, I set the toein and the tyres look fine, so I can't tell you if its 0deg or -0.5deg. I can't see it being more.

 

I'd start with the LCAs and worry about other options once everything else is sorted.

Posted

sorry andy43 but I could never accept that solution as a safe and reasonable proposition as far as a road going car is concerned,the sheer load on that plate would have me worried although I can certainly see how it works etc and I would assume that you are using it on a track car.

Thanks everyone for the input,looks like I'll go xt130 lca's to begin with,nolothane bushes and a full xt130 changeover later with camber tops fitted as the functioning project is refined.

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