jimmy-d

talking about webers on a 4k,a 4k that has a weber fitted and runs like shit till it warms up,is this a tuning and or jetting problem,is it normal or what else could it be??this is all the info I have at present so just opinions,ideas would be appreciated..

are you sure that your kill switch is working? you say that you knocked it off and everything stopped working but since then you have not been able to get it going again even I assume when you switched it back on. maybe you damage the switch internally,have you checked it?you can bridge out the connections at the rear or use a test light,either way that seems to be the place that I would start looking as it seems to coincidental that it has happenned like that.

To me "click click"sounds like the starter is not getting enough power to operate the solenoid properly so I would suggest checking wiring connections to the battery and or starter solenoid,a bad earth, maybe even a faulty battery. It definitely sounds electrical to me though.

pics are nice but would love some words,tell us about it,pls!!

+1

Or maybe you could get on with your work and sort your other issues out when you get home instead of making generic comments while providing no information/explanation and then dish out on people who are just trying to yank your chain!!! They like to have a bit of fun here sometimes!

could it be the switch for a fan speed controller?can't remember a sliding type dimmer switch.

It would be my guess that the drip rails would be formed and rolled into each individual section,the roof section and the upper body section,and then pressed together spot welded and rolled as the two sections are fitted together.This being the case,if you cut it off the roof would be left un-attached so I would think that as you removed a section you would have to hammer and dolly it into shape and weld before moving on too far ahead,would def. need some bog or lead work to tidy it up.I don't know anyone who has actually done it though!

I would always reccommend permatex,Ive had no problems with gaskets moving and I use it on nearly all my gaskets whether they really need it or not and have had no other problems with it.

Maybe the engine mount rubbers are shot?? Really good that it has a 5k though.

Maybe don't rev it to hard but otherwise I think you just got to drive it gently,don't think there's much else you can do now but then again I'm often wrong.

to each his own opinion,just relaying what I had been expressly told by professional tyre fitter/wheel supplier when I had a similiar set up.

Now for a different opinion! I'm not overly familiar with how the standard ke70 wheels fit BUT the theory is that the load is carried on the hub and the studs are there to keep the wheel pulled in. Theoretically,as the rim is not centred on the load bearing hub it is able to move around and therefore break studs.Now,as I said,that is the theory but stacks of people fit wheels like yours every day and get away with it. Only other suggestion I could give is that you get a couple of collars machined up to take up the slack,have to be a tight pressure fit so they don't rattle out though!

Will think on it! I'm not definite about a ke70 so may consider other options.Chuck a few pics up if you have any and I'll give it some thought.Where are you?

yea mate,the one at Kilsyth!Like you say,at least you can drive it round the car park.Inside is A1,good seats,good dash,no cracks,good carpet but as you say,bound to be lots of other stuff to sort out but seemed a good price and a good start..

So,who reckons $770 is a good price for a ke70 slant nose with 132000 on the clock,no reg,auto,minimal rust above the drivers side tail light and bottom passenger side rear wheel well plus slight panel damage to rear drivers side quarter,all easily repairable as I have welder,spray equipment etc etc.Paint basically good,windscreen good.

Hey,if your talking about doing a proper 4age conversion to a ke70 and your complaining about $300 for a crossmember,maybe you should have 2nd thoughts because its definitely going to cost you money and if you plan to drive this on the road then it just has to be done the right way and there are only so many right ways and they all cost!

Hey,what suburb are you in? Lots of paint shops can mix you up a spray can to suit a sample of your color,so say,take in your petrol flap and they will match best as possible to that.Otherwise,if your anywhere near Milsome paints in ferntree gully, go there and ask,they mix paint but also give good advice from my experience.

No matter what the age or type of vehicle,no matter what state your in,if you want to drive it on the road it HAS to comply with that states roadworthy/licensing requirements,you can't cheat your way out of it by saying that your shitbox has class and deserves to be allowed on the road because its a classic,thats just the way it is!

Try google,its been done before but hope your not planning to put it on the road,legally,because that probably wont happen due to regs etc.

can't see any reason for a problem but right above about a receipt for the engine etc as Ive just gone through the same thing with an ae82,went to get it registered,booked the appointment over the phone,they wanted all the info about the car then said thats not the engine that the computer says was in that car! Long story short,only had a purchase receipt for the car,nothing for the engine so had to do a stat dec. that the car came fitted with that engine when I bought it.Stupid thing,when I actually took it for reg,they never even questioned it or checked,just made sure the engine no. matched the road worthy certificate no. that was it,now your registered!

what about the tilden (i think thats what there called) race pedal set up that has the masters mounted to them under the dash with remote reservoirs and a remote booster behind a guard or similiar?You may even be able to reverse mount off the original pedal assembly with a bit of fab.I know someone here did a reverse mount for the clutch master on a ke70 original manual cable pedal assembly so maybe it could be done with the brake master too,just a thought!

Personally,if it were me I would just go the 4age upgrade then think about mods to it later.As far as rear disc's are concerned,if they came on that model and you don't have them,then fitting should be a virtual bolt on changeover so not that hard really,just get everything you need from the donor. I guess anything else you want to do to it is a question of personal choice and money,probably suspension upgrades would be your best option,shocks,springs etc.

Sounds like your dash and rear light issue may be a faulty switch rather than a fuse if you can get them to work a bit when you fiddle the position between high and low beam,because you have power there,poven by the fact of what I said above.. Good looking buy for $250,can't really go wrong.

Sell it and laugh all the way to the bank! Reg,Insurance,etc etc are all costs that you can't recoup,as much as you would like to,so if you can get 5K GO for it.