jimmy-d

Hope Ballarat and Creswick make it through OK,I have family and friends at both,good luck to all of you and again my sympathy and best wishes to EVERYONE affected by this situation. As the old tmers would say,"keep your chin up and take it day by day"

i would guess that like anything else it will come down to how much you have to spend.it may be possible still but only through the assistance of an engineer as things have changed so much with vic. build regs now,as said,first and most important step,call an engineer FIRST. i

to everyone,take care and stay safe, me and mine will all be thinking of you and hoping for the very best outcome possible.corolla's are great but don't chance your own safety trying to save one,look after yourselves and your families and we hope to hear from you all when this is over.. ps sorry about the poor structure and punctuation but i just broke my collar bone in 2 places so i'm typing with one finger

I would have thought cautious sanding would have been the best option,time consuming but I wouldnt use chemicals for fear of reactions or leaching etc. don't know how much work or what condition your boat is in but couldnt you light sand,fill imperfections with glass then just prime and paint with marine grade paints etc.

where in melbourne are you,pm if you like, as if your not far away I can POSSIBLY get hold of a hoist from a mate and bring it over for the day,just depends if I can get in touch with him.

Got to say I agree with ke70dave,the rusted shell sounds terrible,I'm not familiar with the condition of the "pearl" but you really do need to make a decision to commit and then just get on with it.I can't see swapping things over being a big deal,are there other issues you haven't mentioned that make it a problem or are you just not sure about your committment to the car,maybe underneath you want to update and thats holding you back! Anyway,I'm sure that there will be many conflicting opinions here so really its just up to you so good luck either way you choose to go..

sorry andy43 but I could never accept that solution as a safe and reasonable proposition as far as a road going car is concerned,the sheer load on that plate would have me worried although I can certainly see how it works etc and I would assume that you are using it on a track car. Thanks everyone for the input,looks like I'll go xt130 lca's to begin with,nolothane bushes and a full xt130 changeover later with camber tops fitted as the functioning project is refined.

would have thought it fairly easy to sort out,from my memory,2 wires go to the light on the shifter,just check your old shifter see what color they are then just tape them up,don't join them together or you'll blow a fuse.The rest,one would be power from your ignition to the saftey switches and one from these switches to the starter soleniod,you just need to find these two and join them together. Maybe,with the ignition held in the start position,find the live wire and just touch it to the other wires until you find the one that kicks the starter over,those are the ones you need to join,anyway,food for thought,good luck.

just got a ke70 roller shell and starting to think about a new build plan. I always like to put pen to paper and have the majority of issues worked out and documented before I start anything! Current plans are the standard 4age,or possibly something different,I have an idea but still in planning at present,slammed to legal height,slight offset on front rims (size and type currently undecided).Reason for wanting camber,I am of the understanding that it helps better with cornering(although wearing tyres more quickly) and as I live in the hills I want it to sit tight,corner tight and be good to drive. Bending struts? may sound stupid I agree but read it as a suggestion on here when someone else asked the question.Personally at present I was considering XT130 LCA's and adjustable tops but as I said,just asking questions and getting answers.Budget is tight and I know that its going to cost so want to spend where I get most bang for my buck and economise where practical at this time,re asses when its a runner. No,I'm not a school kid on holidays with $5 to spend but this is the first project Ive done in a while and that I plan on doing RIGHT,full road reg etc etc.so I'm going to start right from the beginning. Anyway,thanks for the info.

Whats the cheapest,easiest and safest way to get camber on a ke70,LCA's ?,bend the struts ? or other ideas,don't have a lot of cash so budget project.

When you turn the ignition on,you say that some things work and some don't,if you turn the ignition to the start position does the battery light on the dash fade to nearly nothing,if so it is probably a battery issue. Are you sure the soleniod on the starter is working,bridge out the terminals and see if that makes any difference.

Thanks for that,so my understanding is that the difference is entirely in the inclination/construction of the engine mounts. Regards Pete.

Ok,so I know the difference between ke70(k series parts)and ae71(a series parts)but what is the ACTUAL difference in front crossmembers? Is it engine mount location on the crossmember,the bracing plate inside the engine mounts on a ke70 or the shape of the mount? What is the real physical difference that makes them so unsuitable for the 4age conversion? Yes I searched it but did not get the answers that I'm looking for!

Honestly I don't ever really give a shit bout what others think about the cars I drive,Its my personal expression and a love for a different time in motoring history.Anyway,I'm sure that there just jealous underneath,not everybody has the vision and skill to build something that is classic and gets noticed!! My secret,I just ignore them.

Mate,I would have told him to stop dead in his tracks,if you have a promise of a 5k and get a 4k then he hasnt fulfilled his part of the deal!don't pay him and threaten legal action,do you have anything in writing?Maybe use the car with the 4k while he sorts you out the right engine but its his fault not yours,geez mechs. can be a pain in the arse sometimes,anyway,good luck whichever way it goes!!!

Hi guys,just a little note of caution about having your freshly painted body stored under a tarp! I recently had an experience of having a body stored for a period of time under a tarp outside and although it was waterproof and did not get wet in any way,the humidity underneath the tarp buggered up the paintwork something terrible.Fortunately it was only a quick coat for protection while it was stored but I basically had to start from scratch again due to the damage etc.The paint really needs to be able to breath and allow the thinnerts etc to evaporate naturally.Maybe I'm wrong and maybe it was somehow my fault but this is the explanation I was given by an experienced painter..

Hey,was the ke at pick a part a blue slant nose cause if it was I got the inlet manifold and carb of it about a month ago!

did you heat it before you pulled it off or just yank at it,as simple as a job may seem,sometimes its good to ask the question before you do it because even the simplest of little things often have a secret or easier way to do that others have found out from experience. Anyway,I think your only real options are as above or try to get a rattle can match,mask, prime,fill and paint the strip area only.Anyway,good luck whatever you do!

Thanks,yea,I'm familiar with the yellow canary down here but just wondered if it was another states excuse for the same thing.Apart from the terminology,the outcomes appears the same wherever you are.

Ok,quick question, what do you guys mean when you say your car failed Regency and was defected? I'm in Vic so not familiar with the term,is it like a road worthy check or to do with ownership details,just interested..

Think there may be issues with the sump but I'm sure others with more knowledge than me will get back to you.

+1 for the above comment,I can weld and I can f/glass and for a long term solid rust free repair I would always recommend welding and what you spend now you will Know doubt save when it all starts to crack under flex etc which I can almost guarantee it will in time.I guess the real question is "how long your keeping it for",are you going to dolly it up for a quick sale or is it a keeper.

Not neccessarily relevant to the thread but regards Centre Road wreckers,I think so many older cars pass through there is because that is where a lot of insurance companies sell of their wrecks too!I just had a 92 Magna written of and the assessor rang Centre Road wreckers for a value when he was organising the payout figures.

Hi,was just wondering,when flaring the front guards on a ke70,do you keep the plastic dirt/mud deflector inside the guard or do most people just throw it away and paint etc the area that was behind it,seems to me that it will just flop around and make noise if left.

Each to his own mate!Sure there are better things out there but- 1/ I like to be different 2/actually if you do the research they can be quite hot 3/because I have not seen one More than likely I will come up with a better proposition but I'm always open minded about options and opportunities and thats what keeping rollas on the road is all about. Sorry you don't like the idea but do I really care?I'm into positives not negatives,yea,maybe it will be shit but I'll learn something from it wont I(hopefully) No bad feelings mate,just MY opinion..