jimmy-d

Just because you have 11+ volts at the battery when you do a standing test does not mean that it is ok as if there is a problem the battery will drain when under load eg. cranking. Follow the advice of the guys above. Your description definitely sounds to me like there is an issue with voltage at the actual starter and of course the dimming lights. PS- there should be a heavy wire of the negative side of the battery and connected to the body via a bolt in the vicinity of the battery and also a thinner wire joining the body of the car to the engine block often down near the gearbox area.

Generally,the solid feel that you get from operating a switch is built in to the switch via a spring return or other such,the physical plug at the rear that connects the wiring harness to the switch should have NO affect on the feel or operation of the switch.I would say your switch is or just about is buggered.

I may be wrong and I'll be told so if I am but I think that the very early 4 stud ford wheels might fit the ke70,I'm talking about the XK/XL/XM/XP series and I think they were 14 inch.

It seems to me that most answers to this question are still missing the main point of interest!When he removes the lead from direct attachment to the plugs and just holds them in a near vicinity so that the spark can jump,everything is ok! I'm not overly mechanically inclined but it seems to me then that the issue has to be either faulty leads,some sort of issue with the plugs in those cylinders or some sort of short between plug and lead when in contact with each other. Forgive me if I sound uninformed and overly simplifying the issue,I just can't see how carbies/manifolds/cam lobes etc can be the issue when it runs perfectly under the described test situation. Hope you all have a good easter.

I like big time!!

Show us the build pics you got,we're all interested..

don't forget about the speedo cable,sometimes it is so tight there is no slack so you have to undo it also,thats what happenned on mine..

Totally agree about the black,slightest imperfections in the body are magnified to such a point that it can really look shit plus they get and look dirty so quickly your always cleaning if you want it to look good.Other thing with color change is its a big job to do properly,inside door sills,frames etc etc,guess it depends on how much time,money and inclination you have but doesnt it always?

depends on where you are,I have one and you can have it but I'm in melbourne eastern subs!

Thanks heaps,I will have to sort through it best I can,I assume that the reference to the magnetic clutch on the diagrams would be the compressor clutch,the wiring of which appears to go directly to a magnetic clutch relay which I will assume for present is in the fuse box by the battery.I will check when I have time and let you know what I find,thanks again,Pete.

Well I'm getting no where quickly,so to recap so far- My compressor does work because if I put a 12v supply to it with the car running,the solenoid will pull in and the compressor will rotate. With the car running,the fan switched on,the heat selector to cool,to a/c button pushed in- If I unplug the wiring at the valve behind the battery and bridge out the plug there is still no positive supply to the wire that feeds the compressor at the connector plug near the compressor,this only appears to affect the operation of the fans so obviously what ever or where ever this wire that connects to the compressor originates from it is getting no supply,faulty connection,broken wire,dashboard switches??? Maybe it will all come down to a question of line pressure for the refrigerant but I'm stumped and it seems like a reasonable assumption that what ever i do,if there is not enough refrigerant in the system it wont work anyway so thanks but I guess I will just have to wait till I can afford to gas it,thank god Melbourne weather has not been too bad so far..

yes,cabin fan on,temp switch slid down to cool,car running,radiator fans cycling on and off when car has warmed up,a/c button pushed in to on position(tried this with economy button also) but no action from compressor.Maybe there is another low pressure sensor somewhere and I will just have to get it gased and see or maybe there is another wiring problem,will continue to check it out but can't afford to get it gased if its going to cost $1200 so will wait and see.Thanks Trev and all others for assistance..

yes,a/c was on in car but as I said,although fans had been running full time now they are not, just cycling on/off and comp still not going.Am going to do some more checks,will get back if I come up with anything but I guess gas must def. be low.

Good news and bad news,I think! I found the soleniod I think you were talking about,half way between the battery and the firewall on the small diameter pipe,I disconnected and shorted the plug,the compressor still did not work but the radiator fans stopped.I say this is good news for the fans because they had both been running continuously whenever the car was going and never stopped,now they cycle on and off like I expect they are meant to but the compressor is still not engaging unless,as I said earlier,I run a positive supply to it from the battery bypassing all the other wiring.Any ideas??

Thanks guys,I'll check out the pressure switch today.$1200 to update a/c system says a lot for opening the window but not really the same is it!I think there is a place around here somewhere that can still recharge old systems so I will look into what alternatives and options there are.Thanks again,always good to have people in the know at the touch of a keyboard..

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a ae82 4 door sedan 4a/c single cam 1.6? My a/c compressor is not getting power to operate so I'm wondering where it is switched from!If I run a positive direct from the battery it works fine so the problem is definitely in the switching of the power supply. The a/c button and the economy button both have power to them as they light up fine when the fan is on so I'm wondering where else to look!Only other option seems to be to wire in a bypass switch direct from dash to compressor with positive supply but I would prefer to have it work properly if possible. Any and all help appreciated.Thanks.

A real prick of an act by a pack of c##nts! You'd want to undo their nuts with the appropriate size socket!

My mistake,for some reason was thinking 20b as in nissan 2.0ltr(called a 20b)wasnt thinking rotary,to early in the morning!

Have heard of a 180b engine in a ke70 but don't know about sump,engine height etc etc,may have been some mods required.Sure it could be done though there are certainly better options..

Wow,you can actually get away with driving that on the road,I'm impressed!

Great to hear that it has shown up but sorry about the missing parts,guess something back is better than nothing.Hope you manage to track it down to the responsible culprit for everyones sake because I think there may be a que starting for a chance to rip into him and his sort,save me a spot!

looks sort of cool, is it factory or some sort of local conversion.Ive seen a few of them around and been tempted but never really been keen on how the roof is finished.Good luck,seeing your other projects I know it will turn out COOL!

What happened to the engine/turbo combination and plans for rego,did I miss it in a post or could you not get it done without the engineering,would be interested to know!

don't be so silly! It turned of at the lights..

Does it have a fuseable link at the battery?If you have a tester,check power at the fuse box!