jimmy-d

May be worth checking it out first before spending to much! True or not I have been told that with the introduction of unleaded fuels,it disolves the floats on some senders on older cars and this leads to reading errors!

Not sure if its relevant or not but do you have any fuseible links in the vicinity of th battery? An ae82 that I have has 2 seperate links mounted of the positive battery terminal,if you have these maybe one has blown.

March 14 months ago (2010) knocked the shit out of Melbourne. Insurance is slow but lost over 10 grand worth of cars and didnt get that back in assessed value!

Even shagged they still contribute to ridgity,in my opinion anyway!

All you can do is have a go mate,probably can't be any worse than th hail dents.Just remove the head lining,get yourself a metal dolly and a flat hammer and tap away gently from inside with the dolly over the place that your tapping on the outside,you wont be able to get rid of all the dent because of metal stretching.Take your time and you can achieve a reasonably good job, bog out the rest,not too much bog if you can help it,just the smallest skim coat you can get away with.Cheers.

Either let your fingers do the walking or if you happen to ever buy Street Machine magazine I think they have a contact list for engineers.Exactly where are you and I may be able to give you some addresses/numbers.

For the amount of pipework etc that you would probably need to make it half way safe for you,you could build your self a bare buggy chassis and just add the running gear!As in the video,if you take much more than that off your just asking for trouble,might become a transformer and turn into a metal coffin for you!!

i guess you know that a rolla does not have a chassis,they are mono construction, so,if you cut the body of down to floor level it will basically fold in half.Only way out of this is a full welded chassis eg like a beach buggy,not the type built on a vw floor pan but the racing type with full fab chassis. If you leave it alone from the dash forward you may be able the weld up enough bracing!Really depends where your going to cut and what you plan to leave.

National Code of Practice for rotary engines says- Displacement X 2 = swept volume X 2 = allowable engine size So a 12a at 573 x 2 = 1146 x 2 = 2292cc So again it depends on the actual listed weight but under 800kg X 3, 800 to 1100kg X 4 for a n/a engine,both the previous have to be multiplied by 2.5 or 2.75 respectively If a ke30 is accepted at 880kg/ 880 x 4 = 3520cc for n/a for rotary 880 x 2.5 = 2200cc A 12a displaces 2292cc according to code of practice so technically too big/not allowable BUT its up to the Engineer to certify isnt it! This is how I read it anyway and I have referred directly to my copy of the code.

yea,I lost 2 cars,total write offs from the hail storm,1 insured 1 not,thems the breaks! If you can't afford to buy new panels then best you can do is remove what you can, beat the dents out a bit and use as little bog as posible,guess the roof will be the hardest,3 options,1/ as above 2/just bog it all 3/find a donor roof and have it fitted . As you said time and patience! Was a ke70,paid $500,was clean,rego,nearly rust free,straight 4k + auto, bloody hail storm really screwed me around!!!

A quick investigation says that a ke30 weighs around 880kg so according to National Code of Practice, 880 X 4= 3520,therefore, 3.52 ltr max normally aspirated.If turbo or S/C multiply weight by 2.75, this equates to 2.42 ltr. If the weight I have used is wrong,substitute correct weight to same equation. Still need to confirm ok with engineer though!

No mate,not a mechanic,just a player,if you get what I mean,do what I can,have a go at other things then pay someone for the rest. Yea,4,6 or 8,I don't care,if its got an engine and I think I can do something with it thats all that matters to me,I'm an old fart so gone through a lot of cars in my lifetime. The KE was a project I had lined up but got trashed in the Melbourne hail storm last year,so I just lost interest and went on to other things,stripped some of it out for another project and sold the rest. I'm out the south eastern subs of melb.,upper ftg. I may go about things arse about but I usually try to get my mechanicals organised first before body work unless Ive got no cash,then I fiddle around with sanding,rust repair,welding etc till I can get back to the mechanicals.Not to long ago a guy told me a little poem,OK,I can hear you saying don't give me shit but on reflection Ive found it works quite well,its basically about patience which is something you will need- inch by inch its a cinch,yard by yard its too hard!So,don't get carried away and take on too much at once, no matter what you do,as long as you do,your heading in the right direction!

The difference between a 5k and a 4age are quite substantial! The 5k would be a near bolt in fit while the 4age will require some fabrication both of engine parts eg rear water outlets,plenum chamber cut and shut,computer etc and structural parts eg crossmembers etc.Like I said,how good are you at DIY,how much do you want to spend and how much time have you got.In the long run its all up to you. At the moment Ive just flogged my ke70 and am putting a 4k and auto into a Morris minor sedan,building a Morris ute etc etc but still looking out for another ke and have found a flat front down the road,just got to nag the owner enough to part with it!In younger days I built Chevs,trucks,holdens blah blah blah,you get the idea,never been without at least 3 cars in the yard. Hope your plans are coming together,good luck.

Mate,surely by now "she" the one who must be obeyed,usually,must know that your an absolute corolla junkie.Plead,beg bribe,there has to be a way you can get it IF you really really want it.Hell,Ive had 6 cars in my small driveway at one time and was still looking and you can't get to my house unless you go through the driveway.Keep an eye on it,keep dropping hints until she is fed up with you and just says go buy it!!

Hi,it comes from the national code of practice so I would have to regard it as a general rule for all modifications.You can of course get around the limitations but them you have to build as an ICV (individually constructed vehicle) and this requires much much more work,certification and expense. With all the options available,turbo,supercharger,modification etc for the 4age there is no doubt that you will be able to get your car moving. Cheaper option is to go 5k,still good for a small light car,much cheaper and can still turbo,super charge etc.

yeh! as I said in first post,check search function,answer is bound to be there!Just thought I might of made it a little easier to begin with..

Ok,just thought that I had read a post here where the panel was changed,maybe just done for the hell of it because they had it.

Heaps of info,use the search function top right of page but generally you need to swap- panel in front of windscreen bonnet left and right guards stone tray radiator support panel (unless you modify existing one for mounting of lights etc as they are not a straight swap) Think thats it but as I said,check search or wait for someone to correct me if I'm wrong!

Well,as I said,I think you really need to talk to an engineer,especially if this is a road car and if it does not have rego already but the jist of it is this,and I stand to be corrected! Weight of car (if under 900kg) X 3 = allowable engine capacity,therefore lets say car weighs 700kg X 3 = 21 which means max.allowable engine size is 2.1 ltr.,V6 commodore is above this allowable limit. If car is over 900kg (these are only approx weights,I can give you exact if you need them) you can multiply by 4 to get max engine allowed. If you use the search function in top right hand of page and type your question you should come up with some info,otherwise google it. Whatever you choose,4age,sr20 etc etc be prepared to spend at least 3k plus,all depends on your skill level for DIY plus engineer costs,usually around $700+ mark depending on degree of difficulty. Anyway,good luck. PS- yes,4age would be a good choice in my opinion!

Welcome to the forum,as already said,heaps of useful stuff and people with ideas,some tried and tested,some new and inspirational,just got to pick what suits you. I assume your building your project as a road car so I would suggest that V6 (I'm assuming you mean commodore) is not really an option and sr20 will be a lot of work and money,I'd suggest that for your first effort you maybe keep to the 4age idea,its pretty straight forward,will still cost you money,heaps of people have done it with experience to share and as this is your 1st project,is probably more achievable while you get some experience. But,just my 2 cents worth and in the end,its your car so don't be put of,main piece of advice is talk to an engineer so that you don't waste your time and money then find it will never get on the road! GOOD LUCK and keep us posted..

PM sent to young buk,hope he now understands my comments,no put downs or nothing derogatory meant-as stated,if he can do it,good,innovation helps all of us!!

Sounds like you hav a plan so go ahead and try.You asked the question and got the best advice from people who know so I don't think there is much more left for anyone to say accept hope it works for you!

don't know whether you know but there are mobile welders who will come to you,Ive used one before to weld sills to a FB holden,their work is ok but you need to have everything organised and ready for them to go.From memory cost me around $100,cheaper than hiring a trailer and karting it to a welding shop,just a thought.

Hell man,what a thoughtful missus,mine would probably just say every car for itself,this will clear the driveway of scrap metal!Sounds like she supports your efforts,great!

I've had a rolling shell I was trying to sell for $100 and got no takers so the ball is really in your court,offer what you think its worth to you but from what you say I wouldn't think anything over $200 max. PS-I bought a complete running just out of reg 83 ke70 265000k's auto for $500