I think I will make the headlights work better too, I guess a relay is the way to go but is it more elegant to replace the crispy old cables and terminals in the factory loom?

 

I'm even considering driving lights for the full rally experience.

 

Been playing with the tune and I have the idle much sweeter and some better calibrations. Found the middle areas of the map were way rich and did some blanket style corrections and its much closer to the mark and sounds like its running cleaner. Fuel gauge is working immaculate and even giving a low fuel warning light when appropriate. I've not previously had a corolla that had one that worked.

 

I'm trying to work out how to make the idle controller kick up a bit when the fan comes on. I've done it with a fairly dumb system by making idle increase a couple of steps one degree before the fan comes on but its not perfect, ideally Id use a logic only output to tell a logic only digital input to up the idle in the idle control settings, which Ive tried but I cannot quite get my head around how exactly to relate aux in and outputs.

Just get one of these for your headlights. Not worth the hassle making your own when they're this cheap. I used a similar kit on my ke70. Just turns the factory setup into a relay switch.

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121761339033&alt=web

Bought some led bulbs for the dash lights that weren't yet swapped over or working. I think Medicine man put some in my other cluster too and I forgot to swap em over.

 

I have now cut out a vent hole in the cap as 55 degree inlets arent ideal. I have had a louvred piece made to match and that's screwed over the opening.

 

Whos coming to test and tune tonight?

BTW BCF is much cheaper than sca or repco for the Narva range. Between 30 and 75 % cheaper on all items.

Best of the night was 15.135 with a 2.249 60 foot time. Have to baby it off the line it spins hard if you don't. I'm going to need grippier tyres to better the time I think as it just cannot use all the torque. Also i think if I went to 3.7 rear end it would accellerate as fast but need one less gear change, its geared way short. It leaps up out of corners but sells itself short on the quarter mile.

If you like the current gearing for street use then you could just find yourself a pair grippy tyres that are taller and fix both your drag gripes in one action

Not a bad idea however I wan to pull less rpm at 100 and save fuel too. I'm looking into 3.7s or 3.53 final drive. I did the math on it just then and it seems ideal.

nice work mate, what mph?

Best mph was 92.26 I think. I used to get 88 or 89 with the 20v so I'm keen to see how much better I can get this.

 

Back tyres are roached too, they are the same ones I was racing on 5 years ago with the 20v car. :oops:

nice mate, mph says there's plenty left in it with some good tyres.

Edited December 20, 201510 yr by oh what a nissan feeling!

Yes I agree. I was a bit off put by not having any info about oil pressure available so I made my own oil warning light. I installed the light between the ac vent and the wiper controls on the dash bezel so its right out there where you can never miss it. I realised after a while that the ae86 dash has a gauge and not a light but I had the switch that runs the light not the pressure sensor that would make the gauge work, so I just found a 12v ignition feed from an unused bit of wiring in the dash and wired in the pressure switch which simply pulls to ground when not under pressure. It works perfectly I'm very stoked and it only took 10 minutes. Need a shift light too, but I can make the ecu do that.

Today I removed the hatch and refitted it more accurately as its shrunk a bit. I got a much better fit, I'm happy with how it sits I just need to scribe it to have even margins. Might not need the pins now its fitting better but I guess we will see when I get onto some bumpy roads.

 

I also fitted a much better condition headlight and when I removed the old one I realised the reflector was brown with rust so no surprise how dim the headlights were. Cheers Tristan for the light.

Damn that's got some go to it.

It goes better now. :lovin: I had trimmed up the rich afrs a lot over the past few logging :jason: sessions but now its come pretty good all at once with the vvti adjustments I made. A DC member messaged me some interesting flow graphs referenced by vvti angle and rpm, so I was able to judge from that info (albeit from a beams :osama: ) a better trend to make the vvti follow :arrow: . I seem to have made the torque come on strong down low and be more linear, motor sounds happier and makes less chirpy squeaky inlet noise as it revs up even from very low rpm. Rich afrs are about spot on except for one or two cruising map segments where it needs a thimbleful more.

 

Thanks to the man from Auckland for the graphs and advice on a few more tuning ideas with my air box project.