LittleRedSpirit Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Posted October 7, 2011 Been too busy with work to do anything. Perhaps this week one day I will find the time to go and finish the tubes up with a linisher. Then it just needs welding. The spacing is perfect Sam, Job well done. Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 7, 2011 Report Posted October 7, 2011 Good to hear but apart from the machining I just delegated this job Quote
diegoh Posted October 8, 2011 Report Posted October 8, 2011 I prefer the 2az over the SR anyday for its weight and NA potential as summarised by lilredspirit right on the buzzer. The CA18 has the same no skirt design with the same main girdle or main bearing ladder brace for over 800hp without issues. The bottom end could easily take longer ARP main bolts and a laser cut 1.5cm chro moly plate main bearing ladder brace/girdle with a a custom made alloy sump with quality alloy plate and good tig welder itll be much cheaper than CNC and as reliable. A mob in Adel specialize in very affordable custom ally sumps. I love the idea of this engine in rwd equally to the Mazda Z series and post 2007 revised QR25DE fitted with SR20 crank and custom rods. All weight about the same and can produce over 200hp with small mods. Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 8, 2011 Report Posted October 8, 2011 mazda Z series? I need to look up that one Now matt in your research have you ever found anyone to have done as much mods to this engine as what you have lined up? are you the first to push this engine without boost? Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Posted October 8, 2011 Well I've found plenty of near stock scions with about 200hp atw, basic mods, just better headers (but still a poor design thanks to tight bay clearances), cold air intake pipe, Lightened flywheel, and 11:1 pistons. I have not yet seen an itb version of this motor, as it simply doesn't fit in the fwd cars. I'm pretty excited about how it might perform. Interestingly, removal of the balance shafts which are kinda small restores only 6-7 hp atw, so f@$k that, ill pick more than that up by raising compression, itbs, a nice set of 4-2-1s and a good tune. Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 8, 2011 Report Posted October 8, 2011 doing a bit of reading I read in some repair manual and it says the engine uses very liners that can't be bored however the pistons are +0.5mm, I don't see any notes about needing linders to be fitted Quote
Trev Posted October 8, 2011 Report Posted October 8, 2011 Well I've found plenty of near stock scions with about 200hp atw, basic mods, just better headers (but still a poor design thanks to tight bay clearances), cold air intake pipe, Lightened flywheel, and 11:1 pistons. I have not yet seen an itb version of this motor, as it simply doesn't fit in the fwd cars. I'm pretty excited about how it might perform. Interestingly, removal of the balance shafts which are kinda small restores only 6-7 hp atw, so f@$k that, ill pick more than that up by raising compression, itbs, a nice set of 4-2-1s and a good tune. Bit of an oxymoron considering that it is an 'opened' engine, one of those little scions would fly considering how well our standard sportivo camry's go. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Posted October 9, 2011 Its pretty basic if no machining is required. And its easy now when the motor is out of the car. You can call it whatever you want. Doenst change the fact that it will be done. Quote
irokin Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 Any plan for rods or at least rod bolts? I'd be doing it as a 'might as well'. Even if they're not stronger, stuff some lighter H beams in there? Quote
diegoh Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 I-beams are better than H-beams if you spend the extra 20% for A/M rods. Arent the factory items worth prepping for higher NA hp? Sorry Sam, got a block on my scone when I read L series for the MZR mazda engine as I consider the L series a datsun/nissan original. Its actually the MZR type engine but labeled as an L series. Would the 1AZ-FSE 86mm crank fit into the 2AZ block for a 2.116? Quote
irokin Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 I-beams are better than H-beams if you spend the extra 20% for A/M rods. Ah yes, of course and any failure will probably be in tension rather than compression too. Carillo make a super light A (I) beam. 496gm vs BCs 535 H beam. Quote
GJM85 Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 I would love to see the result of one of these engines with 48mm throttles, good extractors+exhaust, 270/270 cams and the hi-comp pistons with a good tune. Sorry if I missed it what's the stock rev cut on these? 6200rpm. Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 thanks GJM85 496 grams is quite a good weight considering a thin as 20v blacktop rod is 485g and 505g for silver. Anyone find the weight of a stock rod? Or how about the weight of an aftermarket piston Vs a stock one? and your right irokin, boosted engines need compressive strength - H beams but atmo engines with high revs can use the reduced weight of I beams because it's only tension loading. Quote
irokin Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 Looking at this the Carillos probably wouldn't be lighter than stock: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2237303&postcount=11 Apparently they're forged (Toyota describes them as being made from "high-strength steel for weight reduction") but I was thinking along the lines of extra RPM capability. Those rods look pretty spindly! Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 well I don't know about that, again refering to the 20v rods the blacktop rods look tiny compared to the black but are only 20g lighter but the spool rods look really chucky and are 20g lighter again Quote
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