LittleRedSpirit Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) Chopped the middle out of the D Max bonnet today. I'm simply going to make an arched piece of metal or plastic that picks up the angled edges and is highest through the middle to cover it, then smooth it in with some fibreglass. Its actually not quite as bad as I suspected it might be. I undid all the studs for the plastic cover in the top magnesium alloy engine cover, and refitted the pcv valve to it to see the height of it. The PCV valve is the highest part of the whole engine assembly. I had already folded down the throttle linkage and cable mount slightly to aide clearance. I have installed the new slave cylinder from a 4wd Y series Hilux. It strikes the fork best of all the slaves I have lying around the shed, being for a Y series bell housing anyhow, but it has a different orientation for the bleed and line connections. I ended up cutting down a bleed nipple below the nut and drilling a 2.5mm hole through it so you can tighten or loosen it. It works great. Misses the steering by enough and it sits behind the steering shaft so it wont rock into it. The steering/slave clearance: The Fuel reg under the throttles: The poke factor: Edited October 8, 2013 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Just organised to send this to the fabricators for the headers and exhaust system next week. At the same time Ill have a couple of rusty bits fixed up in the floor and the crinkled spare wheel well straightened out. There's a bunch of small welding and metal fab related jobs that need doing. I either need to buy a welder and spend forever ʞ©$ɟing around under the car with it, or get it somewhere with a hoist and welder, get it done, and do it soon. I figured the latter is better since it has to go to the fabricators for the exhaust anyhow. Gives me a week to work out the remote clutch reservoir and the other details it needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japlish Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 lookin good man :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Been going mental looking for the right fittings to connect shit up, Fitted the radiator filler tank today on a bracket I knocked up from plumbing saddles and an odd steel bunnings bracket. Also was able to mock mount the lower radiator brackets and test fit, all works great. They are just stud grippers from Bunnings that will be spot welded in. Perfect size! Fabricated my own fitting for the clutch bottle relocation. Also was working on the idle control chamber. Its just going to have the PCV and the 4 inlet ports hooked up to it. The 4 linlet ports are at one end, the PCV in the side, and the idle control will plug in at the other end of the chamber opposite the port connections, so they are all equidistant from the idle control air source. That was the simplest way i could come up with to ensure all 4 ports are able to get the exact same amount of air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 looking good mate. Great idea on that "manifold". As for the airbox, I'm not entirely sure what you are proposing. Do you have a sketch of what you are thinking of? Ive done a smallish amount of fibreglassing, and i was looking for excuses to have another go at it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 Dave I would be grateful for any help. I have some sock filters here to get it running with initially, but I may as well get right into it and do the airbox I need to pass rego and perform best. If you wanna come over and exchange ideas while actually looking at the thing, you're more than welcome. I need to mount the last few electrical items (idle controller, thermo fan, and then Ill have to send out some tyre smoke signals to the Medicine Man to get some electrons flowing through her veins. I have a bunch of wiring in boxes I will need to sort through and organise. There's the 2az loom, the ecu blank loom, an ae82 big port engine and front of body loom, an adm ae86 front loom and dash looms, a trueno front of body and under dash loom. I need to lay them out, id them, and work out the ideal combination of factory look and simplicity, and hopefully amongst all the madness I have something that will work and let me wire the whole car. I have a couple of oversize and ultra loud horns I'm going to wire in also. They came from an ae86 half cut I bought years ago, I'm wondering if they are as loud as they look like they would be. Good for scaring the wildlife out of the way on those long country drives. I'm also wondering about installing a couple of spotlights for better night vis. How do levin lights usually look for brightness and beam coverage? It would also make night time Go Pro filming more meaningful at the track and whatnot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 I love Ebay. Just was able to purchase a bonds cage for ae86, bolt in type, for $365 brand new. Woot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 That's a sweet bargain! I do not envy you with the electrical work, good luck with it! :y: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Hopefully the wiring will not be too hard. Its really just a matter of wiring the engine like any other minimal standalone system. In reality it will be no more of a job than a 20v with cop ignition, except you have to factor in the different triggering and having a CAS factory. Also the VVTI will need to be programmed as opposed to the vvt on off simplicity. I'm hoping to drive a stock Toyota 2azfe engine in a rav 4 (most powerful stock tune) with the ecu data scan hooked up so I can datalog the tuning and learn what I can about how Toyota manages the engine. I can build from there with my tuning. Obviously the intake is vastly different and should require more transient throttle enrichment to maximise, and the stock VVTI settings will be all about torque with minimal emissions. Torque is really the aim so I don't want to get too far into chasing top end numbers on stock cams and pistons. Maybe later on when I fit the 11:1 pistons to the engine. At that time it would be prudent to at least clean up the intake and exhaust ports properly and consider camshafts. I still want to run vvti though and have as much low down as possible, so I don't think there are any options out there for that. The body wiring isnt too complicated, and I think I have enough here to connect it all up adm style, I have zenki lotus tail lights with their own new wiring, and just regular adm levin headlights, I'm unsure of the front bar to use, I have a roughish zenki bar with a beat up lip, and a kouki bar with slight damage from when timbo got clipped on the Motorway in his kouki panda levin. I have lights for both bars, so i could put either on. I'm leaning towards kouki but don't really know how different the headlights are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 OK, did a bunch more. I fitted the remote brake fluid reservoir from a spacia van to hold clutch fluid. it fits really neatly under the bonnet, I wanted it to sit as high as it could to gravity feed. Pretty happy with it. Finished the idle control manifold and mounted it. Also mounted the idle controller to an engine mount. Fitted the stock ae86 coolant overflow bottle to the drivers strut tower. Dropped it off the stands and got it rolling again, to see how high I have the coilovers sitting. Bit high but fine to work on. I might put the radiator brackets in with a couple of self tapper screws for now, and then I can look at what needs doing for the top mount threads. I'm not happy with the coolant overflow bottle, I'm thinking I will change to a metal one with a proper radiator cap fitment, so it will bleed at the right pressure into the overflow bottle like a stock vehicle. I noticed there are no metal lines in the car right now for the fuel/supply/return and breather. I think I might just upgrade them to 5/16th supply return and remake the lines as I don't think the stock lines are the correct size, not from the adm car anyhow. I think that is a job for once the car comes back from getting the exhaust done. Now that I'm happy with the idle controller location, and the other bits are in place, I can consider wiring it also. I'm ringing Medicine man right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Its been booked to go this Monday for: Exhaust system Some sheet metal repairs in the floor Pre fit cage Fit the diff bush spacers Possibly tail shaft shortening Will be looked over with a view to Blue plating it Couple other minor welding repairs Just want to get as much done as possible while its there so I can have as small a list as possible to organise when it comes back. A bit more about the roll cage. Its 44.5 tubing diameter. Seems to be steel. Seems to come inside the dash and not through, but does it with straighter lengths than a lot of bolt in jobs. Seems to satisfy cams specs. Has a spare pair of bottom plates with it that I need the fabricator to trim and fit to the rear end wherever we decide to locate them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) Light-weight Edited October 28, 2013 by rian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diegoh Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 I missed it or didnt happen but did you weight the engine complete? definitely lightweight engine and body, I remember a FRP/Carbon notch back weighed in at around 760kg in 1997 while in Japan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Ill see how it comes out I guess. Be around stock weight when its on the road. The back seat is staying out, there is no sound deadening, but I might add some. Will be running carpet, plus cage, and extra diff and gearbox weight also. Take off a few for glass panels. The hatch is extremely light, until the glass goes in. Engine is 113 kgs, mounts are heavier than stock also. Radiator and cooling system is lighter, plus no big cast manifolds. Recaros are a little bit lighter than stock seats I think. Battery will be in the car somewhere, wherever it fits and balances out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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