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Longer Clutch Cable


oldie

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Hi all,

Another question I hope someone can help me with-

Discussing the clutch cable for a manual ke70,is there another cable available that has the same or similiar fittings at each end but is longer.Regarding the end fittings,it is more critical that the gearbox end be the same,the pedal end is not as critical.

Reason is that I actually have a morris minor with a 4k manual and I am working to connect up the clutch assembly so I need the gearbox end to suit the box but I can fabricate something individual for the pedal.

Just a pic or two for interest sake..post-14709-0-96500300-1358674243_thumb.jpgpost-14709-0-96177000-1358674258_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for replies so far,hadnt thought about LHD models,guess I would have to import it.Yes,Datsun A series are common and probably more common than 4k but they are both reasonably straight forward and common swaps although there are a few small issues with both choices.

Trev,I'll pm you some details as there is a bit to include but its not hard!

Edited by oldie
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looks like the US version is quite different regards the sheathing etc and quite a long length of exposed cable.Educated guess says it wont work the way I want it to.Might have to consider making it a direct operation via a rod or something from the pedal,its not hard on the pedal end but sorting out some sort of fitting to adapt to the fork lever could be a headache.

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I have a clutch cable out of an LC torana in my ke11. It's a fair bit longer than the cable that I broke. Only other difference is the plastic adjuster thing where the c/clip goes is a bigger diameter. A quick go on the linisher fixed that.

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Wouldn't mind info on this conversion as I have a 59 2 door that I will be restoring.

 

All the information you need Trev is on the Australian morris minor community forum - morrisdownunder

 

Join up Trev - some excellent info and people - like here ;) - the morris club from Ipswich is on there as well.

 

http://www.morrisdow...forum/index.php

 

All different types of engine conversions

 

Coln72 - everyone has moved on from datto's - very thin on the ground these days and getting a 5 speed is impossible for under $750 ...IF you can source one.

 

We have a few 4A-ge builds as well into morry's. :2thumbs:

 

Peter - standard cable is fine

Edited by frosty
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All the information you need Trev is on the Australian morris minor community forum - morrisdownunder

 

Join up Trev - some excellent info and people - like here ;) - the morris club from Ipswich is on there as well.

 

http://www.morrisdow...forum/index.php

 

All different types of engine conversions

 

Coln72 - everyone has moved on from datto's - very thin on the ground these days and getting a 5 speed is impossible for under $750 ...IF you can source one.

 

We have a few 4A-ge builds as well into morry's. :2thumbs:

 

Peter - standard cable is fine

 

Were you in the original Morrie club? if you were then you would remember us.

 

I just thought that after all the k conversions that there might have been a basic kit, prefer not to do the 4age convo due to the physical size, might stick with the A series in it.

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Peter - standard cable is fine

 

Thanks for that info BUT the way that mine is set up it would have to fold back on itself very tightly because I am using the original pedal assembly and I would have to strip the metal sheath of the cable,therefore I think the stress and radius of the bend would be unsuitable..

Edited by oldie
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Seems you already have it sorted...I've been making all my own cables for some years now. I've had trouble with the stock clutch cable breaking due to all the turns it makes in my LHD. I have actually gotten home with shoestrings tying the broken ends together. (or just killing it when i had to stop, putting it in first and hitting the ignition to take off) It seemed when I could order one, sometimes it would be bare cable sometimes coated but always broke in the same place under the dash on the second turn. I bought the thickest cable that would still fit through the original sheath. I had to cut the ferrules in half to fit in the space I had (the pedal connection has very little room for a bend but it can be done). So far I've gotten about 6 years out of this last one( I drive it every day at least 50 -60 miles), where the originals were going about every 2. Small tight bend on the pedal end, bit larger on the trans lever end with very small pieces of one of those metal cable loops to cover where the pedal and lever contact the cable to prevent wear. Laid out original to get length. Pretty easy to do... chop, chop, slide, bam, bam, done...and waay cheaper...about $3

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Thanks for the input,for the moment I think it is sorted but I haven't actually used it yet to get an idea of feel or life span.If it doesn't work I'll look more carefully into your suggestions.At present it will have only one large reasonably gentle bend in the engine bay and both ends are being pulled in a straight line so hope there will be minimal stress.My only real concern at present is regards flex of the cable when pressure is applied at the pedal,I may have to design some sort of physical support through the radius of the bend to stop any flexor loss of operational function,time will tell.

Regards Pete.

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