Crostek

How much boost are you loooking to run? none of the below have a cable clutch, but the nissan and toyota have electric clutch and could be used with a vac switch and by-pass valve from the likes of 4AGZE (have one if you want it) if low boost AMR 300 Bike super charge also nissan micra NO clutch AMR 500 Bike super charge also nissan micra NO clutch AMR 900 nissan superturbo, this has a clutch and was used on a 1000cc turbo and supercharged motor, (have one of these setups too) mid range boost Toyota SC12 from 4AGZE has clutch High range boost Toyota SC14 from 1GGZE or with high ratio pully from 2.4lt engine (unsure of the motor) (got one for sale too) M90 from holden/chev high boost :hmm: sky is the limit with this as its a screrw type blower and not a roots type, thus it is not limited in the rev's as the roots type is. hope this help there also thous' of other type out there

^^^ what he said cost you the same if the container is full or half full to ship it across

1 hydro here too

You will find it hard to find a relay to fit in that is 30A rated, you mite be lucky to find one from a Hilux 4WD. If you did try to pull 30A through the relay block there is also the chance you could burn it out! You would be better off putting in a slave relay that is fused connected to the battery?

By the time you buy all the bits and have the crank ground and bore and hone the block if need you could be in the $,000.00"s go with the 4 k and get the number changed on the rego, take a weekend to swap it over with a mate every thing same bolt in fit.

number 4 conrod looks to have parted company with piston, mite be good time to upgrade to 5k?

Did the dissy get replaced? It mite be out turn the motor over by hand with the plugs out and check the position of the dissy by the timming mark and when the points open

as above there are varies engine looms in the all varies year KE70, and if you are lucky your engine loom has the right wires in it to make the manual gearbox connection work,

Thats were Altezzeclub has put his connections to the switch for the reverse lights from the gearbox, instead of using the plug in loom in the engine bay as in the thread.

Thanks to altezzaclub

The wiring runs over to the left hand kick panel, inside it there is a plug which has the wires for start relay in it and the wires for the light under the shifter. the two wires for the park/start are the same colour (can think of it at the moment but will have a look in the book), I just made a plug with two crimp lugs and a short piece of wire on it to short it out. Wires are white with black trace

Far north NSW, mite find someone who lives in QLD that mite help?

Both the SC12 and SC14 have rotors made from extruded ally and are hollow in the middle, with a wall thickness of about 3-4mm plus the Teflon coating, so if you spin them to fast the rotors grow and the Teflon on the ends of the rotors wear off against the side of the body. I have been there done that 15,000 rpm on an 18RG motor. With the high boost if you have the SC14 on a 1300 cc motor it works Ok. But the higher the boost the harder the SC has to work and the less efficient it works, So it is a compromise. If the engine runs a half decent compression around 8 to 1 it will perform very well on low to mid range boost. I have a 4k that has 1ggte rods, forged Honda pistons in it, comp is at 8.5. It runs well on 7 psi, but needs 98oct fuel to stop it pinging I have just stripped the motor down to rebuild it into new shell and found it pinged to much as all the ring lands on the pistons are broken. But motor is 6 years old and driven very hard.

The higher the "K" number the closer to blue they will be see centreline in diagram

Have you had a look under the seat in a hiace or liteace van, as they have a remote filter and you may be able to adapt it to suit? Good luck, it's the first step in making the motor breath easier, and got just that little bit better.

ST141 stock struts, good if you with to fit MX73 rotors and S13 (slivia) calipers or BA falcon Rotors and R32 GTR (skyline) calipers

just a question? did you have the bracket installed that goes between these to points? I had mine fail as well and they told me it was because the bracket was not installed? I have since installed the said bracket and also put one on the side of the gearbox to the dump pipe. take the weight of the turbo off the manifold.

Clark rubber sell it by the meter, cost about $30, only thing is you have to join the ends some how or just but it together near the boot lock!

Hilux diesel alt or Mazda bravo/ Ford courier diesel, I will be running a vac pump from a imported 626 diesel motor which is separate from the alt but does the same job.

K60 is the casting number for KE70 81-83 model K50 five speed has bigger bearing in layshaft then KE30-55 model gearbox.

You could try a tarago diff YR22 model is a f series and they are 1410mm flange to flange there are a number of supra's and after market to pick from to get a LSD center. there is also the option of diff from AE panel van, manual diff is 3.9 ratio and is allready leaf spring mount if you need it. I have not see one myself, but I think they are S series.

:D :yes: Number plate light's see attach pdf, white wire with black strip = earth, green wire = power from tail light relay rear_loom.pdf

Just finished put a new alarm in my car, only got it three days ago and all ready had two offers on the car or wheels. Installed the alarm myself it is a Rhino multiple component unit separate siren and controller, Little bit of extra work few more wires to connect but it's cheap at $300. It also has immobiliser built in, I will be adding ultra sonic detects to pick up windows getting broken and a interior siren at 110 dB so if there do get in it will hurt the f@#% out of there ears, Had same set up on my old car with $3000 worth of DVD and Stereo in it and I only every had one door lock stuffed, they ran off after they hit the screw driver in and the alarm's shock sensor when off.