Twinky

If you can find a 5k that would be the best option. Visually it does not look any different to a 4k (not to the untrained eye) and it gives you a nice amount of torque. Any roadside defect station will not be able to pick up on it as it is identical to the 4k. BUT if they were to actually read the engine stamp you might not get away with it. But in saying that the motor does not even need engineering because it really does not make mutch more power than a 4k, just that it is more smooth in power delivery and driveability.

The facepalm is made up of facepalms relating to how I am now facepalming.

I have put the anti sieze in on the threads but not under the heads of the bolts, thought the oil under them would the sufficient. Yeah I was in a bit of a hurry to do it as I needed the car the next day. I haven't had the head skimmed but maybe when I get a quiet period I'll take it to a workshop and get it done. I'll see if I can source some pushrods localy first and if I come up short I'll give you a pm. I'll try to go slower next time :happy: maybe 10 hours? Cheers Alex

Head gasket replaced, exhaust section extended (4 2" radius welds), replaced thermo, fixed bent rod (2 hours for this one!)and engine re-tuned in the space of 7 hours.

Lots of work done recently! Changed the head gasket, new thermo, extended extractors, reset timing, reset air fuel idle mixture. All the time spent was worth it though, I now have a sweet running 5k! And now recently I have reclamed my parking spot from the missus. mmmmmm tools.......... Should be getting the charger plumbing done soon.

Well..... Twas a long day yesterday.... The part number for my new radiator cap is CA1390. Got home and the exact same thing happened, coolant pressurized, overflow full. So I thought stuff it, take the head off. So I began taking everything out and eventually got the head off and whilst I was doing it I noticed the 4 head bolts in the middle were not as tight as the outer ones. There was a little bit of coolant between cylinder 2&3 but I am unsure if that was just spilt coolant wheni lifted the head. Inspected the gasket and no blow outs, just seemed that the head was not tightened. When I did the HG last time I made sure that it was within torque spec so I know that it wasnt't that it was not done right. One thing that i did notice that when the 5 speed went in the motor angle changed and what had happed was that the exhaust was pressing up against the body of the car putting vertical pressure on the manifold and the head. So that could have been one of the factors but I am unsure. So I took a section of the extractor secondaries out and extended them so that they no longer fouled on the car body. Inserted my new thermo and then put the rest of the motor together. So the next morning I started the motor........ Only three cylinders were firing...... poped off the rocker cover, bent rod. The f@$ker hadn't seated properly and I had failed to check it properly. From a glance it looked fine but when you look down into the block it was sitting just off the rim on the lifters. So I spent the next two hours straightening it with a blowtorch, hard rubber hammer and a vice. Got it pretty spot on but I'm now on the hunt for a new set. I've had a bent rod straightened before and it has not given me issues since but just for safe measure I'll replace them especially since I will be going forced induction soon. So, now the motor runs sweet (reset timing to 10 deg at 800rpm, air/fuel mixture reset by fully closing it then opening it up till I get the max rpm and then backing it off slightly) and thankfully no more coolant filling up the overflow. It has been a very busy past two days but I am happy I have done it because now my motor is running better than it ever has. Time spent = 7 hours You definately learn something new every day!

Yeah I pump the hoses whenever i bleed it out, as well as filling up. I'll try running the car without the cap when I get home tonight. The first time I did see bubbles when I took the cap of whilst still hot. Will find out tonight hopefully.

I'll have to look at the part number when I get home. Had a different part number for sure, ended with something like 3009 or along the lines of that. It was a multi car fitting cap. How would you visually tell the difference between the two? My original cap looks almost identical to the original. Also the original cap did not let the coolant back into the engine (could be caused by the pressurisation problem). Even after the engine cooled there was pressure in the radiator. Which leads me to beleive it is the HG causing the problem.

Ok new radiator cap has been placed, thermostat will go in today along with a new head gasket. I need to take off the manifolds today anyway for two different jobs so I might as well take the head off while I'm at it. When I took off the old cap the spring compression seemed to be the same as the new unit so I don't think that was the issue, all seems to be pointing to the HG at the moment.

I call it a cooling issue because it is related to the cooling system. I think the money is on Philbey with this one. Saying that becasue the overflow isn't boiling hot and the temp guage shows normal. I call it a mod (no thermo)as it is in a non standard config, not that it has any benifits. I have actually already ordered one from sprints too. Was on the list of things to do that I didn't really bother with as it wasn't giving me any problems by not having it. With the head gasket could it be that the head was not tightened enough? When I tighten up the head I usually go for inbetween the max and min specs for torque settings. Should I take it to max if that is the problem? Anyhows I'll take the head off tonight and see if the head gasket has blown out. Iv'e added a head gasket to the order list for sprints. Some great info guys. Glad I started this topic as I hadn't ever thought about the head gasket causing the problem. On a related matter, the head gasket does not come with all the holes that are open on the block. Should I drill out the missing holes in the head gasket? Cheers!

I will start off. Model: KE55 Engine: 5k-c Standard cooling system from KE55-4k-c Modification: Thermo valve removed Heater core disconnected at pump outlets (short length of hose with bolt blocking outlet/inlet) Symptom: After about 15 mins of driving the coolant starts to fill up the overflow bottle. Coolant temps don't go past half way on the in-car meter. About 2 months ago when I fitted the 5k everything seemed fine, had the odd leak from pipes that were not tightened enough but all was fixed. I haven't had any issues untill recently when I pulled up at home after driving from work I could hear a bit of hissing and saw a bit of coolant splatter around the engine bay and saw that the overflow bottle was filling up. There was no other coolant leaking except for the overflow bottle. I could almost hear like a constant weak gurgling noise coming from the radiator. Basically the top portion of the radiator empties untill the top hose empties and then it stops filling the overflow bottle. You can then open the cap whilst the engine is hot and no coolant escapes. Possible issues: Could the radiator be blocked? Water pump nackered? When the 5k was installed along with a 5 speed it changed the motor angle by a couple of degrees, could that cause an issue? What should the height difference be between the top hose outlet of the radiator and the water pump inlet be? Should I re-connect the heater core to change the highest point in the cooling system? Pics up later when I get home. Any help would be great. Cheers

I thought I might start a thread to gather everyones issues and answers here so that information does not get fragmented. What I would like to happen is that anyone who gets a problem with their cooling system post it up here and hopefully it can get resolved. As a bonus various problems and solutions could be found by members easily.

I am hoping to get a hold of a sidedraft carb thus eliminating the need for all that plumbing. But yeah, I'll be able to swing the carby around 180 and have it facing the original direction if I run into problems. The level seems ok for now but I will have to check it when it is sitting in the engine bay to make sure. Cheers for the advice.

I only use Protec paints and have never had any trouble with them. I have even painted my rims with protec and it was good for over a year, still had it's gloss. I have since sold the car but I'm sure the paint is still fine. With the softness issue some paints require hardeners to set them off. But I have only had to do that with acrylic clear coat. The normal acrylic protec does not require a hardener. Setting up the gun can be difficult, but the stringy effect could be caused by three things. 1: not enough thinners, don't use normal thinners, use premium thinners. (second most likely) 2: Air temp could have been hot, therefore paint was already starting to dry. (least likely) 3: Air to paint ratio (most likely) It could also be all three at once causing that effect. I usually set up a mixture where I add thinners untill the paint is like water, I then dip in a metal rod and watch as the paint drips off and it should leave a see through coat of paint and drip off very quickly. It does take another coat or two in the long run when spraying but I have always had my best results doing it that way.

Inlet done! Just have to wait now for my welder to get this all done. No I just have to get the fuel lines done. Anyone recomend a place north of adelaide? I'll check out ENZED and see what they can do for me in the time being.

Finally had some spare time to work on the supercharger plumbing. Old motos do have some uses! I have only tack welded it together as a welder at my work is going to tig it for me :D Tomorrow I'll do the inlet!

Actually I think someone was selling a rear section of a 5 speed that would circumvent needing to relocate the shifter position.

The KE70 5 speed will fit but you are going to have to do the same adjustments. Relocate the shifter hole about 90mm back and drill holes in the 4 speed crossmember to fit the 5 speed mount.

& never changing the points again :D

I still run my ballast resistor with my electronic dizzy. It is not necessary to upgrade the coil. The ballast resistor is there to save the coil from destroying itself, limiting current draw and makes up for the voltage drop during startup. Most modern cars now have solid state ignition which is why they have different setups. You can get away without one in a 4 cylinder motor because the voltage drop is less severe and only require to get one or two cylinders fired up and the engine will start. So, in a nutshell: For a 6 volt coil, run the ballast (tighten up the connections on the resistor, the bolts holding the tabs themselves may be loose) For a 12 volt coil, do not run the resistor.

Blasphemy! Death by exhaust inhalation for this neessan infidel! :fuzz:

Yeah those 3 days were roughly 10 hour days. The engine is really easy to get out of the rolla, a handfull of hoses to disconnect, exhaust manifold, another handfull of electrical cables which just unplug (exceot for a couple of earthing cables). Throw the loom on top of the motor, while you are disconnecting everything at the same time the coolant is draining. Another 5 mins to unscrew the mounts & crossmember. The next part is somewhat of a cheat though as I take out the motor with the box and driveshafts still attached via dropping the motor rather than raising it. At this stage I had already taken the motor in and out about 5 times, so you get to know where everything is and what needs to be done first. Getting the motor back in is another story though.....

30 mins to get an exhaust back on to the mid headder connection, only because I forgot there was a nut still on one of the studs :glare: Couldn't see what I was doing because I was doing this past 9pm. 4k - 5k conversion, 1 hour. with many beer breakes. AE82 20v conversion, 3 freaking days because I swapped out an entire AE82 electrical system to an AE92 system. (motor had an AE92 Loom already hooked up, easier than cut and shut) AE82 clutch - 20 mins to get the motor and box out, one day to fit the god dam box back on because I had never done it before, didn't re align the shaft properly to the plate.

Sausages from yesterdays BBQ, a can of tuna, Apricot & coconut meusli bar, snack size tub of yogurt & an unlimited supply of coffee "twitches".

If it is the same alternator from the KE55 4K's there should be two wires connecting to the alternator. One wire connects to the body of the alternator and the other goes to a plug that sits on the back of it. If it is a 3 wire one I assume a second wire goes into the plug. To check out the connections you really should take the alternator out. It is a 10 minute job in and out so it pays to do it. To take it off, unplug the alternator (not from the back of the unit but from the intermediate plug in the pic) Unscrew the tensioner bolt and then the support bolt at the bottom of the unit. Drop the unit from the bottom of the engine bay or if you have the room lift it out. Inspect the connections and make sure that they are not corroded or too loose. If they are all fine you should unscrew the regulator (two small phillips head screws), check the alternator brushes and make sure they have plenty of meat left on them (They should not look short, shouldn't protrude about 1cm) They should be over the 1cm mark (roughly). BEFORE you do all this you should check that the alternator is charging the battery, get a multimeter and while the car is running (with no jumper battery attached) check the voltage at the battery, it should be 14v. If it is significantly less like 12v then the battery is not being charged. If the battery is showing 14v (approx) then turn off the car after about 10 minutes running time and disconnect the terminal leads. Check the battery voltage again after 10 minutes of sitting there and if the voltage is significantly low (ie, 10 - 11 volts) then the battery is not holding it's charge. If the battery is in fact holding the charge then you have a short somewhere in the system that is draining the battery. So it could be three things: Alternator Battery Short If you are a bit unsure how to check what I just wrote I can write it up with a bit more detail.