Super Jamie

some of the quickest and best built cars i've seen have used a 2L coke bottle as a radiator overflow, because it's actually really hard to find a cheap, large capacity overflow bottle with a cap that you can put a hose into in 30 seconds, and store pretty much anywhere in your engine bay with the use of cable ties. it looks budget though and is cause to take the piss the proper name for a "catch can" is an oil/air separator. this should tell you what it does. personally i think any catch can is a waste of time unless you have manifold vacuum sucking on it, so it's essentially a filter for the pcv hose. alot of installations have just the can and a hose from the intake crossing the engine bay, often accompanied by lots of braided hose and anodised fittings. this is rice

someone give ken streeter a call and read him this post, he loves groaners. nikki and i used to email each other "ken jokes" all the time, to see who could make him laugh the most :D

this was one of the few webpages i paid attention to when looking for ideas on how to break in my motor, the street driving section is good advice doing full throttle runs from low rpm to mid-high rpm (not redline) is a great way to get your rings to suck out and wear properly against the bores. people reckon something like 90% of your ring sealing is going to be done in the first couple of hundred km after building a motor, the rest will slowly happen over the next few thousand oil surface bushings such as your crank, rod and cam bearings will be worn in within the first half hour another good tip i got is to temperature cycle the motor, gradually building up time. run it for 10 minutes, let it cool down totally. run it for 20 minutes, let it cool down totally, run it for 30 minutes, let it cool down totally. and so on. an engine doesn't really wear when it's cold (20C) and it doesn't really wear when it's hot (90C), it wears when it's in its warmup period (30C to 80C) oil is also important. i ran pennzoil running in oil for the first few hundred km, which has alot of graphite content in it, which helps lubricate the tight metal parts as they rub in against each other. after that, i changed to a straight weight (30w) mineral oil for the next few thousand km, and i renewed it twice. one day, the motor just had a HEAP more power, everything had finally bedded in and it was run in. then i swapped to a 5w synthetic, but didn't like the tappet noise, so changed to a thicker 15w. at every change, i used a new genuine filter before your first start, wind the engine over with no spark to get oil pressure up. you'll probably flatten a battery or two to do this, that's normal. for the first time (and first time ONLY) warm the engine up to operating temperature without driving it, as you warm it up, hold and cycle the revs. 2 minutes at 2000rpm, 2 minutes at 2500rpm, 2 minutes at 3000rpm. continue this to half your redline. then let it cool down totally never leave any engine (even an old one) sitting more than a few minutes to warm up, drive it, even if it's just around the block. the oil circulation will help the engine warm up evenly with more uniform heat dispersal, and it will wear alot less as it settles up to operating temperature. it also gives the engine more oil pressure than idling, and that's a good thing i gradually increased my rev ceiling. 6000rpm on the first day, 7000rpm on the second day, 8000rpm on the third day, and by that point it was time to get rid of the running in oil. probably not good to rev an engine hard on running in oil, it's pretty thin and doesn't lubricate bearing surfaces so well under such extreme conditions if you have a running fuel supply (such as a stock carburettor) leave it stock until the engine is run in. there's no point upgrading and tuning something on a motor whose conditions are still constantly changing. nor is there much point cranking a fresh motor needlessly whilst you get a beginning idle worked out i don't really believe in running an engine in on the dyno. acutally i think dynos are a good way to f@$k engines because most of them (or more accurately, the operators) don't load the driveline properly, and instead of being a good torque ability simulation, they end up being halfway between normal driving and free-revving. would you sit on your driveway and slowly freerev your engine to its redline? thought not lastly, you're not going to run an engine in overnight. most of it happens within 500km, the rest takes at least a few thousand. mine took over 6 NOW this is all good and well for an old 4k, these are high ring tension motors with old designs. a new car engine is totally different, they have very low tension rings and realistically aren't designed to last more than a couple of hundred thousand km. not like a corolla which you can do half a million clicks in and it still runs every day without fail. most new cars have already done a full power run in the factory on their dyno (to test the engine isn't a lemon), and been driven on and off a car trailer and around a dealership for at least a few km. so babying it isn't going to do anything helpful if i bought a brand new car, i'd drive it out the dealership, warm it up around town, get out to a long stretch of road and leave it in 3rd or 4th and bury my foot till i'm doing well over 100km/h (yeah yeah breakin the law). then just drive it like you would any other car the old mechanic who told me what i expressed above about dynos used to have a good saying for how he treats his engines - "you wreck em if you drive lightly, and you wreck em if you flog em. so i just lightly flog em" :D your opinion may vary, but that's what i've ascertained from reading alot of peoples' running in stories, and talking to alot of people who do it all the time

you have lsd, me jealous. dunno about the 80s plastic front end conversion though, what on earth inspired you to do that?

AHH cos i was thinking of how the rails looked on those velos and how i'd bolt my bottom mount seat :D one of the guys on oldrollas is running stratos recliners in his 25 with good results too. seems i'm going to have to pony up a few hundred at least to get a good seat, or two

if you put a camshaft in your motor bigger than 260 degrees with the stock exhaust manifold, you will get inlet reversion and will need to put extractors on just on its own, it's proably making a bit more power and will sound nicer, if you have a full 1.5" to 2" exhaust it'll make a few more horsepower, but it's going to throw you back in your seat or anything

wow, that's an interesting cam profile, it's very similar to a sprinter cam it's pretty much the best cam you can put in a 3k. it will give you lots of torque in a 4k/5k, and peak power at 6500rpm, instead of a little less torque but a bit more power and peaking at 7500rpm like mine or teddy's cam would. our cams open and close about 5 degrees later your cam could have about 050 more lift, but at least you can use that cam with stock valve springs no worries it's very nice to see a camshaft in a K motor which isn't stupidly large and a waste of time and petrol. i've often contemplated putting a cam with specs almost identical to yours in my motor, to pick up the torque down low, which is what makes a street car quick overall it's a very good cam which will make your car nice and torquey to drive, without having to rev the tits off it to make its peak power, your guy at kelford sure knows what he's talking about, good stuff! :dance: :D

rare? are you serious? i can get k-to-t bellhousings, on request, for about nz$100 last time i looked into it you need to stand a K motor up if you use a T50, because the engine is slanted and K gearboxes are designed like that too, T gearboxes aren't. you then need to change your manifolding and oil pickup point and it's way too much hassle and expense unless you can machine components yourself conversion components in nz do a k-to-w bellhousing, though what kind of K motor needs a supra gearbox i don't know, and apparently their casting is pretty crap quality

no they're rubbish, get a diesel gemini motor oh, hold on a minute... http://www.google.com

it's not so much the crossmember you need to worry about, but the fact that all the earlier crossmembers are narrower than ke70 crossmembers, so your steering geometry is all messed up. you really need a shorter rack, i'd be looking at other small cars, such as aw11 mentioned above whilst jonny did put r&p in his old ke38 wagon, he did it by cutting forged suspension components and welding them back together, which is both dangerous and illegal. you'd be an idiot to do it that way

it's an r31 pintara with a 3k in it :D that's wierd

a 5k head look up dished piston combustion chambers

YAY YOU'RE OLD ENOUGH TO BUY the ALCOMOHOL :D go out and get mished, it would be unaustralian not to! :D i have no idea what this has to do with jim beam, but it's the first thing that comes up when you google images for it. she wishes you happy birthday too :tup:

go into repco or autobarn or supercheap, buy a gregories or haynes for a KM hiace van

wow, that's actually um, not bad, not bad at all :D it integrates nicely with the factory stuff but you can tell it's aftermarket, it doesn't seem too over the top. what's it look like from the front?

go to tafe and do an auto body refinishing course, you'll learn to weld and paint properly, and you'll have access to a good mig and spraybooth, and maybe the class can use your car as a project :D

go to an auto electrician

the dime quarterly (a datsun site) has a good tutorial on installing an aftermarket ignitor, google, or it might be linked from my faq. however all the ones i've seen have letters as their terminals. no idea :D

now it is your mission to use it to drive a supercharger :D

so, like, um... where is it?

hey old mate, allow me to be the first to say happy birthday to you, you're now officially 25 and can get cheap(er) insurance and be considered more of an "adult", ya old fart :D

lol, i like your sense of humor :D

put an end to unfinished sentences right now or we-

man why don't any of you f@$kers get banned for rousing on the toymods kiddies :D

the best fake bov i've seen is in proton satrias, the aircon system has a pressure release. so if you have the aircon on, and drive and shift a certain way whilst turning the aircon off, the car goes PSSSCCCHHHHTTTT. lame :D