Taz_Rx

Good luck finding something that will fit though! If you don't want a boot full of fuel setup (surge tank etc) then just mount it all under the car. I just gave a '30/'55 tank away last weekend GTS-T. :cool:

You should need to use a screw driver on the oil pump drive slot. Just get the timing right (ie dizzy NOT 180* out) and it'll sit up about 5mm as this slot isn't alligned. Then just turn the motor over (although this is a problem at the moment) and the dizzy shaft will turn but not the oil pump. Then when it does line up it'll drop in and that 5mm gap will be gone. :cool: I just find this way easier than trying to get it in the right spot with the dizzy out.

If you're already removing the fuel line then if I were you I just remove the whole tank (4x bolts) to clean it!! Just re-fit the bug, add a litre, shake the tank, drain and repeat. Thats how I found that roofing nail! :cool:

Either: Run an intank EFI pump or swap to an AE86 tank with pump installed as mentioned. OR Use normal carby tank, lift pump, surge tank and the VL main pump.

Same price I sold it to you?

Pretty much all toyotas have the same spline for the boss kit, so if it fits on its right. :cool:

No not rebuilt. Just an internally stock 5k with the D-dish pistons and a 3kbp head to drop te CR. Click "Tar" in my sig for the that project thread. :cool: ......It is an EFI K btw.

lolz. 10-12 psi should be fine on a daily driven, stock internal 4k. And then you could still punch it up to 15-16psi for say a trip to the local drag strip. I've boosted then to over 20psi (now have proof of this with my ECU data logger - 22.5psi) and never even busted a ring land..... yet! Its all really in the tune. Make sure its got adequate fuel and make sure the timing is right. :) Obviously my opinion on this is a little biased but I think that this is one of the major misconception on this forum. a 100kw 4AGE has that power AT THE FLYWHEEL. So by the time you get it to the wheels you're looking at around 50-70rwkw, and there's members rides threads here that will show you this. Now compare that to say philbeys 5k with dual webers etc....... he made around 59rwkw IIRC. So around about the same power as a 4AGE from a thats from an NA K SERIES. I make a very confortable 100rwkw on about 10psi and I'm still using stock internals. Wind the boost up a bit more as has Madrolla68 and you're looking at anywhere up to 160rwkw (19.5psi)....... which frankly is power that any mild 4agte owner should be happy with!!! :yes:

He technically already has a BDA Tom!!! :yes: ....not exactly the engine most would refer to as a BDA, but yeah it still is! BDA :)

Yeah no rush mate. Mines still running on my car and I don't have any EFI bits for it yet.

Some EFI pumps (VL ones included) also can't suck very well. The can push at 100 odd psi, but struggle to suck fuel UP from the tank.

as far as the engine goes..... try here :)

The L series boxes in KM's have the same bellhousing bolt pattern as W40 and W50. Check the FAQ Mark. I did a write up on a K-W50 there. :)

....The sea monkey's stole my money!

Fairo, just don't expect too much out of it until you can get it breathing properly.

:y: Fusion I'll always be the first to agree they're rare as rocking horse shit....... wheather you pay the rare price or not is another thing (I'm guessing your talking about my $20 BH). Charl there's a heap of info in the FAQ about K-T's. But yeah be aware they're hard to find. K50 will do the job behind a mild engine anyway. I think maybe you should get yourself a Haines manual (if you don't already have one) and read through the whole re-build section a couple of times. After doing that if you don't think that you're up to the task, then start looking for somebody to build your engine for you. :y: Correct Its wouldn't be a bad idea at all. Also tell your cam grinder what you plan on doing to the head. Then everybody is on the same page.

He PM'd me this yesterday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcNxDG98W_M Draw-through weber setup. .....oh and couldn't agree more on the wheels! :y:

Got any engine bay piccies?

If you're going to re-build it yourself, why not also do the porting? You can get BP templates off ebay these days pretty cheap. You will have to get a machine shop to cut the bridge for you but you could still do the porting bit. And are you planning on using that nikki on the BP? Casue its really not suitable. Just get yourslef an IDA or even better IDA style injection. ....or give me $800 for my IDA (already jetted for big BP) and I'll go injection!!! :y:

fyi - that thermo is only going to be running at about 50% efficiency because of the way you've mounted it. you need to have the shroud up against the rad core otherwise it'll just suck in air between the shroud and core.

Those conelocks are good...... but they can chew out your studs/bolts pretty quick if you remove then often. I used to have a bit of trouble with nuts coming loose on the 4ktc stuff, espeacially the J-pipe>mani bolts so I replaced them with cone lockers. They served their purpose well, but because I would remove them every 3 months or so I very quickly f@$ked the studs/bolts they went on. Ended up chucking the conelockers and getting normal nuts and split washers and started using medium strength lock tight instead. This was after replacing every stud/nut that had a 'conelock loved' thread. If they only get removed like once a year you might be right, but atleast you know now. :) :y: Just noticed I made a sig quote!!! :y:

First, from what you have written above its pretty obvious that you have used the search function quite a bit to obtain your info. For that reason nobody will have a good at you and say "search for it". If they do I'll delete the post! :y: Ok, Honing is basically just light machining of the cylinder bore (empty block) before refitting pistons with some new rings. Its just like re-facing a head to make sure its flat when replacing a head gasket. If say there was something wrong with a piston or ring and it scored the bore considerable you would then need to re-bore the block and fit oversized pistons. Cams - Lumpy idles normally mean big cams, .....and big RPM. This is were you need to balance practicallity with "wank factor" a bit. Have a quick look here.... http://www.camtechcams.com.au/toy_4cyl_3k4k.html If you get something like 608 at the bottom then you will most deffinately have a lumpy idle, but you'll have to wring its neck to make any power. Combine that with the fact you need to do a few other supporting mods (like upping the comp ratio)I don't think this would be the best choice for any daily driven car. On the other hand if you got something like the 639 or 621 then you'll still have a bit of a lump at idle, but much better low and mid range drivability. You'll also not have to do as many other mods to make the cam work the best. IE for these cams you don't need increased compression. As far as the head goes I think you might just be better off getting a pro to do it for you. Anybody can port a head...... but not everybody can do a good job of it. Its an art into itself. Just get your head reconditioned somewhere and just ask them to clean up the castings a bit and give it a bit of a polish.

Yeah good point. HP is deffinately not everything. :y: Last time I went to the drags I had the same dial in time as a brand new SS commo ute. He had what?...250+KW, I had 100KW....... But he had 1.5+ tonne, I was under a tonne. :y:

Less loading on water pump, alternator and crank pulleys. Search for gilmer belt in the wanted section for a better explanation in a thread for about a month ago. I also mentioned the real reason why I bought mine. Charl - That price isn't too bad (but is it in AUD or USD?). Saying that though there would be a bit of work in modding it to fit. The crank pulley one would be the hardest. That youtube vid is of Brodies (reTRD) KP. He organised the group buy in NZ and I just distrobuted them in Aus. Here's my kit....

:y: its a small indoor one, not a big nitro one so it won't carry ANY weight. Its one of these Esky's....