Taz_Rx

EVERYTHING you need to know about the fuel setup is here... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=17418#

+1 pending voltage - Though you may be able to set this somehow in the Jaycar kit. Or does it list a voltage range to use? This is brand new and cheap.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/KIA-RIO-MAP-SENSOR_...=item45eeb498ae :lolcry:

I remember reading a post by Blown to do this, just taper the corners of the ex ports.

IMHO Bosch plugs are shit no matter where they're made. NGK FTW always! :lolcry:

...and you'd only get that after actually braking when the motor has to put vacuum back into the booster. The vacuum advance only pulls about 6* of timing depending on exactly what dizzy it is, so its not hard to do without it.

Yeah no dramas at all. If the cup come out then just remove the plug from it, screw in new plug, then screw the lot back in. :lolcry:

Looked hard then didn't you!? :lolcry: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...alve_Clearances

Did you make sure the rod that runs through the extension housing was locating properly at the front (of the car) end?

Mmmm tobacco stained sunvisers. Just vinyl spray them!

Good work :) , yeah used one of those pads stripping back a shell before. They're a bit less abrasive than a wire wheel and can wear out a bit quicker too. So maybe use the wire wheel just to knock the major lumps off the deadener then start using your 3M pad. You'll wear the pad out too quick otherwise. :D

Twincharge 5k hey!? :) The thought has crossed my mind before as well...... hence the gilmer belt drive. Would love a big arse laggy turbo (for a K) like a GT2860R and then use an SC14 to get it going. Would have a switch connected to the clutch as well so I could turn it off. Would probably also run that through an ECU auxilary to switch it off at a certain RPM or boost pressure when the turbos has spooled up. How are you going to set your up? With a bypass valve?

Good luck sanding the sound deadening, that would be an absolute bitch of a job. If you want to remove it all and start again then get yourself a wire brush wheel that you can put in a drill from bunnings etc, cost like $5 each so get 3 or 4 to do the whole lot. You'll be amazed at how quick you'll carve through it. :) Also read the can as to weather you should prime the bare metal first. You should be using etch primer for anything bare metal anyway.

Congrats mate, stock up on sleep now before they come home!! :D Get some pics up so everybody can go "Awwww, how cute". :)

Good work Todd. I knewn you build another turbo K soon enough! :)

RainWarriorDregs - This is for a sidedraft weber not downdraft, bit different. :) Have a look at this thread... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=19073# You can see in the pic that Mark has taken a small vacuum line tapped of the main brake boost vacuum line.

+1 no syncros there. They look like this (brass bit).....

Now thats just tight arse to the point of dangerous. :D Go on ausrotary.com to find a set of wheels as ke1X-2X have the same stud pattern as old school mazdas. Edit: actually I think this thread has served its purpose. You're only going to get flamed if I leave it open. :)

:) :D It is still a 4k mate. My 5k will only spool and wheelspin in first in the dry or second in the wet with around 15psi..... but thats with semi-slick tyres. Oh, I'd better go read your PM chin, forgot about that. :y:

Well in advance. :) My wolf's reference is set at 60*BTDC - and the ECU knows this. It can then advance the timing up to 60*.

Added your track times silverra23. I've taken off the placing numbers as it didn't really seem applicable with only a max of 2x times at some tracks, and grouped them by members. If we ever get enough times for certain tracks them I'll group them by tracks with placings again.

NGK bp5ey As for plug leads, I've just bought the boxes of Bosch Super Sport plug leads as a full set (4x plug leads and coil lead) from Supercheap for around $25. I'm not a huge SCA fan but have no problem buying brand stuff like bosch off them for 60-80% of autobarn prices. :) Unless its a highly worked motor I wouldn't worry about 8-10mm leads.

Did you ask them if they can sell you 3x more of the 1x type of bolt you have?

Ah, also worth mentioning what weldies do to gearboxes.... which is put a lot of back-strain on them. I farked a couple. How many have you busted along with your 5 diffs Todd?

Depends how much you can do yourself really. If not probably around $1k once you've bought the diff, had mounts cut off and new ones welded on, new bearings etc.

I did notice that to ".......wouldn't fit on the back seat of a Holden Commondore seat". Do they not have proof readers!?