Taz_Rx

Well done guys. Awesome results. Gotta be one of the most stout na k's on the site. Bank details are in your inbox ;) As I said on the phone Stu, you shouldn't at least need to mow your own lawns for the next couple of years.... :poke: Thomas lol

Headlights are normally pull to ground, so you should have permanent power at the globe plugs. Turning them on grounds the connection.

The dizzy side copper pipe us going into the pump not the thermostat housing, so that is a return. The feed is from the back of the head. When you slide the lever from cold to hot 2 things happen. 1 the tap opens, and 2 there's a flap in behind the vents above the controls that closes. If this isn't closing it won't divert the air flow through the core and give you any heat.

1.5 would probably do. The outlet of the manifold probably wouldn't be any bigger.

So I was bored...and interested myself: 5k, stock bore, 33cc (4k) head, 6cc piston, 1mm gasket thickness = 9.4:1

Ohh forgot to say if you already have a 4k head to use maybe crunch the numbers for 6cc O dish and see what you come up with. From memory I've got a few volumes etc in my projects thread a few pages back when I was doing the fore mentioned head shave. Just checked for you, stock 4k head was 33cc, then 23cc post shave.

Mine has 22cc D's. When I first put it together I had a pretty well stock 4k head on it, c/r worked out at a touch over 7:1....which was far too low really. It did drive fine on boost. 100 thou shave later and c/r was up to 8.5:1, bit better off boost drivability and economy. Ideally I'd like to go higher again but that head is pretty much shaved to its limit now. Only option is to start again with a 3k head. I would highly suggest you learn from my mistakes/experience and go 3k head (not 3kbp cause the stem seals are shit) not 4k and aim for at least 9:1, hell even the original c/r which iirc is 9.5:1. That way being a daily you're still going to retain good off boost drivability and fuel economy, make good power and probably spool slightly quicker. It'll just come down to full noise timing. I run about 28° @ 16 psi...which is rather high for a turbo engine, most skyline's etc would run around 11°. To me realistically this says that my c/r probably is too low! I'm going to have to start charging a consultancy fee soon! Lol ;)

The tap in 30's and 55's is in the cab. Stick your head in the passenger side foot well and have a look were the copper pipes come through the fire wall. The rod of heater controls clips into the tap, make sure its still connected. Its possible a passenger might of accidentally kicked the control wire out of the clip.

If you want a water temp one then wouldn't the best place be as low in the system as possible? That way it can dump the majority of fluid but you'll still have a submerged sensor for an accurate reading.

Did you get over 9° today?

Square or round? If round its probably the charcoal canister

Tried Toyota?

What are you trying to achieve with the head swap? Are you aware what it will do to your compression ratio?

Unfortunately aw11's weren't developed with a homologation budget!

Forget Ebay, just head down to your local wheel and tyre shop, they'll no doubt have what you're looking for for $2-4 each. You're also guaranteed to get the right thread too.

Sorry....just answered my own question by reading a few posts up.

Hey Shaun, what discs are they that you've used with the wilwood calipers? Are they drilled and slotted 30/55 dba's?

Yeah they're not overpriced because people HAPPILY PAY in excess of $20k for good examples. Rx4's haven't really reached the price of 2's and 3's, r100's on the other hand get $10k+ for just a genuine shell! It all also depends on what exact model you're talking about, hell you can pay up to $5k for just a set of genuine rx3 Savanna tail lights!

Maybe not as its been relisted at the same price. On a phone they look like they're in perfect condition but still not worth 2k Aus let alone us.

Maybe try and bypass it then

Is it an internal or external igniter dizzy?

Did you have all of the plugs out and at w.o.t. when you did the comp test?

Exactly....something is only worth what someone is willing to pay. If would be more interesting to see a comparison of sold prices.

Ah ok, the aeroflow should be pretty good then. Malpassi's can get a bit noisy when under vacuum at times, mine sometimes sounds very similar to your noise. Maybe just try removing the vac line to the ref and see if it makes any difference.

What sort of fuel pressure reg are you running?