Taz_Rx

Hey mate, I'll have a look at the wire colours on mine for you. I'll cut the plug off and send that to you too. ;)

Its right next to the post whore one! :P

Nah I don't have a part number. I bought my o/s pistons through the guys who bored the block. Asked them for chrome moly rings to suit and that's what I got. Didn't think to note the p/n sorry.

You can look it it 2 ways... Yeah I made something available for all you guys that bought one.... And you all made the gaskets I wanted cheaper! ;) Happy to help.

Why 2 pumps? 100gph from 1 is more than enough. I've got a Holley red (70 odd gph) and that's fine for my 13b bridgey with a 48 ida.

I'm normally very much a diy type of guy who likes to do something different - you only need to look in my engine bay to see that. In this case though I just think I'm going to get a much better proven package and better bang for buck than if I were to try and build something myself. I really want to start using the car for some club days, hill climbs etc so would also like some tune ability in the package.

So quick update on my progress with this. Ajps and t3 are now out the window lol. After a bit more research and a couple of phone calls I'm now tossing up between BC and HSD. I found I can in fact get either in fronts only. BC's - The guy on the phone at just jap was really helpful and accommodating. For BR series with spindles I'm looking at $850. I can't get them without camber tops a bit cheaper but he said he could swap them out for any other tip I ask for. Mention the old 'file one hole to make s13 tops fit' and he said it wouldn't be a problem to swap the ae86 ones out for s13. Freight is included in the price. BC also have replace shocks readily available as well as different rate replacement springs for $80. HSD - old mate at otomoto answered my questions but was far less enthusiastic and helpful than just Jap. Price for a front only set of mono's would be $750 + $59 iirc for freight. A set of RCA's is also included in the price. I can't swap out the camber tops for s13 with them but I can get universal blanks instead. The HSD tops don't look quite as nice (as in amount of adjustment as well as cosmetic) as the BC's though. They don't have replacement shocks listed on the website and new springs are $100. I'm also not a huge fan of the fact the damper adjuster hands off a tube on the bottom of the strut rather than in the top like the BC's. So yeah, the HSD's are cheaper inc freight, there's also the added saving that RCA's are included. I don't want to base my decision on price only though. Would love some opinions/criticism/praise on either?

I very nearly bought a full alloy one of Ebay.... http://m.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=vn+full+alloy+radiator&isNewKw=1&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&_trksid=undefined.TR0.TRC0.Xvn+full+alloy+radiator&sqp=vn+full+alloy+radiator ...but was a little dubious on Chinese weld quality and sort of needed one asap, so went to repco as I knew they'd have one in stock. Have a look at one of the Ebay adds and you'll see the locating lugs I'm talking about.

Piece of piss really. I have mine a bit offset to the drivers side as the cooler pipes run past the passenger side of it. If you had it centred then its just a matter of drilling a couple of 10mm holes in the brackets that hold the front control arms for the locating lugs in the bottom of each end tank. I then just made up a couple of simply brackets that screw onto the top bolt holes for the stock fan shroud and screw into the top radiator support. You could find some pics a few pages back. I've always intended to redo it a but nicer but its half one of those 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' sort of things. Some grommets in the holes for the lower lugs wouldn't be a bad idea too. The stock upper mounts are plastic lugs that stick out of each side of the end tanks about 100mm from the top. The way mine is mounted I can remove the radiator in under 5 minutes. Make sure you get one with a cap as I think the earlier ones don't have one, you can use the original k cap. Can use an original passenger side hose, but the top/drivers side one is just too short. The one I have now is a generic flexi hose I got from a rubber/hose supplier for about $60.

Finally took a couple of pics on the weekend after giving her a wash. Only real visible differences are the chrome bars.... I'll get some pics of the bent radiator soon too

Have done a bit of research into the base height adjustables. The powered by max and BC kits look good, biggest problem with either is the fact they come in a full kit of front and rears. Being for the 55 I just don't need the rear ones. Suppose I could get the whole kit and them sell off the rear stuff. Getting ae86 stuff would also mean I need different camber tops...and steering arms...and hubs...and brakes lol. Price wise the cheaper BC kits are cheaper than the bilstien fitted ajps front only struts! I haven't been able to find much info yet on the different series of BC's yet though. Any body got any info in that respect?

....and that would be why most pre-fab coilovers have stub axle bracing...

I'm sure you'd be onto it but you didn't make the same mistake with coil output wiring did you?

Did you write the injectors 1 to 1, 2 to 2 etc, rather than firing order? When I wired mine up I was all soldered ready for heat shrink and then realised what I had done lol. Wouldn't have been to big of a deal since I'm currently running banked injection but didn't want to have to rewire when I finally got around to running sequential. In your case even if it was wired wrong you'd think it would still get fuel to all four when just idling, just a bit out of phase. Weird it doesn't run at all now. Does it have common power to all four?

To be honest I don't completely understand the difference in base height adjustable vs coilover. Can you post a pic of base height?

I'd potentially go straight to that big daddy setup when installing the struts...funds pending. What are you suggesting ra or xt? Just got a reply from Gabe, freight to Hobart for struts is us $202

So tax return its in lol.... Seriously looking into converting to ae86 struts in the 55. I actually have a hsd kit in the shed for 55 struts but the old issue of shock choice is one problem, then brake upgrades is the other. I love the look of the new 'big daddy' t3 Wilwood kit (now has vented rotors for anybody who hasn't looked in a while). So thinking 86 is probably the way to go. The 2 kits I'd like opinions/experience on is the pre-fab ajps and t3 kits. For the sake of an accurate comparison both are available with kyb agx shocks, so I'll work with those prices. Ajps are $1390, plus I don't have exchange struts so I'm up for another $245. then again for the sake of a fair comparison the t3 kits have stub axle bracing, ajps charge $70 a pair for this.... So all up we're talking $1705 plus freight. On the other hand the t3 kit is us$795, so with todays exchange rate au$1084. Rather than a surcharge for not supplying exchange struts, they offer $100 store credit if you can, which us good for an internation customer. I realise freight from the us is going to be a bit more than from Adelaide, maybe $200...(I'll find out exactly how much) but that still makes then around $500 cheaper than the ajps option. From a customer service point of view I've read good things about both Dave and Gabe. Thoughts? Please also remember this is the pre-fab t3 struts I'm talking about, not the bolt on Coilover sleeve kit everybody bags out.

Nice work as always Matt. If there's any upside to these sort of issues its the fact you never stop learning something new.

just try the old hold the key on start (or get someone else to) and give the starter a whack. I've just got mine back on the road after 6 months and the starter did this.....didn't even click actually. got the 6 year old to hold the key while I tapped the starter, hasn't been a problem now its free'd up. Did you run a nice big fat power cable to your starter (and alternator) with the battery relocation?

They're always noisy if solid mounted somewhere to the body. Try some bushes as mentioned above maybe. If you want a near dead quiet pump get you're self a Carter green etc. they have really good mounting brackets which make them quiet as.

I did think that to start but I don't know how you'd have any room for an intake manifold with that turbo position.

What motor was in the 30? Jz?

Some relays will feed power out of the 87 and 87a positioned terminals, handy to use for things like headlight feeds. Couldn't tell you what brand etc to look for though. I'm sure a guy somewhere like ashdown Ingram could tell you. Probably wouldn't hurt if you just crimped both into one plug on a normal relay though.

So probably about time I updated this... So 6 months on from hitting the roo I finally got it back on the road early this week. Ended up wrecking the old n/a shitter "dirt" for its stone tray and the cut I needed for the front. Have a whole cars worth of parts if anybody needs anything. The stone tray/valance was actually 2 half straight ones cut and screwed together so I'll still keep my eye out for a nice one. Was lucky enough to find both front and rear nos Ke30 full chrome bumpers...and cheap too. Got myself another brand new vn radiator from repco...$130. I can't believe how much the last one bent, twisted and warped without springing a leak. I'll upload some pics soon, might give it a wash first. Looks the same other than bumpers.