Taz_Rx

Check this out if you're an AR.com member..... http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&am...a&hilit=rs5 Thats how things can go bad real quick!! :dance:

Mitsubishi make a few electrical components that find there way into mazdas toyotas etc from factory.....although I highly doubt leaf springs would be the same case! I reckon Philbey's on the money! :dance:

You don't need to appologise Brodie, this sort of thing is just expected with group buys really. I was one of many buyer in the great "Ausrotary Lenso RS5 group buy". We all paid deposits, and then waited nearly 4 months to find out that the wheel shop in Sydney never placed the order for 40 sets of wheels with the lenso factory!!! :dance: The poor guy who was organising the group buy then had to re-fund 40 disgruntled buyers!!

:y: :hmm: :hmm: So I can expect to see them early next week? As is that "re" re my head studs!? MMM shiny bits!! :dance:

Is that Reader or a Stringer?

K40 = 1.7l K50 = 2.45l :D

:wink: Once you learn the importance of a decent earth, you won't forget it in a hurry. Electrical current (and sufficient sized wiring and earthing) is just like putting a set of side draft webers and a ported head on a motor with a stock exhaust manifold. There's no point in having a 'big mouth' - (fat wire etc) if you don't have a sufficently sized sphincter!!!! :D Speaking of which, how many earth straps do you have on the motor? at least 2?

Hey all, This is something I mentioned in a for sale thread last week, thought I'd take a couple of pics for those that want to see. Basically, all K motors have the same size exhaust ports except for a 7ke. 7kc still is still the same size as 3/4/5k's. Below is a couple of pics of a 7ke manifold gasket up against a 3k big port head. And for anybody who didn't know 7ke's also have bigger oval shaped inlet ports. If you round out the holes they're then the size of a 3kbp. size for the average pics, they're off my phone. Cheers, Si.

:wink: :D

I'll give you one tomorrow and explain how they work. :)

won't hear me say this very often :yes: ......but a 4AGE would probably be a better option. Easier to fit (with RWD variant parts) and a better motor anyway. ......then you're just another white dot in a green paddock!! :)

Nope, you'll just have to run one wire. Run it off a relay from the battery though, otherwise you blow the fuse were you've patched it in. :)

The little "regulator" drops the 12v power down to 10v for the guages. Have no idea why toyota didn't just somehow make 12v guages!! :yes: My car does it too, but not effected by the lights. Whenever I have less than about 1/4 of a tank of fuel, the fuel guage doesn't work.....and hence neither does the temp. As mentioned its no big deal and you'll learn to live with it. :) As for your hesatation while driving with the choke on, its simply over fueling. Have you actually tried pushing the choke back in when its doing this? And yes, you're on the right track with the idle speed screw. have a try at adjusting it with a screw driver.

Correct - 4x110, same as old school mazdas. Also do some research into older peugeot wheels as they apparently also fit. :)

14 years would be pretty average for a K. :yes: as for the dipstick - One of my cars was doing this, fixed it with a little bit of leccy tape around the rubber on the end of the stick!! :lol: As Trev said though, this is only the tip of the iceburg. Fix your blow-by problem and the other to issues shouldn't be issues any longer!! :)

Nice rig mate. They're just the very late ke55e CS bumpers, nothing really "speacial edition" about them. :) The engine bay as neat as the rest of it??

I got that kit up and running for $400 originally. That was pretty "agricultural" though.

Ah shit sorry buddy, I sussed out the day I wrote that and forgot to reply to you. The dude who owned the car ended up selling the front cross member/struts/steering rack in one piece. The rod you need was still attached to the steering rack. HOWEVER - Might be worth you PM'ing Toy-yoda and ask him if he'll sell you the one out of "Orb" which I think he is now wrecking. :P

2, sure sounds like it. If you're taking the box off, maybe get a new TOB as well as a pilot/spiggot bearing (the one in the end of the crank). 3, I would woirry too much just yet, did you find the condensation after you had it running? Might have just been some moisture in the motor from sitting and you just boiled it out!!!!! :jamie: Clean out the mayo, and just keep an eye on it for the next week. Worse case scenario we can get a new HG in for less than $100!!! :P

I only asked as drum and caliper paint has a higher heat tolerance for the heat generated by the friction of braking. If you use regular "engine enamel" it'll get hot, crack and flake off. :P

SC14 and yes its off a 1ggze :P

Check out the dish too!!!! Here's an interview with Mad Mike too..... http://3news.co.nz/Video/Sports/tabid/317/...ault.aspx#video

Bonnet, door, boot, glovebox......there's a few hinges in every car mate, think we need some more info. :P

If I where you I'd just made some little adapter brackets that screw to the rad support panel and then have the adjuster screw bolt into it, rather than going to the trouble of trying to weld something in. If you haven't done anything about it befor Saturday I'll explain a little better what I mean, and could most likely give you a couple of "central locking straps" to use for it. :P

Is the first one a removable soft top!? :P